Guest WM183 Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Hello folks! My next 7mm kit has arrived, a SR 8 plank open kit from Parkside. This is a nice looking kit, with the plank and bolt head detail on the body itself being a definite high point. However, as luck would have it, SR is the only one of the "Big 4" I don't have a book for. This kit didn't come with the underframe / crossmember assembly either; I've contacted Parkside to see if they can send a replacement, but I might have to build a new underframe. At this time, I have just a couple questions: 1) Does anyone have a good drawing or diagram of one of these wagons, so I can reproduce the underframe? 2) What type W irons should this wagon have? I might use some of Bill Bedford's sprung ones, and I think they're just regular RCH outline ones, but wanted to be certain before I order a set. 3) How late would these be seen in service with the large "SR" logo? Did Southern go to smaller logos like the others did in the 30s? 4) What's the best way to weight an open like this? A load? All the best! Amanda, the 7mm wagon addict Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Oh! One other question: The buffers included in the kit do not seem to quite match those i have seen in photos. Does anyone make proper SR pattern buffers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted January 30, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 30, 2020 Obviously you can add a load but you may not want to. I've squashed plasticine in between all the chassis members on a couple of opens but its not quite dense enough. Lead shot is a suggestion I've seen elsewhere. I think it can swell when reacting to some glues though so you'd need to avoid that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 It would help if you could tell us the diagram of the wagon -- is it given in the instructions? There were several 8-plank diagrams for the SR and they're all slightly different. There are ex-LSWR ones, ex-SECR ones and three different kinds built by the SR themselves. Annotated photos on the web suggest that the ex-Parkside kit might be for D1379, built by the SR, on 9' wheelbase with Morton-clutch brakes. Looking at the drawings in Bixley+ An Illustrated History of Southern Wagons vol 4, all the axleguards seem to be of, or close to, the RCH profile. Photos in Bixley+ of D1379 show buffers that are similar RCH standard, but the ribs on the guide are shorter than the RCH pattern common on PO wagons: the ribs on the SR kind don't extend the full length of the buffer guide. Some other 8-plank wagons of different diagrams are shown in Bixley+ with SECR self-contained buffers. These latter are essentially identical to the well-known, self-contained wagon-buffers of the GWR. The SR version has a riveted flange on the back of the buffer head which the GWR version lacks (welded construction?). The SR agreed to change to small lettering on wagons in 1936, at the same time as the other companies. How long it took for all the large-letter wagons to be repainted or withdrawn I don't know, but 10 years sound plausible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 59 minutes ago, Hal Nail said: Obviously you can add a load but you may not want to. I've squashed plasticine in between all the chassis members on a couple of opens but its not quite dense enough. Lead shot is a suggestion I've seen elsewhere. I think it can swell when reacting to some glues though so you'd need to avoid that. It's water-based glues (including PVA) that cause the problem: you mustn't let it get wet (or feed it after midnight). Formation of salts on wet lead involves expansion that can burst things. Epoxy seems safe: I have wagons from decades ago with expoy'd lead weighting and they haven't exploded yet. For safety, make sure to paint or varnish any exposed lead surface so that it can't drink in atmospheric moisture. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 30, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 30, 2020 This one? https://peco-uk.com/products/sr-12ton-8-plank-open-wagon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ52 Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 I’m happy to scan and email details from the relevant Illustrated Wagons book. Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Oh! My apologies all! It is diagram 1379, and yes, that is the kit Nile! PS12 is the Parkside kit number. Thank you for the information on the buffers and W irons! TJ i would be very grateful for diagrams from the wagon book! I'll make it the next book on my list. Thanks much! Amanda Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ52 Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 I'll do it tomorrow. Just got a new computer so hopefully all will be ok. Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted January 30, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 30, 2020 8 minutes ago, TJ52 said: Just got a new computer so hopefully all will be ok. That, Sir, is the very definition of optimism! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ52 Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 It's a refurbished Mac. All is well! Terry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 For weight, get some self adhesive tire weights. I've been using these. My latest wagon is a Parkside LMS long low plate wagon. This is very light. I stuck weights, or parts of weights, between the underframe members and was able to get a good weight to the wagon. This should be a good build and relatively easy. Interior, as shown in the link, should be bare wood, the colour of which resembles cream. Make sure there is good grain detail before assembling. To get a representation of grain, drag coarse sandpaper along the part. Parkside tend to include RCH buffers in most of their kits. I check after receiving the kit to see if any parts are obviously wrong. I went to Slaters for LMS Van buffers for my unfitted LMS van kit which came with RCH. Having a source of drawing and photos is very helpful. Invertrain (https://invertrain.com/shop/) have a good selection of buffers. I've had a few and they are good. These are white metal with steel heads. Slaters (https://slatersplastikard.com/) have some buffers. These are very good being lost wax cast brass and steel heads. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
