Best card?

[Sailor Charon]

Just to say that I used cereal boxes for mine. (N gauge). The one question is, how do you cut curves? I can figure out using a steel rule (preferably a nice flat one that hasn't been abused) for straight lines, but curves give me trouble. So much so that when I made the big overall roofs I quickly gave up. And using scissors just causes them to come out twisted. And no, putting them under something heavy didn't really flatten them.

[RhBBob]

Just to say that I used cereal boxes for mine. (N gauge). The one question is, how do you cut curves? I can figure out using a steel rule (preferably a nice flat one that hasn't been abused) for straight lines, but curves give me trouble. So much so that when I made the big overall roofs I quickly gave up. And using scissors just causes them to come out twisted. And no, putting them under something heavy didn't really flatten them.

 

I guess that the Tracksetter curves - now under Peco - are probably a good solution although you are obviously limited by the radii....or the number of curves you need to purchase to achieve a variety

 

Bob

[PhilJ W]

That's the type of card I use Cap'n and a great bit of advice about the blades they're so cheap but if I can add to it, remember to dispose of them carefully, they might be blunt to us but still very sharp.

I use a box cutter if I am cutting a lot of card. When I snap the blades off they go straight into a screw top plastic bottle, a fairly thick one is best such as a shampoo bottle.

[Chubber]

Just to say that I used cereal boxes for mine. (N gauge). The one question is, how do you cut curves? I can figure out using a steel rule (preferably a nice flat one that hasn't been abused) for straight lines, but curves give me trouble. So much so that when I made the big overall roofs I quickly gave up. And using scissors just causes them to come out twisted. And no, putting them under something heavy didn't really flatten them.

 

Sorry, I didn't pick up on this before.........

 

This works for larger circular curves............the end blade from snap-off knives has a hole in it

 

 

and this for small curves

 

http://www.wheelspin...e-Blades__91e1/

 

or as guides try

 

http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=french+curves&sqi=2&cid=12241788908748495907&ei=YqRFTduyAaO6wgWrofTMDg&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

 

 

Hope this helps

 

 

Doug

[Sailor Charon]

Sorry, I didn't pick up on this before.........

 

This works for larger circular curves............the end blade from snap-off knives has a hole in it

 

 

and this for small curves

 

http://www.wheelspin...e-Blades__91e1/

 

or as guides try

 

http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=french+curves&sqi=2&cid=12241788908748495907&ei=YqRFTduyAaO6wgWrofTMDg&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

 

 

Hope this helps

Doug

 

Thanks very much. One question, surely the compass cutter can't really be for cutting holes of 1 to 15 mm. (as it says) If only because it would have to be marked in tenths of a mm, which would be very hard to see.

[DaveyH]

I have just downloaded my first of these kits and wondered why the plans cannot be printed directly onto card?

 

There must be a reason, so can someone enlighten me please?

 

Thanks

[Sailor Charon]

I have just downloaded my first of these kits and wondered why the plans cannot be printed directly onto card?

 

There must be a reason, so can someone enlighten me please?

 

Thanks

 

Some of the sheets have bits for different thicknesses of card on them. But if everything on a sheet goes on the same thickness... I can't see why you couldn't print directly on to card. If your printer can handle it.

[Chubber]

I have just downloaded my first of these kits and wondered why the plans cannot be printed directly onto card?

 

There must be a reason, so can someone enlighten me please?

 

Thanks

 

I frequently do print the 'thin card' things straight onto Rymans 160 gms/sm card, although it is worth being careful to check its whiteness/do a test etc. I found that I have to increase the gamma setting very slightly to get the same effect as printing onto good paper.

 

Another good card is the 'Pollen' brand 210 gms/ms menu card, sold, strangely enough for restaurant menus, this is tough and very smooth.

 

Doug

[Chubber]

Thanks very much. One question, surely the compass cutter can't really be for cutting holes of 1 to 15 mm. (as it says) If only because it would have to be marked in tenths of a mm, which would be very hard to see.

 

Hi, SC, I don't think I have ever used the 'scale' bit, I generally use a ruler, then cut a test bit and 'bodgelate' from there. s I suffer from arthritic fingers I have pushed apiece of rubber tubing over the twiddling handle to make it easier to grip and turn.

 

Doug

[Scalescenes]

Thanks again Doug, that circle cutter is a great use for the jar of still sharp snap off blade ends I have sitting on my desk!!

