Danemouth - a Seaside BLT

[Andrew P]

Thanks Dave,

 

Here's an update, then:

Danemouth5 4.png

[Click to enlarge]

 

These are just my ideas of how things could work:

• I've shown the platform(s) more clearly.
• Best estimate of the size and layout of the Bachmann station buildings, showing how they might fit into the space.
• Best estimate of the Oxford Rail Goods shed showing how it might fit on, helping to block the view of the tricky back corner while allowing the station buildings to be seen.
• End loading at the end of the run round loop.
• The station buildings, goods shed, end loading and short peninsular goods platform make a neat little complex - the "business end" of the station.
• Curved backscene inserts so you don't see a corner in the sky.
• Suggested optional extension of the goods shed line through the backscene to allow wagons to be pushed through the goods shed. Tree disguises exit through backscene. (It would be very easy to build but is it a step too far? If so, you just have to pretend that you can push wagons and vans fully through the shed...)
• Suggested small extension to scenic area above fiddle yard, something like Ray H suggested, so that the scenic break doesn't take up valuable space. Fixed to middle baseboard. This helps give the bridge/tunnel some depth so that the fiddle yard is hidden better when looking at the scenic area.
• Angled road overbridge for more natural scenic break and to improve viewing.
• Shortened the bottom goods siding and the headshunt to match the fiddle yard capacity.

 

Edit: P.S. You should be able to fit three coaches comfortably on the main platform, looking at the 1ft grid squares.

Excellent Dave, the only thing I would move is the Signal Cabin maybe, but at the  end of the day, it's your Layout, I do love the curve now, it looks  so much better.

[Danemouth]

Andy,

 

My logic in positioning the Signal Box was that it was convenient for loco crews to hand over the single line token when entering the bay, main platform or goods yard and the signalman would not need to cross tracks.

 

Regards,

 

Dave

[Andrew P]

Andy,

 

My logic in positioning the Signal Box was that it was convenient for loco crews to hand over the single line token when entering the bay, main platform or goods yard and the signalman would not need to cross tracks.

 

Regards,

 

Dave

That makes more sense Dave.

[The Johnster]

i agree about the curve, very convincing and it gives the layout a bit of character, but I am going to throw my hat in for the signalbox debate; I think it would have been placed on the other side of the running lines, bottom row square 6 from the left by the double slip.  This is convenient for the token handovers, with perhaps a walkway provided from the bottom of the signalbox steps for the signalman to position himself safely for the task.  This seems to me the best position because it gives the signalman the best lines of sight and view of the operations, and he can be in visual contact with the platform and yard staff.  

 

You've room in your fiddle yard for 2 more short roads, enough for autos or railcars, and my feeling about this is 'why wouldn't you'.  There is never enough fiddle yard space on any layout, ever!

Edited May 28, 2018 by The Johnster

[Danemouth]

i agree about the curve, very convincing and it gives the layout a bit of character, but I am going to throw my hat in for the signalbox debate; I think it would have been placed on the other side of the running lines, bottom row square 6 from the left by the double slip.  This is convenient for the token handovers, with perhaps a walkway provided from the bottom of the signalbox steps for the signalman to position himself safely for the task.  This seems to me the best position because it gives the signalman the best lines of sight and view of the operations, and he can be in visual contact with the platform and yard staff.  

 

You've room in your fiddle yard for 2 more short roads, enough for autos or railcars, and my feeling about this is 'why wouldn't you'.  There is never enough fiddle yard space on any layout, ever!

 

There is only one running line, the other going through the scenic break is the headshunt, an idea given to me by Brian R, Placing it where you suggest means he has to cross the headshunt to get to the single line for token exchange

 

Cheers,

 

Dave

[Danemouth]

Well, I have bought or ordered all the track and other bits and pieces needed for Danemouth.

 

Went to L & B and was able to p-ex coaches etc. that are no longer needed for Danemouth together with my old Hornby 3 rail stuff that has been put in the attic since we moved in 20 year ago.

 

All the track, fishplates and Metcalfe platform kits were purchased but they were short of three BH points - just ordered them from Track Shack.  I left a small and a large Prairie to have sound chips fitted.

 

I had a look at the Oxford Rail Station Building - I am going to buy it and p-ex the existing Highley Building. The Goods Shed isn't released as yet but I aim to use that in the fullness of time.

 

I will be re-using the Cobalt motors so some bits and pieces have been ordered from Gaugemaster to re-fettle them together with a 40 watt iron

 

So I'm on my way

 

Dave

[NHY 581]

Excellent news Dave.

 

There's nothing like having a loco for Christmas and playing with it on Christmas day......and what better test track than Danemouth........

 

 

Rob.

Edited May 29, 2018 by NHY 581

[Danemouth]

Today the three bullhead points were delivered from the IOM - what brilliant service!

 

I've also exchanged the Bachmann Highley Station for the Oxford Rail GWR station which will allow me to extend the bay by a few inches.

 

I've also got the cork from L & B - 3' by 2' sheets unwrapped for less than £8 each. I need to get a couple of aerosols of Wickes Floor Adhesive to stick it down.

 

Things are starting to move.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave

[St Enodoc]

Today the three bullhead points were delivered from the IOM - what brilliant service!

 

I've also exchanged the Bachmann Highley Station for the Oxford Rail GWR station which will allow me to extend the bay by a few inches.

 

I've also got the cork from L & B - 3' by 2' sheets unwrapped for less than £8 each. I need to get a couple of aerosols of Wickes Floor Adhesive to stick it down.

