Popular Post Mophead45143 Posted January 9, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted January 9, 2020 (edited) Strangely a Diagram 1/107 21t Mineral Wagon has never been available in kit or rtr form in 4mm/00 gauge, despite kits existing in N and O. I also don't believe a kit exists in any scale for the 1973 rebuilds, which were similar in appearance to the Dia 1/107's. For the Dia 1/107's, I have seen varying methods of trying to create them in 4mm. These include either cutting down and hashing the existing parkside kit for a 24.5t mineral, or adding extra doors from an Airfix 16t mineral to a parkside 1977 re-bodied MDO. For the 1973 rebuilds, the only time I have ever seen one of these modeled is on the excellent EMGauge70s website (link to page: http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/model_omwb44.html), using scratch built bodies with donor doors. Having done a Dia 1/107 using one of the aforementioned methods, I wanted to do some 1973 rebuilds. For this I used the rivetted dia 1/110 as a basis, which is available from Parkside in 4mm. The first step was to VERY CAREFULLY cut off all the existing stanchions and rivet detail with a sharp knife on the kit before assembly. Once assembled, appropriately sized strips of plasticard were fixed to the tops and sides of the wagon. Apologies, I can't remember which size of plastic strip I used now! I did four models this way (see below, one is already painted and awaiting coal loads). As I intended to load these wagons I didn't bother removing rivet detail around the doors inside the wagon, but this would need to be done if running them empty. The other three wagons were then painted and given transfers. Followed by weathering: Finally, all four wagons were given suitable loads of ground up coal, ready for service in a mixed rake of minerals / hoppers behind a pair of Toton class 20's - whenever I get round to building my layout that is!!! Edited January 27, 2021 by Mophead45143 20 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM42 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 (edited) Now you've gone and done it. Just when I thought I could step away from the wagon obsession, you go and do this. Like the idea. This route hadn't occurred to me, mind you neither had a diag 107 troubled me for several years till now. I did look at grafting two 108s together but it just didn't look right.. Have you done anything to the end door or is it just the way the light hits the model? Now where is that book on wagons. Andy Edited January 9, 2020 by SM42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mophead45143 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 10 minutes ago, SM42 said: Now you've gone and done it. Just when I thought I could step away from the wagon obsession, you go and do this. Like the idea. This route hadn't occurred to me, mind you neither had a diag 107 troubled me for several years till now. I did look at grafting two 108s together but it just didn't look right.. Have you done anything to the end door or is it just the way the light hits the model? Now where is that book on wagons. Andy Just the way the light hits it in the first picture, the only thing that was done to the end door was cutting off the thin top and replacing it with a thicker horizontal 'welded' top. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM42 Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 I thought so but couldn't be sure. Reaching for my copy of Gamble's Opens and Hoppers, I opened at the page marked with an old instruction sheet and what should be there? A diag 107. Spooky eh? I think the 119 on the opposite page was my reason for marking the page in the first place. Looking at the picture though, you could get away with an unmodified door I think. Nice work, Nice rake of wagons,. Now where did I leave my mojo? Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mophead45143 Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 Glad you like them! The only reason I replaced the top part of the door was to keep it consistent with the tops on the wagon sides, but I get what you mean. Cameron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted January 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2020 I have a couple of Chivers MDV, would these have converted OK? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flood Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Chivers MDV have top doors whereas these don't. Apart from modifying that (and the removal of the vacuum brake gear) the Chivers models would be fine. I have two MDV built and one more in the packet. Such a shame that they are no longer available, 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 This nails one of the last gaps in the BR mineral story, and thanks for posting. With reference to the last posts, I've made a couple of the Chivers kits and they are excellent - I'm really sorry if they've gone. John. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted January 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Flood said: Chivers MDV have top doors whereas these don't. Apart from modifying that (and the removal of the vacuum brake gear) the Chivers models would be fine. I have two MDV built and one more in the packet. Such a shame that they are no longer available, I bought two about a year ago Aghh closed in August, if I had known I would have got a couple more. Looks like I will have to mod some Aifix components and cast some. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 I've done abouut 20 MDOs using modified Chivers' bodies. Rather than hack-up their underframes, and try to get rid of the SAB lever, I used the relevant Parkside chassis. I also fitted a couple with ex-LNER 21t hopper underframes; some of the rebuilt wagons used these chassis. The 'spare' underfames can find use under scratch-built stock, such as Coil A and B, and 21t Shockhoods. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM42 Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 My only reservation about the Chivers diag 119 conversion is that they are like gold dust now ( I didn't get hold of many when they were available) and it seems a shame to waste a perfectly good kit to make a diag 107 now, Converting something to replace the Chivers kit would be a lot more work. The OP has shown an easy route to let us have our 119s as Chivers intended as I think the Parkside kit may be around for a little longer. MJI, I take it you have built your Chivers kits so taking a mould is not possible. . Andy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted January 12, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 12, 2020 2 hours ago, SM42 said: My only reservation about the Chivers diag 119 conversion is that they are like gold dust now ( I didn't get hold of many when they were available) and it seems a shame to waste a perfectly good kit to make a diag 107 now, Converting something to replace the Chivers kit would be a lot more work. The OP has shown an easy route to let us have our 119s as Chivers intended as I think the Parkside kit may be around for a little longer. MJI, I take it you have built your Chivers kits so taking a mould is not possible. . Andy Just awaiting more models to make it worth spraying bauxite 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 Lovely modelling …………. I did a couple using spare PC32 body sides (with the single door) bought separately from Parkside, then butchered to produce double doored sides. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mophead45143 Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 Appreciate the kind comments! I should probably clarify as my Dia 1/107 title is a bit misleading. The models I have produced are supposed to represent the early 1970's rebuilds of earlier Dia 1/107 and 1/110 wagons using the existing 1/110 kit available from Parkside. As Southernman46 says, you can also use the Parkside PC32 kit as a basis. I did this to represent one of the as built welded Dia 1/107's. For this I used the side doors and end door from a spare Airfix 16t mineral kit. I find this method best represents the original welded 1/107's as the stanchions match the original BR build. For the method I have described in this thread, the plasticard is rectangular in cross section, and is a pretty good match for the simple stanchions used on the early 1970's rebuilds. Paul Bartlett's site is invaluable as always. For as built welded (1/107) examples, I would opt for either butchering a 1977 rebuild (Parkside PC32) or cutting down a 24.5 tonner (PC04). See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdo For the early 1970's rebuilds, you are probably best either scratch building the bodies or adopting my approach as described above. See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdorebuiltrenumber Cameron 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbos Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Here’s my attempt at a replated Dia 1/107 on the left and an early 1970s rebuild on the right. Both made using Parkside kits with additional doors from Dapol bodies (because they were very cheap), and brass brake levers. Brian. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Eaton Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 On 12/01/2020 at 12:20, Flood said: Such a shame that they are no longer available On 12/01/2020 at 14:51, SM42 said: are like gold dust now Gentlemen Are these the kits you desire https://www.five79.co.uk/RC473/ the Gold mine seems open again. Peter 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) On 14/01/2020 at 19:52, Mophead45143 said: Appreciate the kind comments! I should probably clarify as my Dia 1/107 title is a bit misleading. The models I have produced are supposed to represent the early 1970's rebuilds of earlier Dia 1/107 and 1/110 wagons using the existing 1/110 kit available from Parkside. As Southernman46 says, you can also use the Parkside PC32 kit as a basis. I did this to represent one of the as built welded Dia 1/107's. For this I used the side doors and end door from a spare Airfix 16t mineral kit. I find this method best represents the original welded 1/107's as the stanchions match the original BR build. For the method I have described in this thread, the plasticard is rectangular in cross section, and is a pretty good match for the simple stanchions used on the early 1970's rebuilds. Paul Bartlett's site is invaluable as always. For as built welded (1/107) examples, I would opt for either butchering a 1977 rebuild (Parkside PC32) or cutting down a 24.5 tonner (PC04). See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdo For the early 1970's rebuilds, you are probably best either scratch building the bodies or adopting my approach as described above. See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdorebuiltrenumber Cameron I was part way through the 24.5t cut-down to make an as-built 1/107 option as a try-out for multiple construction when Accurascale announced their 1/107 models. I want three and have ordered a pack. The conversion is definitely practical, though the door-end looks like being a bit of a faff. I'll probably get round to finishing the conversion after the Accurascale ones arrive if I think I can make it stand comparison. Back in the drawer for now as I've lots of other stuff on the go at present. John Edited January 27, 2021 by Dunsignalling 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM42 Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 14 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said: I was part way through the 24.5t cut-down to make an as-built 1/107 option as a try-out for multiple construction when Accurascale announced their 1/107 models. I want three and have ordered a pack. The conversion is definitely practical, though the door-end looks like being a bit of a faff. I'll probably get round to finishing the conversion after the Accurascale ones arrive if I think I can make it stand comparison. Back in the drawer for now as I've lots of other stuff on the go at present. John I would suggest using the bottom of a 16t door and the top of the 21t door. It worked well for adding a pressed steel door onto a 21t 1 hour ago, Peter Eaton said: Gentlemen Are these the kits you desire https://www.five79.co.uk/RC473/ the Gold mine seems open again. Peter Thanks for that tip. I have already been mining Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM42 Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 Managed to find my work in progress with the 16t / 21t door combo Cut the 16t door below the horizontal door top ledge and the same on the 21t door to make the two parts. Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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