hayfield Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I bought this up on one of the earlier versions of RMweb but cannot find it. I bought a partly made one of these locos off eBay (out of focus photo and described as a Prairie tank loco) whilst I was trying to buy a Wills Prairie ( this was the box it came in), still nothing lost as its a stunning loco, had a Hornby A3 chassis and motor but lacked valve gear and cylinders. Overtime I sourced a set of cylinders and found a Langley motion etch again on eBay Time has come to do something with it, but what ? Firstly the motion scares me to death !! Do I build it with the Hornby chassis, but I hate their wheels and motor. I do have an unused MRRC 5 pole replacement if I take this option I am about to start building a small BLT based on Bodmin in preservation era to EM gauge standards, should I attempt to use a Comet A3 chassis ? I know its a bit out but so is the chassis it was designed for Or do I try and alter a more modern A3 chassis and accept the valve gear as it is ? What ever I do its a loco I want to build !! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted January 24, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2018 I am unqualified to offer advice on your construction dilemma, but believe that this is a very worthwhile exercise, as the prototype seems to have done exactly what it said on its tin. Hamilton Ellis, who was at Westminster School in the era, records that the "tank engine could walk away with one of the heaviest business trains, or with the heavily-loaded Saturday 'Belle', which by 1921 sometimes reached 400 tons." Their inevitable demise on electrification to Brighton, and subsequent rebuilding into quasi-N15s was a bit of a let-down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Ian Thanks, the model does weigh a bit, so could emulate the real thing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) That reminds me I have one stored away somewhere, I raided it, and took the Mashima 1628 motor for summat else years ago. I'd fabricated a rigid chassis using Gibson side frames, used the Langley motion with Romford driving wheels, and Gibson bogie wheels. Had it for 20 odd years, and never fully completed, I believe it's still in unlined, un-numbered olive green. Thought I'd just say - but I must try and finish it, looking forward to your pics?? Edit- Well curiosity got the better of me, the 4-6-4T see's the light of day for the first time in about 20 yrs, plus a thin coating of dust !! Edited January 24, 2018 by bike2steam 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium it's-er Posted January 24, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2018 Goodness - that is one impressive locomotive. If I were you, I would install it as one of the best of my fleet! It certainly shouldn't just be put away again for another year, never mind 20! John S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 That reminds me I have one stored away somewhere, I raided it, and took the Mashima 1628 motor for summat else years ago. I'd fabricated a rigid chassis using Gibson side frames, used the Langley motion with Romford driving wheels, and Gibson bogie wheels. Had it for 20 odd years, and never fully completed, I believe it's still in unlined, un-numbered olive green. Thought I'd just say - but I must try and finish it, looking forward to your pics?? Edit- Well curiosity got the better of me, the 4-6-4T see's the light of day for the first time in about 20 yrs, plus a thin coating of dust !! 27048290_1835554299802763_662510351_o.jpg They are stunning locos, perhaps Gibson frames are the way to go, how hard was the valve gear please. Like your loco you must finish it !! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) By the pic you can see the loco roof is out of position, an old habit of mine, last thing to do, not securing the roof until the crew have been 'installed'. The valve gear was a little tricky, but not as bad as I was expecting, the marine style big-end is bushed for the crank-pin. It was part of the collection when I was modelling Southern, but had a change of mind about 20 years ago - then the rtr manufacturers started making more Southern stuff, and I did wonder whether I'd made the right choice, but it did stop me spending to much money !? But 'OO-Works' have been making a D15 - it is sooo tempting, as that is one class I do like. edit, - I can't remember, but I think the coupling rods are Gibson universal, along with the eccentric rod??? Edited January 24, 2018 by bike2steam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Thanks Understand about half of what you have said I like LSWR Southern Locos , but this is such a brute, loads of SR stuff about especially from Southeastern Finecast Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 24, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) I bought this up on one of the earlier versions of RMweb but cannot find it. I bought a partly made one of these locos off eBay (out of focus photo and described as a Prairie tank loco) whilst I was trying to buy a Wills Prairie ( this was the box it came in), still nothing lost as its a stunning loco, had a Hornby A3 chassis and motor but lacked valve gear and cylinders. Overtime I sourced a set of cylinders and found a Langley motion etch again on eBay Time has come to do something with it, but what ? Firstly the motion scares me to death !! Do