[Mustermark]

I have just started doing Scalescenes after seeing the free sample mentioned in Model Rail.

 

I printed all my sheets onto full sheet label paper: Avery Ink Jet White Shipping Labels Full Sheet. And I get it from Staples in the USA.

 

The pack I use is number 8165 but this is Letter size and I assume in the UK it would be A4 size and have a different number, but that might help you locate it in Staples.

 

The printed label is pretty good thickness and is easy to cut, and the image seems not to smudge even if it gets a bit wet for a minute. The backing peels off easily (especially where there are diagonal cuts in the backing). So far I have stuck these self-adhesive sheets down on card without the need for glue or spray mount... both of which I have had problems with in the last. With glue the printed paper can get wrinkly if its too wet, and with spray mount you need the right sort to get good long-lasting adhesion (and the spraying is messy).

 

The self-adhesive labels seem just right in terms of stickiness (if you peel back off the label paper tears, suggesting that it is well stuck down). It's very convenient and no mess. A bit more expensive than paper and PVA glue though.

 

But I really like Trebor's idea of using Plasticard. I agree that is easier to use than cardboard and you can much more readily choose the thickness. Again, it is more expensive, I agree, but when you spent that much on the download and you're putting so much time in I think it might be worth the extra. I will give Plasticard a go next time. I checked and the self-adhesive sheet sticks really well to Plasticard.

[Phil Howe]

Keep an eye out for redundant ring binders.

 

At work, we've been having a bit of a clear-out, and improving the paperless-ness of the office. I managed to rescue loads of good quality files that were destined for the skip. The kind where the card is loose inside a thick plastic covering. A quick slice down the edges and I liberated quite a stack of lovely fine-grained grey board, not far off 2mm thick. Per file I got two bits larger than A4 and a narrow strip from the spine.

 

I like free stuff

 

Keep smilin'

 

Phil

[Chubber]

Keep an eye out for redundant ring binders.

 

At work, we've been having a bit of a clear-out, and improving the paperless-ness of the office. I managed to rescue loads of good quality files that were destined for the skip. The kind where the card is loose inside a thick plastic covering. A quick slice down the edges and I liberated quite a stack of lovely fine-grained grey board, not far off 2mm thick. Per file I got two bits larger than A4 and a narrow strip from the spine.

 

I like free stuff

 

Keep smilin'

 

Phil

 

Woteesed! Woteesed!

 

 

 

We all know about 'Packeto Cornoflako,' but think on, each packet has four, long, perfectly formed bends that make good corners, or roof-lines. Dividers for ring-binders, too, can make very useful material, and the better quality ones are lovely smooth stuff designed to be handled and thus quite tough. I imagine [being an 'OO' modeller] that they would be perfect for 'N' gauge models. A set of cut-out window frames, all the same colour with a door to match? Use a coloured divider....

 

Then, the inside of various pasta packets, dark to light brown, perfect for stone/wood effects with a few drawn lines for planks, as stone lintels, door-steps....

 

 

By carefully selecting appropriately formed corrugated cardboard you can, by soaking it in water for 5 minutes peel off the brown inner surface to produce a material which imitates large 'wave' asbestos sheets once popular for roofing.....

 

[tractionman]

I've also just started building Scalescenes structures using some 'free' ones in past issues of Hornby Magazine - it was great to be able to adapt the sheets to fit what I wanted to do, like convert the brick single-arch bridge into a double-arch bridge to make a scenic break! With a bit of weathering and vegetation added I am sure it will look fine.

 

I must be a bit of a cheap-skate though as I just used cut up bits of nappy boxes (2mm-ish), shoe boxes (1mm-ish), food cartons, and other bits of different thickness card found in my recycling box - but I am on a bit of an economy drive...

 

all the best,

 

Keith

[Phil Howe]

I must be a bit of a cheap-skate though as I just used cut up bits of ...

 

Cheap-skate? Nothing of the sort; that's just environmentally-responsible modelling.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[tractionman]

Cheap-skate? Nothing of the sort; that's just environmentally-responsible modelling.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

 

 

Ta Phil - yes, there's something quite satisfying about making a building out of stuff that's in my recycling bin!

 

I've just finished hacking about the free Scalescenes low-relief warehouse to make a scenic break for my c.1979 BR stabling-point layout - the spare bits of printed paper I have left over from this are already in my modelling box to be used for something else...

