7mm LMS 4F kit

[MarshLane]

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good, 7mm LMS 4F 0-6-0 kit please?

 

Skill level is idiot to beginner! I’m working through one of the Judith Edge NER bo-bo electric kits at the moment, but that is my first brass kit.

 

Any help or suggestions, appreciated.

 

Rich

[N15class]

I would seriously consider Jim's connoisseur kit.

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com

[Gilbert]

I have to agree re Connoisseur. My maiden loco project after a few wagons (Also Jim's) I did get help from a mate rolling the smokebox and I did use an ABC gear box to save problems as well. My second one will be better as I have a few better tools now.

 

 

 

[MarshLane]

Guys,

Thanks for that. I’d been looking around but missed that Connoisseur did a 4F. I think the instructions are downloadable on the site so shall go have a good read. I’d thought about getting some rollers for things like roofs and that -would you agree?

 

Gilbert - that looks good to me!

 

Rich

[Gilbert]

Firebox leaves a little bit to be desired on close exam! Boiler was rolled in the kit IIRC but yes - I've bought some rolling bars and a good folding tool is essential. Roof is whitemetal casting I think as are buffers etc but all "good enough". One tip - I packed the boiler with lead before assembly to improve running.

Edited April 25, 2018 by Gilbert

[MarshLane]

Thanks Gilbert.

 

Any recommendations for a folding tool - im all quite new to this!  I'll bear the boiler comment in mind, although I suspect liquid led in some places may come in, as im hoping to put various DCC gubbins in the boiler!

Firebox leaves a little bit to be desired on close exam! Boiler was rolled in the kit IIRC but yes - I've bought some rolling bars and a good folding tool is essential. Roof is whitemetal casting I think as are buffers etc but all "good enough". One tip - I packed the boiler with lead before assembly to improve running.

 

Looks good to me!  If I can get anywhere near that standard id be happy!

 

Rich

Edited April 25, 2018 by MarshLane

[84B Oxley]

 

_{Would definitely endorse the Connoisseur one, mine went together like a dream, a very enjoyable build.The instructions are very good too. I have also fitted working inside motion to mine. Even if you don't make the motion work, it's a rather large gap under the boiler to leave unfilled.}

 

_Jeff

[MarshLane]

_{44358 Sykes Bridge0014.JPG}

 

_{Would definitely endorse the Connoisseur one, mine went together like a dream, a very enjoyable build.The instructions are very good too. I have also fitted working inside motion to mine. Even if you don't make the motion work, it's a rather large gap under the boiler to leave unfilled.}

 

_Jeff

 

 

Superb build Jeff.  Thanks for the comment. Was the inside motion included or did you scratch build it?

 

Rich

[Gilbert]

I had some simple home made bars but I have a ?medium size "hold and fold" plus another longer bar

[84B Oxley]

Superb build Jeff.  Thanks for the comment. Was the inside motion included or did you scratch build it?

 

Rich

Rich

Thanks. The valve gear is by Laurie Griffin, not cheap or easy to fit but worthwhile.

Jeff

[M51625]

+1 for the connoisseur kit.

 

Have just built his J39 kit, good quality etches, good castings and surplus of the smaller ones 'just in case' instructions are well laid out with text and exploded diagrams, i found the fit of the parts to be excellent.

 

As Jim says you can always add detail as he describes his kits as basic and i would deem them ideal for beginners, i did, my first etched kit was his BR standard brake van back in 1996.

 

If you can, go to a show and have a chat with Jim from connoissuer, very approachable and will help you out with lots of advise and suggestions and no doubt have kit open to show you whats in the box.

 

No connection with connoisseur just a regular customer and considering a 4F or a G5 next, now have a bogie bolster C from his range to tackle, hope it rains this weekend.

 

cheers.

[MarshLane]

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I think i’ll go with the 4F from Connoisseur- and keep this thread going as a workbench style topic, as I’ll no doubt get stuck at some point!

 

Rich

[Gilbert]

Bogie bolster is also excellent!

[Sandy Harper]

Rich

A length of Aluminium angle screwed down on your bench makes a good folding tool as does two lengths clamped in your vice.

 

Be very careful when using liquid lead. In certain cases it can be very destructive if used incorrectly. Sheet lead (roofing flashing) cut to size and shape, and glued in place, can be just as effective.

 

Regards

 

Sandy

[Izzy]

+1 for the connoisseur kit.

 

Have just built his J39 kit, good quality etches, good castings and surplus of the smaller ones 'just in case' instructions are well laid out with text and exploded diagrams, i found the fit of the parts to be excellent.

