New Bachmann DMUs and BSI Couplings - how can I consist/connect older DMUs?

[hamish_barb]

Hi all,

 

With Bachmann's 2018 releases now announced, their was also the welcome addition of the Class 170 and the other DMUs also having functional BSI couplings that will allow multiple class 170s to be fitted together to form a Consist.

 

I already have the older class 170, 2 of them in fact, is there anyway I can form a consist with them with some modding? Has anyone successfully done this? Would rather pay a bit of money and get them modified, rather than £250 each for 2x new Cross Country 170s!

 

Thanks

Edited March 25, 2018 by hamish_barb

[simon b]

Without seeing one I couldn't say, but it's probably possible to retrofit the bsi couplings to the older models. 

 

Or do a chassis swap with the non driving cars, so put the newer unpowered  bsi chassis under an older vehicle and couple them that way. 

[SRman]

I am sort of hoping that Bachmann will produce the functional BSI couplings as spares, so I can add them to my classes 158/9/66/70 units. I have long had them on the back-burner with thoughts of using Kadee couplings between units, but the BSI ones would be even better, if they can be obtained.

[hamish_barb]

Thanks. I'm just wondering how much these mods will cost, as it may be worth selling my Class 170s now and recouping some money, as there's also the added expense of getting them DCC fitted.

[hamish_barb]

Would appreciate replies from anyone who has successfully carried out a consist mod to enable them to consist Class 158/159/166/170s etc together.

 

Thanks

[meld]

Would appreciate replies from anyone who has successfully carried out a consist mod to enable them to consist Class 158/159/166/170s etc together.

 

Thanks

Hi There,

 

as the new improved models with functioning BSI couplers have yet to de delivered from the manufacturer ( or the coupler listed as a spare part AFAIK ), then I doubt anyone has been able to try modify the older models with the new working BSI coupling to allow a consist that you are asking about.

 

However many people have, in the past, used non prototypical Kadee Knuckle couplers to allow models of modern diesel and electric units to be consisted to run in multiple.

 

Some people have added a dummy "electrical & air connections" box under mounted via the uncoupling trip pin and others just left it missing.

 

I did some lima 156 units and Hornby 142 units using standard length ( #5 ) and a long length ( #18 IIRC ) arm at alternate ends to allow ease of traversing the tighter than prototype curves most of us have to use ... and it was a bit of an experiment as to the exact distance I need to set the draft boxes on the underframes, but once done I used the same distance on every version of that model from each manufacturer. 

 

HTH

 

Meld

Edited March 26, 2018 by meld

[hamish_barb]

Hi There,

 

as the new improved models with functioning BSI couplers have yet to de delivered from the manufacturer ( or the coupler listed as a spare part AFAIK ), then I doubt anyone has been able to try modify the older models with the new working BSI coupling to allow a consist that you are asking about.

 

However many people have, in the past, used non prototypical Kadee Knuckle couplers to allow models of modern diesel and electric units to be consisted to run in multiple.

 

Some people have added a dummy "electrical & air connections" box under mounted via the uncoupling trip pin and others just left it missing.

 

I did some lima 156 units and Hornby 142 units using standard length ( #5 ) and a long length ( #18 IIRC ) arm at alternate ends to allow ease of traversing the tighter than prototype curves most of us have to use ... and it was a bit of an experiment as to the exact distance I need to set the draft boxes on the underframes, but once done I used the same distance on every version of that model from each manufacturer. 

 

HTH

 

Meld

Thank you for your reply. In regards to the modification that you’ve mentioned, I don’t mind if the coupling is non prototypical, however, does this require any soldering/drilling etc into the chassis?

 

Thanks

[meld]

Hello,

 

To gauge the correct positioning of the Kadee drag box I stuck one in place with a dab of superglue making sure that the back of the coupling head was in line with the furthest part forward of the model ( on the 142's it was the moulded steps and the 156's the outer edge of the gangway and then carefully drilled through the mounting hole in the drag box and bolted it to the chassis ) and the other drag box was also located on the other vehicle from the set with a small dab of glue.

The two driving vehicles were then couple up cab to cab and then slowly and carefully run round all parts of the layout to see if it was clear everywhere. If not enough or to much gap was there between the vehicles, I just pinged the draft box off the other, 2nd, vehicle and moved it in board or outboard until I had the correct distance. I then repeated the drilling and holding process to mount permanently.

 

I had the ease of all of my conversions being plastic chassis, so the drilling was easy by hand.

 

If the 170 has a cast metal chassis yiu will need to use an electric drill and drill carefully with a bit of extra hand pressure.

 

Once you have the hole drilled, just secure with a nut and bolt as I've mentioned before.

 

No soldering .. the Kadee draft box is plastic and a small dab is glue is enough to hold the two pieces ( body and cover plate ) together.

 

HTH

 

Meld

[SRman]

Hello,

 

To gauge the correct positioning of the Kadee drag box I stuck one in place with a dab of superglue making sure that the back of the coupling head was in line with the furthest part forward of the model ( on the 142's it was the moulded steps and the 156's the outer edge of the gangway and then carefully drilled through the mounting hole in the drag box and bolted it to the chassis ) and the other drag box was also located on the other vehicle from the set with a small dab of glue.

The two driving vehicles were then couple up cab to cab and then slowly and carefully run round all parts of the layout to see if it was clear everywhere. If not enough or to much gap was there between the vehicles, I just pinged the draft box off the other, 2nd, vehicle and moved it in board or outboard until I had the correct distance. I then repeated the drilling and holding process to mount permanently.

 

I had the ease of all of my conversions being plastic chassis, so the drilling was easy by hand.

 

If the 170 has a cast metal chassis yiu will need to use an electric drill and drill carefully with a bit of extra hand pressure.

 

Once you have the hole drilled, just secure with a nut and bolt as I've mentioned before.

 

No soldering .. the Kadee draft box is plastic and a small dab is glue is enough to hold the two pieces ( body and cover plate ) together.

 

HTH

 

Meld

 

With Bachmann's old-style 3-car units (classes 159 and 166, and some of classes 158 and 170) the powered vehicle is the middle one - they have a metal chassis, while the non-powered driving coaches have plastic chassis. With their 2-car units, there's no avoiding the metal chassis on one of the cars. Even so, I have managed to get all fired up ready to start converting the driving ends to allow multiple operation (with Kadees), only to lose momentum and put them back into the 'too hard' basket again. I know it's not all that difficult, but it is too easy to find other projects that also need to be completed.

[MrB]

I've successfully fitted the new Bachmann operating BSI couplings to an old 158 set.

Fairly straightforward; -

remove the lower cowling,

file the chassis flat infront of the bogie, 

use a round file to make a longitudinal grove for the spring in the mechanism,

drilled 2x clearance holes to mount the coupling using 10BA screws and nuts,

Then reassemble.

I fitted them both to the powered cars and not the dummy ones

 

 

Regards

 

Roy 

[The Evil Bus Driver]

Looking good. Do you have a shot of the 'business end' the coupler?