Humbrol enamel matt coat.

[1bobmeyer]

I put Humbrol weathering powers on a locomotive I then sprayed it with Humbrol enamel matt coat and all the powders disappeared! Should I have used acrylic matt coat spray? Any suggestions?

[Foxley]

I put Humbrol weathering powers on a locomotive I then sprayed it with Humbrol enamel matt coat and all the powders disappeared! Should I have used acrylic matt coat spray? Any suggestions?

 

You will find this with any powders/varnish.

 

Applying weathering powders can be tricky - really you should overstate the amount you use, because coating over them will make them subdued. You don't have to put a coat over your powders, but it's probably recommended if you're going to handle it regularly.

 

If you want to coat, it's best to varnish first with gloss. Then use your powders and fix them in place with white spirit. Build up to what you want, and then varnish over the top with Matt.

 

Hope that helps

[bgman]

I put Humbrol weathering powers on a locomotive I then sprayed it with Humbrol enamel matt coat and all the powders disappeared! Should I have used acrylic matt coat spray? Any suggestions?

 

 

May I suggest that you pay a visit to Robs thread, its definitely worth looking through and should help with your question.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92366-tales-from-the-dining-room/

 

G

[brossard]

I've always used Testors Dullcote and Glosscote when finishing.  I think it makes for a professional looking job. 

 

John

[The Johnster]

Rob's work with powders is as good as it gets, and his methods clearly work!  My own weathering methods are completely different, and more suited to my skill levels; I have a wash of weathering muck made up from various matt acrylics watered down which I apply liberally, working it in to gaps between planks and joints, and wipe off immediately.  The amount I wipe off determines how heavily the item is weathered; crude but effective.  This method has the advantage that I can build up layers of dirt to the effect I want, making sure that areas that must be a little cleaner (wiped numbers, windows on NPCCS) are kept wiped.  Wipe the mix downwards from the cantrail; this will give the correct rain streaked effect and concentrate the muck lower down the side of the vehicle.

 

I do not use rattlecan spray paints, and everything is applied by brush.  But a spray acrylic matt varnish is used to prepare the surface and give a key to the wash.  

 

I have 3 tropical fish food containers of different shades of weathering gunge mix, one of which is darker than most, as I think this is suitable for a layout set in a coal mining village; the mineral wagons and locos involved in this traffic should, in my view, be noticeably darker than 'normal' brake block dust weathering.  

 

I can see the problem with spray varnish on top of powders being that the force of the spray physically blows the carefully applied powders away, and I would suggest using a watered down acrylic spray mix in a hand operated sprayer, the type you can buy for next to nowt in a garden centre; this will allow you some control over the strength of the spray, and if the nozzle clogs, it is easy to clean and cheap to replace.  You also have some control over the fineness of the spray as well.

[brossard]

I would add that I usually don't spray varnish over powdered surfaces.  However, for flat surfaces, like loco tanks, that are handled and show fingermarks, I spray Dullcote on them.

 

John

[rob D2]

The alternate would be to mix weathering powders with a medium as demonstrated in humbrol videos on you tube before sealing it.

 

I hate dull cote, always seems to set patchy. I use humbrols own and that seems fine .