O-Gauge-Phil Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 (edited) Yep, I used to use tyre weights until the chap in the tyre shop got fed up with me - "what do you do with them all?" he enquired. When I told him ~~~~ well, I haven't been back for any more! I do believe he should have used all his expletives by now, but I wouldn't chance it in case he's thought of a few more. They do stick well on a clean surface. For white metal buffers also consider Northants Model Supplies NMRS, they have a large range, no connection, just a happy customer. Phil Edited January 31, 2020 by O-Gauge-Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 (edited) I got mine from my local hobby shop which I daresay is expensive. I'm sure these can be found on the weeb. John Edited January 31, 2020 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike hughes Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 If it helps, here’s a completed model michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 Here is a parkside buffer that has been hacked about a bit... I have used some spare Skytrex heads, that need a spin in the drill and a touch from a file to reduce the radius of the head. They have the look, I think... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Thanks guys! The photos help a lot! I will probably attempt to trim these buffer housings a bit to make them work too. Thank you again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
O-Gauge-Phil Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 (edited) To clean out the debris from inside the buffers try running the drill in reverse, it wouldn't bite into the casting proper. I normally just use a drill in a pin vice. Holding nuts on, I use a drop of paint on the thread, won't come loose but is easily removed using some pliers. Phil Edited February 3, 2020 by O-Gauge-Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Construction has begun. I have decided to replace the clunky, chunky, and fragile plastic door bangers with some i made from some scrap brass, and secured with bits of 1 mm brass rod to look kind of like rivets or bolts. This kit has a lot of flash and the parts arent as cleanly molded as the ones on the previous kit I built. I think Bill Bedford's brass brake gear is what the doctor ordered here. I will be doing a 3 link suspension on this one, making the best of the factory loose fitted axle boxes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Excellent door bangers. I've done the same thing on some wagons. Parkside don't do very much etched brass and no cast brass at all, so some thought is necessary to decide if the material provided is appropriate. When and if you do a Parkside brake van, be wary of the step hangers. On all the brakes I have done, I replaced the hangers with brass. Bills etched W irons and brake gear works well. You will need to try Slater's sprung W irons at some point to get a comparison. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Thanks for the compliment! My next wagon will likely be a Slater's BR standard van kit, so I can get a comparison. I've used bill Bedford understates and brake gear on many of my 4mm wagons, so am pretty familiar with them. Hopefully the brake gear doesn't take too long! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 Well deserved. You and I seem to be thinking along the same lines, scary. I first used Bills stuff on 4mm as well. I have 3 GWR Parkside wagons to do next. These are restorations since the original builder did a dreadful job. A friend gave these to me and I almost binned them, but wagons deserve to be built properly. One of the vans will get Bills W irons and brakes. The others will get Slaters sprung W irons. I will document the builds on my "Having a bash..." thread. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 The brake etch arrived yesterday, and a fun evening was had building and mounting the brakes. As the Bill Bedford etc only provides detail for brakes oriented for direct lever activation, and not the "reversed" orientation of the Morton clutch, I decided to do independent brakes on the wagon; this diagram had those from 32000 and up, according to some of the sources you folks shared with me! Now just for a few more brass details (like the roping staple / cleat to the left of the door ) and it'll be time for the paint shop! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 Wow, that does look great. Of course you will now have to do all your wagons like that I'm glad you did the brake guide strut, so often missed off. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 I will have to do them all as well as I can, but that's ok! For me, 7mm is very much about building the models all as individual stars. That is what makes 7mm so appealing; a simple wagon on a siding can be a scene that draws attention all on its own. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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