Ark Royal Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Unfortunately not, I only have exterior views and the 2&4EPBs of course did not have any. Found this which you may already be aware of: 3H Interior with blue moquette Hi Mike, Thanks for the link...... unfortunately this blue moquette was added in the late BR years and I'm lead to believe prior to this all 2nd class was Trojan Moquette as per a previous entry apart from 1st which was some sort of Blue moquette Cheers Anyway Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 Hi All, Nice Surprise today. B) The re-worked etch turned up on the door step quite unexpectidely, the turn around time is a credit to the company As a comparison: 1st attempt 2nd attempt The luggage rack side stanchions have been lengthened and the lower edge re-shaped....Thanks "Mike Trice" for the photo. The obvious difference is the luggage racks have now been made much much finer and I've added a half-etch to aid with forming them. The wall racks have now lost their tangs (originally to hold to the wall) and now I've added wall brackets (2 parts) And finally the mesh on the grille is once again somewhat finer and the appearance has changed dramatically. On the whole a vast improvement and i'm happy that i took the time to change the CAD drawings. I've been caught out though by the Etching Company getting them back to me so quick. The final etch has been altered as per the test, but i've still got to add all the tags etc. Oh well late night I guess!!!! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 Lighting Boards The lighting previously listed was a quick draw with a permanent marker onto copper-clad PCB and home etch job. As the process worked although towards the latter staging of the etch process the marker started to lift i have decided to take it to the next level of "home-etching" Using CAD once again i have produced a set of circuits that have now been printed onto "press n peel" sheets. These will then be ironed onto the PCB before etching. My intention was to show the boards in this update but once again i've been caught out he PCB boards are a tad too short!!! Another trip to Maplins Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 Hi Mark, The lighting strips look very good and so does the revised etch for the luggage racks. You'll end up with a 'cutting-edge' model won't you?! I can't remember anyone doing this sort of detailing in a coach in 4mm before. Question: I have looked through your topic again and note that you are going to run this unit on DCC. How will power be transmitted to each coach for the lighting? Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 Hi Mark, The lighting strips look very good and so does the revised etch for the luggage racks. You'll end up with a 'cutting-edge' model won't you?! I can't remember anyone doing this sort of detailing in a coach in 4mm before. Question: I have looked through your topic again and note that you are going to run this unit on DCC. How will power be transmitted to each coach for the lighting? Colin Hi Colin, When I started this project it was for our club layout operated by conventional DC Control but that went south when I took my sound chip diesels to one club meeting. The Club layout now is to be powered by DCC. I had thought of using the jumper cables from one coach to another using terminal pins as a means of disconnection. The chip to be housed in the DMBSO. I Haven't really explored that avenue much further. The easier way of course is to have a chip in each coach, which is the route i intend to go down, power coming from each of the coach bogies. The DMBSO will house the sound chip and motor control using the lighting outputs to power that coach. The TS and DTCL will just have function only chips. All being controlled under the same address......well that's the plan so far. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkmouse Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 My intention was to show the boards in this update but once again i've been caught out he PCB boards are a tad too short!!! Another trip to Maplins Mark, there should be loads of copper clad lying around somewhere under the layout I bought when we made up the edge supports. Like the new etches BTW. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 Mark, there should be loads of copper clad lying around somewhere under the layout I bought when we made up the edge supports. Like the new etches BTW. Thanks for the tip-off Pinkmouse.......I've ordered some but might take a trip out to borrow a bit Thanks for the vote on the new etches.....nearly finished updating the full etch. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 The re-worked etch turned up on the door step quite unexpectidely The new etch looks much improved. I look forward to seeing it assembled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 The new etch looks much improved. Hi Mike, Thanks for your comments and I totally agree. I look forward to seeing it assembled. Me too, it'll be nice to make some visual progress once the final etch arrives Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikes Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hi I have to say your 3H is going to be one awesome model, the luggage racks look fantastic!! good luck with the rest of it, i shall be watching with interest! I only i could build my 00 dc KITS dmu's to the same standard! mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hi I have to say your 3H is going to be one awesome model, the luggage racks look fantastic!! good luck with the rest of it, i shall be watching with interest! I only i could build my 00 dc KITS dmu's to the same standard! mike Hi Mike, Thanks for the kind words. You too can build to the same standards nothing is stopping you (except doubt). This is my first kit and all I have done so far is think what I want to achieve and how to go about achieving that. I have not set myself a completion date merely a target that when complete I can say that it is the best that I could achieve with the resources open to me. It means that along the way you have to