 

Things are starting to move.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave

Dave, PVA works fine for cork in my experience.

[Danemouth]

Dave, PVA works fine for cork in my experience.

 

I've used the spray adhesive on all the previous versions of Danemouth but I may well give PVA a try. The trouble with the spray is that you don't have any opportunity to reposition slightly if you don't get it in the correct place.

 

Many Thanks,

 

Dave

[Andrew P]

I've used the spray adhesive on all the previous versions of Danemouth but I may well give PVA a try. The trouble with the spray is that you don't have any opportunity to reposition slightly if you don't get it in the correct place.

 

Many Thanks,

 

Dave

I've used both, but on full 1ft square Cork Tiles. As you quite rightly say, with the spay there is no second chance, but in contrast I found that when I wanted to remove some PVA stuck tiles from the board, even after a couple of Months the PVA was still wet and had not stuck the tile down in the centre, probably due to lack of air.

[Danemouth]

Well all of the track is here and ready to go

 

 

The first step will be to modify the Code 75 points for the fiddleyard. I've always modified points to ensure no problems with the Panniers but now I find it doubly important with sound in several locos.

 

Once this is done I will start laying cork and track.

 

Regards to you all,

 

Dave

[Harlequin]

Well all of the track is here and ready to go

 

DSC16573.jpg

 

The first step will be to modify the Code 75 points for the fiddleyard. I've always modified points to ensure no problems with the Panniers but now I find it doubly important with sound in several locos.

 

Once this is done I will start laying cork and track.

 

Regards to you all,

 

Dave

What modifications are you going to make to the code 75 points?

[sjrixon]

I've medium radius code 75 points, one pannier, and no issues.. No sound either.. I'm intrigued to find out what you are going to do.

[Danemouth]

On every incarnation of Danemouth I have made alterations to points so that electrical continuity does not rely on the switch rails making contact. For points have a look at

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/125265-peco-turnout-help-dcc/?hl=%2Bpeco+%2Bpoint

 

Just the picture in the first post. I cut the two internal links "A" and solder two links at "B" - there is already a gap in the webbing. That's it.

 

For the three way point it's even easier. Turn the point over and there is a gap in the webbing about halfway where you can see all six rails.I solder a link between the three on the left and then a separate link between the three on the right making sure these links come nowhere near each other!

 

I have found that having made these changes I get reliable running at slow speeds with 0-6-0s

 

I don't modify the double slip.

 

The new Bullhead points being Unifrog need no modification nor do they need any insulated rail joiners. I will be connecting the frog wire to ensure maximum reliability.

 

I will say that the new Bullhead joiners look extremely small and fiddly.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

[NHY 581]

Dave, can I ask, does this mod with the three way work for both DC and DCC?

 

I have struggled with a PECO three way before on DC, hence the query.

 

 

Rob

[Danemouth]

Dave, can I ask, does this mod with the three way work for both DC and DCC?

 

I have struggled with a PECO three way before on DC, hence the query.

 

 

Rob

 

Very sorry Rob, I don't have a clue!

 

I certainly found it helps on DCC having forgotten to do it on one, and after painting the point had plenty of opportunity for colourful cursing,

 

Regards,

 

Dave

[sjrixon]

It does help with dc and dcc. But you need a switch on the point motor.

 

I did the same on my points. You are making sure there is a good connection, so worth the effort.

Edited May 31, 2018 by sjrixon

[Danemouth]

It does help with dc and dcc. But you need a switch on the point motor.

 

I did the same on my points. You are making sure there is a good connection, so worth the effort.

 

Scott,

 

Indeed you do. I will freely admit to using a Frog Juicer on three way points and double slips, using any spare ways on the juicer for nearby points. The Cobalt motors have built in switches which are reliable and I use those switches for the remaining points.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave

[Andrew P]

Dave, can I ask, does this mod with the three way work for both DC and DCC?

 

I have struggled with a PECO three way before on DC, hence the query.

 

 

Rob

As Scott says above it's fine in DC, in fact I cant see why people worry about whether it's DC or DCC, with Live frog Points I always wire them up as Dave is doing. I does need a switch either in the Motor or manually but it does / can improve slow running on 0-6-0 Loco's.

[NHY 581]

Ah!

 

Now I use pokey finger point actuation so should the three way work as an insulfroggy ?

 

 

 

 

Sorry to be dim but I ended up not using three way points on a DCC kayout because I could not fathom things out.

 

Hence why I now keep things very simple indeed. DC and pokey finger points.

 

 

Rob.

Edited May 31, 2018 by NHY 581

[sjrixon]

I've got a single slip and just used the motor switching, worked fine.

[sjrixon]

The code 100 needs a switch to operate the polarity switching. I'm not sure on the code 75 version.

[Danemouth]

Ah!

 

Now I use pokey finger point actuation so should the three way work as an insulfroggy ?

 

 

 

 

Sorry to be dim but I ended up not using three way points on a DCC kayout because I could not fathom things out.

 

Hence why I now keep things very simple indeed. DC and pokey finger points.

 

 

Rob.

 

Rob,

 

That's precisely the reason I ended up using a frog juicer (which only works with DCC AFAIK) I then just feed the point from the toe.

 

Also I double check that the four rails coming off the frogs have IRJs - having almost mucked things up one one occasion

 

Dave

[Harlequin]

The code 100 needs a switch to operate the polarity switching. I'm not sure on the code 75 version.

Code 100 electrofrog and code 75 electrofrog are electrically identical. Same for insulfrogs.