 

all the best,

 

Keith

[emac]

After chatting to DesA who recomended a cheap source of card for building was to visit a local picture framer and ask for some offcuts which I did and was offered a large parcel of off cuts for £2.00

I have used the card to make mock ups and templates for my present project

 

West Highland Station roof template

[mah644]

Having tried card kits before, I plan on again using .040 inch plastic card in lieu of 1mm card and a double thickness of it for the 2mm uses on the several Scalescenes kits I recently downloaded. Plastic card is particularly useful in those areas where stability and structural support is needed. The .040 cuts cleanly (with a fresh blade) and precisely when scribed and is easily glued. I mainly use an aerosol contact spray adhesive to secure paper to plastic and a thinned wood glue (applied with a narrow scrap of .040 card) for paper to paper. Has worked well in the past and, I hope, will continue to be useful in the future.

 

Best Wishes--Carl

[mah644]

Having tried card kits before, I plan on again using .040 inch plastic card in lieu of 1mm card and a double thickness of it for the 2mm uses on the several Scalescenes kits I recently downloaded. Plastic card is particularly useful in those areas where stability and structural support is needed. The .040 cuts cleanly (with a fresh blade) and precisely when scribed and is easily glued. I mainly use an aerosol contact spray adhesive to secure paper to plastic and a thinned wood glue (applied with a narrow scrap of .040 card) for paper to paper. Has worked well in the past and, I hope, will continue to be useful in the future.

 

Best Wishes--Carl

 

Priced the .040 plastic card yesterday and have an order of chip board (greyboard) coming in the mail. I'll use what plastic card I do have sparingly. Best -cgc

[Madcaravanner]

I must be REALLY lucky then

 

I have a Stationary supplier wholesale warehouse in my village so I buy A2 size sheets of card of varying thickness's as needed You will find from such a place that "Mounting" card is the ideal type coming in 1/2 & 3mm thickness's and in nice colours too generally I try to get browns and yellows but do occasionally buy white (£3+vat a sheet at 2mm)

 

As for cutting it I use the standard Swan Morton Scalpels #3 & #4 handles using a #24 blade on the #4 and a #11 or #15 on the #3 handle

BUT for long straight cuts I did acquire a good few years ago a Post Mortem knife and a hand full of blades ( when my local hospital shut down we the staff got first dibs to buy the stuff ) and of course I use a steel straight edge to guard against cutting ME

[Jon020]

Just starting with Scalescenes, having a go at the inspection pit before going further. Printed onto wilkos 80gsm paper (cheap but we had some) and coated with some humbrol acrylic varnish. Used 3M craft mount and stuck to the daler board I got from Hobby craft - the stuff CK referred to a few posts back - mine's white. However, this is just over 1mm think. One of the sheets is described as needing to be stuck to thick card,,, and as I'd not been able to find any I'd thought about two layers of the daler board, althoughthat'll give me about 3mm. Shoudl I try this or stick with a single sheet... Or, print the shete off again and try and find some 2mm thick card somewhere?

A complete novice seeking guidance...

Any thoughts????

thanks

Jon

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

Just starting with Scalescenes, having a go at the inspection pit before going further. Printed onto wilkos 80gsm paper (cheap but we had some) and coated with some humbrol acrylic varnish. Used 3M craft mount and stuck to the daler board I got from Hobby craft - the stuff CK referred to a few posts back - mine's white. However, this is just over 1mm think. One of the sheets is described as needing to be stuck to thick card,,, and as I'd not been able to find any I'd thought about two layers of the daler board, althoughthat'll give me about 3mm. Shoudl I try this or stick with a single sheet... Or, print the shete off again and try and find some 2mm thick card somewhere?

A complete novice seeking guidance...

Any thoughts????

thanks

Jon

 

For thick card i use the A3 sheets of photo mounting board available from the Range. £0.80 per sheet when i bought them way back. Come in a variety of colours and you might need to pick pastels if you have printed on 80 GSM paper as it is quite thin. 100 GSM is much better. Available at Smiths as is light card and loads of other goodies like cheap felt tip pens.

 

You might also be seeing a green tinge to the concrete. This is common and might require reprints in grayscale. the other way is to print and build regardless and tell all comers that this is actually Oolitic Wiffenstone cement. Very rare.