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The Larass branch of the MGWR - Irish 2mm finescale 10.5mm gauge


Argos
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A couple of hours at the workbench saw the pointwork finished off with the check rails soldered on and the PCBs all gapped (bet I've missed a section somewhere!). With that done a couple of tight spots were identified by running a six wheeled tender chassis through the assembly. These were gently teased out with the soldering iron (a great advantage of PCB soldered rail for point work).

 

Removing the assembled unit from the board then pealing off the templates after a year was quite satisfying.

 

pointwork4.jpg.a5c9936ec400bcfc44588d0d96b5a631.jpg

 

The baseboard has now been drilled for power feeds and point motor slots.

Despite careful planning I've still managed to get a cross beam in the way of one the tie bars so some thinking required.

pointwork5.jpg.f63ab6b4ddc8dbd7a862038218491712.jpg

Hopefully next weekend should see it all glued down

Edited by Argos
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16 hours ago, Argos said:

A couple of hours at the workbench saw the pointwork finished off with the check rails soldered on and the PCBs all gapped (bet I've missed a section somewhere!).

Now, before the track is glued down, is the time to double-check if you have any doubts on that score!

Edited by bécasse
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6 hours ago, bécasse said:

Now, before the track is glued down, is the time to double-check if you have any doubts on that score!

 

Absolutely, already checked, double checked and checked again, and will be checked once droppers are soldered on and again when glued down and at each stage until I'm watching the DCC controller flash for short as I connect it and switch it on.........

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I now lay track with d/s tape. It takes especially well on cork, not sure how well straight onto ply, but can still be lifted if problems arise. I usually wire up and run it for a while before attempting ballasting just to make sure.

 

Bob

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10 hours ago, Izzy said:

I now lay track with d/s tape. It takes especially well on cork, not sure how well straight onto ply, but can still be lifted if problems arise. I usually wire up and run it for a while before attempting ballasting just to make sure.

 

Bob

Connerburn track was laid (indeed built in situ), on double sided tape onto ply. That was in the early '70's and I was given dire warnings that it would not hold. Still as secure as the day it was laid! Admittedly nothing has run on it for probably 12+ years, but it did go to a good number of shows, including Warley and Abingdon. The latter in the under-bed locker of a motorhome, so wasn't exactly cosseted! 

 

Jim 

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On 02/05/2023 at 05:34, Argos said:

A couple of hours at the workbench saw the pointwork finished off with the check rails soldered on and the PCBs all gapped (bet I've missed a section somewhere!). With that done a couple of tight spots were identified by running a six wheeled tender chassis through the assembly. These were gently teased out with the soldering iron (a great advantage of PCB soldered rail for point work).

 

Removing the assembled unit from the board then pealing off the templates after a year was quite satisfying.

 

pointwork4.jpg.a5c9936ec400bcfc44588d0d96b5a631.jpg

 

The baseboard has now been drilled for power feeds and point motor slots.

Despite careful planning I've still managed to get a cross beam in the way of one the tie bars so some thinking required.

pointwork5.jpg.f63ab6b4ddc8dbd7a862038218491712.jpg

Hopefully next weekend should see it all glued down

Yours is nicer than mine. I too, enjoy fully soldered track. I’m attempting a double slip. IMG_4307.jpeg.c3f82a0289a31f4671748108b4627996.jpeg

Edited by VRBroadgauge
Can't spell.....
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Your trackwork looks fine to me Bruce – funnily enough, the more you make. the better you get.

 

Practice make progress.

 

Interesting use of vocabulary Bruce. Using words like attempt and try preprogrammes us for failure. (Translated they mean ‘I’ll have a go but I don’t think I can’). For years I told myself I’d never be able to make a single or double slip. I recently discovered I’d been lying to myself for 30 odd years. The first one I made had a few issues, so I threw it away and made a second, which was much better and usable. By the time I’ve made the other 10 or so I need I’ll be much better at them.

 

By the way, nothing wrong with your spelling, you spelt the wrong word correctly!🤣

 

ChrisB

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34 minutes ago, ShadowinLinby said:

Your trackwork looks fine to me Bruce – funnily enough, the more you make. the better you get.

 

Practice make progress.

 

Interesting use of vocabulary Bruce. Using words like attempt and try preprogrammes us for failure. (Translated they mean ‘I’ll have a go but I don’t think I can’). For years I told myself I’d never be able to make a single or double slip. I recently discovered I’d been lying to myself for 30 odd years. The first one I made had a few issues, so I threw it away and made a second, which was much better and usable. By the time I’ve made the other 10 or so I need I’ll be much better at them.

 

By the way, nothing wrong with your spelling, you spelt the wrong word correctly!🤣

 

ChrisB

 

Ah using the 2mm Force:

 

 

Simon

 

 

 

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When I started in 2FS (1969) I decided that the first piece of track work I would built, having never built any track, was to be a turnout, pcb sleepers, chairplates and plain rail - state-of-the-art for the time. I made a set of rudimentary gauges and drew a template consisting of two parallel straight lines and two parallel curved lines, each 9.42mm (or thereabouts) apart, having no knowledge whatsoever of proper turnout geometry. 

To my great surprise, it worked and is still in situ at the end of the run round on Connerburn! 

 

Onwards and upwards! 

 

Jim 

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11 minutes ago, Caley Jim said:

When I started in 2FS (1969) I decided that the first piece of track work I would built, having never built any track, was to be a turnout, pcb sleepers, chairplates and plain rail - state-of-the-art for the time. I made a set of rudimentary gauges and drew a template consisting of two parallel straight lines and two parallel curved lines, each 9.42mm (or thereabouts) apart, having no knowledge whatsoever of proper turnout geometry. 

To my great surprise, it worked and is still in situ at the end of the run round on Connerburn! 

 

Onwards and upwards! 

 

Jim 


I did much the same with the trackwork on the colliery Jim. Sometimes not knowing what you’re doing is a real advantage - there’s much less to worry about!

 

Jerry

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5 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

Ah using the 2mm Force:

 

 

Simon

 

 

 

Hmm... May the forth be with you? 

 

My first 2mm point was built in less than an hour with no jigs on a basic template. I just got stuck into some rail butchery with some files. 

It worked fine, so convinced me there was nothing to this point building malarkey. What was all the fuss about? 

 

 Sadly it was all downhill from there. I am hoping to be back on the uphill slope now. 

 

 

What I have learnt is that the throw it together approach can work, however if you want consistency a more structured approach is needed (and ultimately more satisfying). 

 

 

 

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14 hours ago, ShadowinLinby said:

Your trackwork looks fine to me Bruce – funnily enough, the more you make. the better you get.

 

Practice make progress.

True. With the amount of track that I'm proposing to build I'll be the antipodean Laurie Adams in no time....

Confidence in your own ability can be lacking sometimes (particularly when no support is forthcoming). If you don't make mistakes you don't learn anything.

I'm a big fan of the 2mm community because of the support and encouragement that is prevalent.

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