embrace new challenges. They may at first seem daunting but what do you have to loose. If like me you decide to document your trials then all you have to loose is "face". For those that comment on your misfortunes...are you really bothered.....there will be many more that, like you, praise on your achievements.......giving encouragement, help or guidance along the way having faced similar challenges themselves. Right enough you'll probably not succeed first time every time and need the help of others, but this is the wonderful thing about this forum.........there is a multitude of expertise waiting at your fingertips. So my advice to you would be to set just one target along the way in your next build. Something you'd like the model to do or something you feel can be improved. Then strive to achieve that. The next time you'll have to choose something different and then your on the same road that I travel. If you don't achieve it.......well "I done the best with the resources available to me" comes to mind Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 Hi Mark, I'd just like to let everyone know that your etch for the racks is a little masterpiece! (A sample arrived in the post today). I have a pot of solder paint (powdered solder pre-mixed with flux) which looks to be the right stuff to assemble the main parts. How do you intend to assemble these things Mark?! Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 Hi Mark, I'd just like to let everyone know that your etch for the racks is a little masterpiece! (A sample arrived in the post today). I have a pot of solder paint (powdered solder pre-mixed with flux) which looks to be the right stuff to assemble the main parts. How do you intend to assemble these things Mark?! Colin Hi Colin, The plan, as per previous attempt, is as follows 1. Take Luggage Rack Bar Fret and fold slightly along pre fab fold line. 2. Pre solder adequate length of 0.5mm wire (not supplied) 3. Solder to wire (Step 2) to Luggage Rack Bar fret (Step 1) along"v" groove 4. Take Two Stanchions From Fret and clamp between piece of wood (same thickness as luggage rack bar) so bases are aligned. 5. Insert wire/luggage rack bar formed in Step 3 into bottom hole of stanchion. 6 When happy solder bottom hole on both stanchions 7. Insert pre tinned 0.5mm wire in top holes and solder to side stanchion 8. Fold luggage rack bar fret to meet upper 0.5mm wires and solder to said wires. 9 Cut and File flush wire that extends past face of stanchion If that makes sense i'll have to post some step by step photos!!! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Hi Colin, The plan, as per previous attempt, is as follows 1. Take Luggage Rack Bar Fret and fold slightly along pre fab fold line. 2. Pre solder adequate length of 0.5mm wire (not supplied) 3. Solder to wire (Step 2) to Luggage Rack Bar fret (Step 1) along"v" groove 4. Take Two Stanchions From Fret and clamp between piece of wood (same thickness as luggage rack bar) so bases are aligned. 5. Insert wire/luggage rack bar formed in Step 3 into bottom hole of stanchion. 6 When happy solder bottom hole on both stanchions 7. Insert pre tinned 0.5mm wire in top holes and solder to side stanchion 8. Fold luggage rack bar fret to meet upper 0.5mm wires and solder to said wires. 9 Cut and File flush wire that extends past face of stanchion If that makes sense i'll have to post some step by step photos!!! Mark Good set of instructions Mark, I'll have a go at assembling one tomorrow. The ends/stanchions are a good match to the profile of the seats I had previously made in styrene for the dreaded 2 **P. Will post a picture in due course of the result, with your etch and a plastic seat combined. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 Lighting Boards Well the copper-clad board turned up today for making the lighting circuits out of. Another first for me made harder by the fact that the press n peel sheets ordered over the internet came without any instructions! So I threw caution to the wind and had a go at producing one of them. Having cut the press n peel sheet to slightly over the size of the finished board, I ironed it onto the board and then came unstuck as the sheet moved and that was attempt no 1 done and dusted. My second attempt shown below was much more successful. However i still had the same problem of the sheet moving ...well curling up when ironing on to the board.....leading to the wobbly line on the right hand side of the next picture. Not a bad second attempt thou' Anyone got a solution too this problem ? Should i have left the board over sized ? How can you secure the press n peel sheet to the copper-clad prior to ironing to prevent it slipping or moving? Mark PS: I was aware the TS (Trailer Second) would come out back to front.....no matter what i tried with the CAD program i couldn't get it mirrored (is that a word?) so it would turn out the correct way when printed onto the board. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 Mark The answer to your problem is quite simple. Get the company that did your other etching etch the PCB it all works under the same method and principles. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 Mark The answer to your problem is quite simple. Get the company that did your other etching etch the PCB it all works under the same method and principles. Pete Hi Pete Thanks for the info....learn something new everyday.......its an option I guess. Rather like the upgrade process I've already used .....start with permanent marker and rule.......move onto press n peel and CAD........move onto artwork by me production by someone else. Gets my vote Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Hi Mark, The lighting boards are most interesting. Once again I can say that I have never heard of anyone taking the trouble to do this! It had occurred to me that perhaps there would be a way of linking the vehicles of a multiple unit for lighting just like the prototype: with jumper cables. You, with your inventiveness, should have a go! It would look very realistic to have cables on the inner ends. (SR junction boxes with micro plugs and sockets anyone?!). It would certainly save all the extra pick-ups (with their resultant friction), chips and addresses on your unit. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 Hi Mark, The lighting boards are most interesting. Once again I can say that I have never heard of anyone taking the trouble to do this! It had occurred to me that perhaps there would be a way of linking the vehicles of a multiple unit for lighting just like the prototype: with jumper cables. You, with your inventiveness, should have a go! It would look very realistic to have cables on the inner ends. (SR junction boxes with micro plugs and sockets anyone?!). It would certainly save all the extra pick-ups (with their resultant friction), chips and addresses on your unit. All the best, Colin Hi Colin, It was an idea hence Quote#32 "I had thought of using the jumper cables from one coach to another using terminal pins as a means of disconnection. " I had looked at these wee things Nano Connectors Seemed to fit the bill, mounted in the DMBSO and DTCL with just holes visible in bulkheads, wires then attached to lighting board. The TS would then have the wire from the lighting board through either bulkhead and a dummy jumper socket attached to the bulkhead to disguise the entry point. At the end of the wire (now being the viewable jumper cable would be the male counterpart of the above connector disguise to represent the jumper cable socket for the DMBSO and DTCL respectively. Thus when it was plugged into the socket the connectors would be hidden and the jumper socket would be flush with the bulkhead. Hope the above makes Sense ?????? Problem is can't find them in the UK!! Anyone ? Apart from the friction issue and the chip issue it would also mean the one chip i have to fit would be in the engine compartment hidden by the 4SKRT engine. I'm slightly concerned by the lack of room in the TS and DTCL for their chips with everything else going on. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Hi Mark, Sorry I missed that sentence in quote 32 about the jumper cables! Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 15, 2010 Author Share Posted July 15, 2010 Hi Mark, Sorry I missed that sentence in quote 32 about the jumper cables! Colin Hi Colin, No probs......done me a favour actually as I e.mailed the link above and they ship to UK daily.....result Worth exploring further without breaking the bank Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 Hi Mark, 'Bodger' Parks here. As requested: photos of those tiny but remarkable racks you sent me! They look rough and ready in these close-ups, but it gives an idea of what I did in terms assembly. Delete this post if you are not happy with the images! Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 It has now been pointed out by Mark that I omitted the back-plates from the brackets in that last photo. I should stick to the instructions given..... Apologies, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share Posted July 16, 2010 Hi Mark, 'Bodger' Parks here. As requested: photos of those tiny but remarkable racks you sent me! They look rough and ready in these close-ups, but it gives an idea of what I did in terms assembly. Delete this post if you are not happy with the images! Colin Hi Colin, The photos are just fine and Thank-you for all your constructive comments, in time i will endeavor to add these as the thread and saga of the brass fret continues It has now been pointed out by Mark that I omitted the back-plates from the brackets in that last photo. I should stick to the instructions given..... Apologies, Colin Mmmmmm you may have been wise to omit the back-plates.......the fun and games I've just had.......another design change on the to do list........soon need to chop down a forest at this rate!!!! Still as it's a big learning curve I'll let myself off. "Le grande Bodger" Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Royal Posted July 17, 2010 Author Share Posted July 17, 2010 Well in the cool morning light and another look at the photos more work is needed on the luggage rack etches. To be fair from normal viewing distance they are OK. However the build process is still not easy enough and the changes I made from Etch Mk1 to Etch Mk2 has had some implications Luggage Racks My original intention was to use 0.5mm wire between the two luggage rack stanchions as per Mk1. Having attempted the same with MK2 (finer etch) the wire is too bulky!! I omitted these from the build and now have no way apart from the MK1 Eyeball to align the seperate etches. Clearly as the photos reveal "My Mk1 Eyeball" need re-calibrating Solution: I feel (with advice from Colin Parks...Thank-you) the way forward here is to remove the holes from the stanchions and add slots for tabs, fitting tabs to the retrospective counterparts. Easy enough and it allows finer wire to be added later if so desired. Wall Racks The Wall Racks have also been made finer along with the removal of tabs to locate to bulkheads and the addition of Wall Mounting Bracket and Backing Plates. Having spent the evening playing tiddlywinks with a pair of tweezers and the Bulkhead Mounting Plates... the kitchen floor winning (Now i know why you omitted them Colin!) The problem with these is two fold. 1. No means of aligning the Brackets with the respective Wall Rack. 2. The Brackets and Backing Plates are fiddly to say the least to assemble. Solution: 1. "We" had the solution to part of this by adding the wall brackets to the end of the luggage racks with bend lines leaving just the intermediates to add separately. 2. Have the Brackets and Backing Plates etched from thicker material as one part taking advantage of half etching both sides to bring back to where I am with the etch now. This however means splitting the complete Rack etch into two separate etches.......cost This clearly will affect the solution to No.1 Thinking cap on... On a more positive note with the Etch................ ...........................The radiator grille is fine!!!!!! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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