I build it with the Hornby chassis, but I hate their wheels and motor. I do have an unused MRRC 5 pole replacement if I take this option I am about to start building a small BLT based on Bodmin in preservation era to EM gauge standards, should I attempt to use a Comet A3 chassis ? I know its a bit out but so is the chassis it was designed for Or do I try and alter a more modern A3 chassis and accept the valve gear as it is ? What ever I do its a loco I want to build !! Markits do 5/32" axles so you can fit their wheels without needing to bush the Tri-ang/Hornby chassis or the gear wheel, if that helps you decide. John Edited January 24, 2018 by Dunsignalling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Thanks Understand about half of what you have said I like LSWR Southern Locos , but this is such a brute, loads of SR stuff about especially from Southeastern Finecast Sorry for rabbiting on, what half don't you understand, I'll try to reword it !?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Sorry for rabbiting on, what half don't you understand, I'll try to reword it !?! Marine style big end? & eccentric rod Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) Marine style big end? & eccentric rod Thanks Although the diagram below shows the American Bakers valve gear, it is similar to Walschearts, and shows clearly a 'marine'* style big-end on the connecting rod ( main rod) at the 'main pin' ( driven crank pin ). A popular thing with some loco designers of bigger outside cylinder locos towards the end of the 19th/ early 20th century. The eccentric rod is the same as shown. edit - * Called 'marine' as it's a common system used in ship's connecting rod to crankshaft bearings. Edited January 24, 2018 by bike2steam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 Thanks, now I know and its the bit which worries me Markits sell them at about a tenner per pair, now I know why I like the Q and Q1's 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I used the Hornby chassis fitted with Romford/Markits wheels and powered by a MW005 motor. Run as well as anything else. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted January 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 25, 2018 Here's one in olive green; it is all wrong for my layout - it would have been rebuilt by then - but it looks very chunky and powerful so I haven't got the will to dispose of it! It runs but I can't tell you much about the construction as I bought it 2nd hand a long time ago. There is another big chap behind - an LB&SCR J2 from an Ace Products kit. Tony 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanks both of you for the photos, both splendid models, the kit came with plenty of info, both the instructions and the Railway Modeller article from the mid 90's. The kit is partly built with only the footplate and main body parts stuck together, there iis a bit of surplus glue on the joints so I may try and un-assemble it and start to solder it back again, especially as the front part of the footplate has become loose. I do not know if I ever would be happy with the Hornby chassis, unless I remove the large casting in the cab and alter the wheels, also I do have a supply of MRRC 5 pole motors. But if I start to tinker too much I might as well build it to EM gauge standards, is it worth stretching out the Hornby chassis ?. I do have a Jamieson A3 chassis kit, so in theory I could use this along with the Hornby cylinders and rear bracket for the motion, I guess stretching it to EM is not much harder than building it to 00 gauge. On the other hand I could sell this on eBay and buy a set of Gibson Mainframes designed for these kits and coupling rods, I know these can be ordered with either axle holes or hornblock slots, but there is a distinct lack of detail with these frames, also I guess I would have to find a way of fabricating a rear motion bracket. Could there be another option using either Comet's or Southeastern Finecasts A3 chassis (SEF also do an A4 chassis which would be best). I guess without too much trouble both of these will fit, might be a tad easier to build and has the option of coming with brake gear (though this could introduce additional issues) Other than using the Hornby cylinder block is there a better option available ? Going completely the other way, buying an old Hornby Chassis with all the motion(mine has none), change the cylinders and motor, remove the rear block. Job done for the time being and just rebuild the body ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) If you use the Langley cylinders, and motion, and make a 'cock-up', I've always got a spare set. It was amongst a mass of 'odds, and ends' I picked up a few years ago when I had the shop ( well that makes it more than 12 years now!). A useful book ( if you aint got it);- https://www.amazon.co.uk/British-Baltic-Tanks-Railway-Monographs/dp/1872524435/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1516872482&sr=1-1&keywords=british+baltic+tanks Edited January 25, 2018 by bike2steam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanks for the heads up and offer, I have two pairs of plastic round cylinders, one on the chassis the other came with the motion. I am half of a mind just initially to put an A3 chassis on the loco but not going to pay £40 for a lump of Margate engineering, rather by a scale chassis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now