 

As Jim says you can always add detail as he describes his kits as basic and i would deem them ideal for beginners, i did, my first etched kit was his BR standard brake van back in 1996.

 

If you can, go to a show and have a chat with Jim from connoissuer, very approachable and will help you out with lots of advise and suggestions and no doubt have kit open to show you whats in the box.

 

No connection with connoisseur just a regular customer and considering a 4F or a G5 next, now have a bogie bolster C from his range to tackle, hope it rains this weekend.

 

cheers.

 

 

Guys,

Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. I think i’ll go with the 4F from Connoisseur- and keep this thread going as a workbench style topic, as I’ll no doubt get stuck at some point!

 

Rich

 

Here's a couple of shots of locos I built for a friend from Jim's kits. I made quite a few others for myself, J15/J67/F7/tram etc and would say they are probably some of the best kits I have constructed in any scale in that they go together properly without issue. Yes, you can always 'improve' them by replacing any of the castings with alternative ones ( I found the main ones to be quite good enough for me although I usually made replacement sprung buffers and bufferbeam hoses etc), and add extra detail as you feel neccesary but there is no tussle with trying to get the basic parts to fit. The G5 & 4F were left for my friend to finish off, coaling, crew and other small details to taste, I just did the main construction and painting while the F7 is mine in it's raw state.

 

I don't think anybody regrets getting any of Jim's kits, why would they!

 

cheers,

 

Izzy

 

 

 

[N15class]

Rich

A length of Aluminium angle screwed down on your bench makes a good folding tool as does two lengths clamped in your vice.

 

Be very careful when using liquid lead. In certain cases it can be very destructive if used incorrectly. Sheet lead (roofing flashing) cut to size and shape, and glued in place, can be just as effective.

 

Regards

 

Sandy

Just a little more on liquid lead. Use epoxy resin to fix. PVA will react in the long term.

I often cast lead or white metal weights. With lead cast is more dense than sheet do casting can actually add more weight.

Edited April 29, 2018 by N15class

[MarshLane]

Evening guys,

 

Rich

A length of Aluminium angle screwed down on your bench makes a good folding tool as does two lengths clamped in your vice.

 

Be very careful when using liquid lead. In certain cases it can be very destructive if used incorrectly. Sheet lead (roofing flashing) cut to size and shape, and glued in place, can be just as effective.

 

Regards

 

Sandy

 

Thanks Sandy.

 

Im having trouble in my mind visualising how fixed aluminium angle would work?  Im probably just being thick tho!  Thanks for the info on liquid lead, didn't know about that.  We really should have a modellers workbook, with all these little hints and tips in!

 

Here's a couple of shots of locos I built for a friend from Jim's kits. I made quite a few others for myself, J15/J67/F7/tram etc and would say they are probably some of the best kits I have constructed in any scale in that they go together properly without issue. Yes, you can always 'improve' them by replacing any of the castings with alternative ones ( I found the main ones to be quite good enough for me although I usually made replacement sprung buffers and bufferbeam hoses etc), and add extra detail as you feel neccesary but there is no tussle with trying to get the basic parts to fit. The G5 & 4F were left for my friend to finish off, coaling, crew and other small details to taste, I just did the main construction and painting while the F7 is mine in it's raw state.

 

I don't think anybody regrets getting any of Jim's kits, why would they!

 

cheers,

 

Izzy

 

 

Izzy,

Those are superb, you've done a grand job with them! Bet your friend was very pleased!  Thanks for the background and the comments, much appreciated.

 

 

Just a little more on liquid lead. Use epoxy resin to fix. PVA will react in the long term.
I often cast leaf or white metal weights. With lead cast is more dense than sheet do casting can actually add more weight.

 

 

Leaf metal is not something I've come across, what is the difference between leaf and white metal?  Interesting the comment that casting can actually add more weight.  Never thought of that.

 

Rich

[Sandy Harper]

Thanks Sandy.

 

Im having trouble in my mind visualising how fixed aluminium angle would work?  Im probably just being thick tho!

 

Rich

Basically a length of 1"x1" angle cut in two equal parts. Size will depend on what you want to bend. Drill two holes in one face and screw it down to your bench or a length of MDF . To bend a brass etch, loosen the screws slightly, place the brass under the angle and with a thin length of steel (old steel rule) bend the brass up to form a 90 degree angle.

Alternatively, place the two lengths in a vice (back to back) place the brass etch between the two, tighten in the vice  and bend along the half etched line using a length of wood or metal.

 

Regards

Sandy

[MarshLane]

Thanks Sandy,

Yes of course, makes perfect sense now!

 

Cheers

Rich