Kato N Gauge Track/Points & DCC

[RateTheFreight]

Evening all,

 

Following on from my earlier post about blanking plugs I’m hoping someone can answer my query below. Please bear with me as I’m a complete novice to DCC.

 

I have a large selection of Kato N gauge Unitrack and points however have just purchased a Graham Farish DCC set (the highlander) complete with EZ controller.

 

I’d like to ideally mix the two but without complex wiring so am hoping folks can answer some questions below;

 

1) there’s a Kato part (20-045) that looks like it allows you to join Peco or non kato track to kato track. If I clipped the DCC wires to a Peco piece of track and then connected this to the rest of the Kato track would it work as expected?

 

2) re the Kato points, I believe I could operate them manually or power them by DC connecting them to the DC controller (the point switches clip to the side of the controller hence its presence); is this accurate? To limit complexity I’d be happy with either option instead of trying to install dcc decoders to them.

 

3) supposing 1 & 2 worked, in a scenario where say I had an oval of track and then some sidings connected it, could I using DCC operete one loco running on the oval and one loco shunting the sidings? I’m unsure how Kato points/dcc would work in this sense and whether the sidings in this scenario would be ‘live’?

 

Essentially what I’m trying to get at is whether I’d be wasting my time pursuing DCC using what I already have or whether I’d be better just sticking to DC.

 

The layouts not big (roughly 4.5ft x 2.5ft) but I’d ideally like two ovals with sidings off each and the ability to shunt within the complex of signings located off the inner loop.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Greg

[PaulRhB]

1) there’s a Kato part (20-045) that looks like it allows you to join Peco or non kato track to kato track. If I clipped the DCC wires to a Peco piece of track and then connected this to the rest of the Kato track would it work as expected?

 

2) re the Kato points, I believe I could operate them manually or power them by DC connecting them to the DC controller (the point switches clip to the side of the controller hence its presence); is this accurate?

 

3) supposing 1 & 2 worked, in a scenario where say I had an oval of track and then some sidings connected it, could I using DCC operete one loco running on the oval and one loco shunting the sidings? I’m unsure how Kato points/dcc would work in this sense and whether the sidings in this scenario would be ‘live’?

 

1. Yes

 

2. Yes, the point motor is powered separately so they can run off the dc controller with separate Dcc track power. Which points are easy to use with Dcc and changing to always live is covered here, and the conversion is on the Kato packaging too.

http://www.gaugemaster.com/articles/guides/kato_power_routing.html

 

3. If you’ve moved the screws to make the points always live then you can set the loco, eg address no4, to run round the loop and then select loco 5 etc and shunt while the other one keeps circling.

[Phil Bullock]

Agree with all Pauls comments - and would add that if you have problems with the power feed to your sidings you can always isolate them using Kato 24-816 insulated joiners and give them a separate power feed. Dont forget to include a headshunt to keep your shunt moves off the running lines!

 

Phil

[PaulRhB]

You can also feed the dcc to the track by chopping the plug off a kato power track K20-041 lead, or the joiners K24-818 with power lead, and just connect that to your dcc controller.

[RateTheFreight]

Thanks all that’s really positive news!

 

I’ll get experimenting with layouts this weekend.

 

Greg

[Phil S]

As a legislation complying commercial product - would there be an interference suppression capacitor in the Kato DC/analogue power connector which would need removing for dcc use ???

[WIMorrison]

the suppression is fitted to the motor not the connection to the track, just like any other system

[Phil S]

the suppression is fitted to the motor not the connection to the track, just like any other system

Look at any commercial manufacturer's track power connector for analogue - eg Hornby and Roco - and you will find a suppression capacitor !!

THAT is why they sell a DIGITAL VERSION separately - which is without the capacitor.

It is 'only' home constructors who do not have the same constraints of regulations (in practice) who omit the suppression capacitors on analogue track feeds.

Even thought they (may) be of little benefit in analogue - they are provided ... and need to be removed before an ac (digital) signal is connected instead.

 

FYI - The Roco 'Next Generation' Sets include an 18Vdc SMPS - just as with digital, but apply it directly to the track (therefore via the analogue type Coax connector ) ... and the loco(s) are then controlled directly via Wifi - as with the Video Camera loco(s) - although the ICE may be an exception here ... The (NG) locos have a large 'stay alive' capacitor built in, and can alternatively operate on dcc.

(Buying these sets at reduced prices may be an economic way of buying replacement loco mechanisms  etc)

[PaulRhB]

Let’s not distract from the post subject with unnecessary complications. As it complies with the regs it may be in the power pack then. Kato use a unique connector, small version of the Tamiya style and as their track and controller are also used by Dapol to power their sets must have passed the relevant regs. There definitely is no capacitor in the leads and I use them with the connector chopped off for Dcc.

If you’re really bothered by it write to Dapol and Kato to ask.

Edited November 30, 2018 by PaulRhB