Jump to content
 

Ark Royal's WorkBench "3H" DEMU Build


Recommended Posts

Mark,

 

Your redone roofs are looking very good. One small point is where the water fillers meet in the centre of the DT roof, there should be a union where the water goes into the tank. See plan below.

 

post-1373-0-30876800-1298405747_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers.

 

Hi Lyddrail,

 

Are you trying to book me into a padded cell? :lol:

 

I knew i should have asked if anyone had more detail shots of the toilet filler pipework on the DTCL. I used this photo downloaded from the internet.

 

post-4771-0-64020800-1298495495_thumb.jpg

 

Using my mathematical analyzer I ascertained that there were 4 vents to the bend in the pipework. Zooming in on the bend the photo lost all clarity and therefore I assumed it was a vent behind the pipework .......Dooooh!!!!!

I did attempt to bend this at an acute angle to form more of an apex in the wire, however the shell vent interfered with the route and made the other bends out of place. Hence the poetic license that came into play along with "no-one will know the difference" theory apart from me........How wrong I was.

 

I now see that the shell vent in question is in fact the water pipe union as you describe it and that if the shell vent is removed the route seems clear.

 

I will now have a few restless nights whilst I ponder the "Do I do it again"?

Do you have more in the way of drawing or photos that may aid me ?

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mark,

 

The roof detail is looking very good. Much more robust than my similar attempts in plastic!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

 

Not so sure about robust Colin. The stems are glued into 0.5mm holes however they are still very delicate and sadly easy to bend over given the flexibility of the guitar strings.

 

Hope the layouts coming along nicely

Mark

 

Re your electrical connections between coaches.

 

How about this.

 

Use a bar coupling made from a strip of copper clad. Etch the copper to form 4 strips and solder wire on each end for connections.

 

Use the centre spung buffer as another connection, the buffer head rubbing against a rubbing plate formed of copperclad.

 

Might work!

 

Dave.

 

Hi Dave,

 

Kinda given up on "jumping" the power from one coach too another...too many variables involved.

 

Unfortunately the 3H and D's never had any buffers between coaches just the rubbing plate and this will be sprung loaded so no gaurantee of it remaining in contact with its counterpart and/or one circuit rubbing against the wrong circuit.

 

Me thinks it may be easier to bite the bullet with cost and come up with someway of hiding the decoders externally on the DTCL and TS.

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Lyddrail,

 

Are you trying to book me into a padded cell? :lol:

 

I knew i should have asked if anyone had more detail shots of the toilet filler pipework on the DTCL. I used this photo downloaded from the internet.

 

post-4771-0-64020800-1298495495_thumb.jpg

 

Using my mathematical analyzer I ascertained that there were 4 vents to the bend in the pipework. Zooming in on the bend the photo lost all clarity and therefore I assumed it was a vent behind the pipework .......Dooooh!!!!!

I did attempt to bend this at an acute angle to form more of an apex in the wire, however the shell vent interfered with the route and made the other bends out of place. Hence the poetic license that came into play along with "no-one will know the difference" theory apart from me........How wrong I was.

 

I now see that the shell vent in question is in fact the water pipe union as you describe it and that if the shell vent is removed the route seems clear.

 

I will now have a few restless nights whilst I ponder the "Do I do it again"?

Do you have more in the way of drawing or photos that may aid me ?

 

Mark

 

Hi Mark.

 

You can have the full size image of this if it helps.

 

Just mail me.

 

Dave

 

post-509-0-00463300-1298672050_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for posting the photos, they certainly will come in handy.

 

I had decided that with no real photograph showing the toilet water pipe connection that I'd probably leave my pipework but now I have one that may change my mind.

 

I'd picked up from my photo the four (actually there's 5 on your more detailed) "U" shaped overflow pipes but this would not fit with my interpretation so that may also help me make my mind up smiley-sad029.gif smiley-sad055.gif

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for posting the photos, they certainly will come in handy.

 

I had decided that with no real photograph showing the toilet water pipe connection that I'd probably leave my pipework but now I have one that may change my mind.

 

I'd picked up from my photo the four (actually there's 5 on your more detailed) "U" shaped overflow pipes but this would not fit with my interpretation so that may also help me make my mind up smiley-sad029.gif smiley-sad055.gif

Mark

 

 

Mark.

 

I may have others. If you are still short, let me know.

 

Now, not wishing to teach you to suck eggs, but you will notice that the 'welds' across the roof are of two differing sizes (except round the guards van) so these will help place the roof items in the right location. The narrow panels coincide with passenger doors, and the wide ones with compartments.

 

I have underframe photos as well if needed.

 

I love the seat etch as well.

 

Best of luck

 

 

Cheers

 

Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites

Re-work of DTCL Roof Toilet Pipework

 

My Thanks 1st to Dave for posting a far superior photograph of the DTCL toilet pipework. Following this post and after sum contemplation of what cosmetic work would be needed to re-route this to follow a more prototypical route I decided to take on the challenge.

 

Although I must confess half heart-idly as following the point made regarding the roof welds I should really have re-located a lot of the brackets but decided this was a step too far.

 

The DC Kits roof does not come with the weld lines on. I had experimented with 0.5mm lining tape with some sucess but unfortunately couldn't find any thinner tape so the idea was abandoned.

That is unless someone can point me in the right direction? smiley-shocked027.gif

 

I hope you don't mind Dave but I've re-posted your excellent picture to save RM-Webbers from having to find the original

 

The Prototype

 

post-4771-0-63669000-1299010299_thumb.jpg

 

The Original Attempt

post-4771-0-53769400-1299010350_thumb.jpg

 

The Re-work Attempt

 

post-4771-0-14229700-1299010362_thumb.jpg

 

post-4771-0-99434000-1299010377_thumb.jpg

 

post-4771-0-00837200-1299010389_thumb.jpg

 

I glad now that I did re-work this pipework as it has freed up enough space to replicate the 5 overflow pipes.

 

Mark

 

Oh PS: In the original photograph there appears to be some kind of switching device on top of the toilet valve. If anyone has a clearer photo of the valve that would be much appreciated

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

They Say A Change Is As Good As A Rest

 

Decided to have a break from the upper part of the 3H as the weather was not to clever for spraying the interiors.

 

I turned my attention to the underframe detailing. The kit comes with etches to make these up, however apart from lack a bit of detail and them not producing 3D stowages, the main reason for re-making them was some of the shapes of these items are well off track.

 

As I have a few of these models to make I have dabbled into the plastic casting "game", thus only having to produce one "good" rendition of each item before making a mold. Unfortunately, most of the ones I made today are already in the molds so I have only one to show which I remembered before making a mold of it.

 

post-4771-0-62578200-1299441580_thumb.jpg

 

I will post the results when they have been cast in plastic.....hope it works!!!!!

 

The main reason for posting today however is to ask for any photos or diagrams of 3H that show the layout be it partial or full of the underframe detail. I have ample of a 3D but few of a 3H. Not wanting to fall into the same trap.....re: roof conduit.

 

 

Thanks In Advance

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

The main reason for posting today however is to ask for any photos or diagrams of 3H that show the layout be it partial or full of the underframe detail. I have ample of a 3D but few of a 3H. Not wanting to fall into the same trap.....re: roof conduit.

 

 

Thanks In Advance

 

Mark

[/color][/size]

 

 

Mark.

 

Here are the sketches I made on a visit to probably Selhurst on 24.02.74.

 

Once again, if you would like to full size scans please PM me.

 

Photos will take a little longer as I'm not sure what I have.

 

Dave

 

post-509-0-06059500-1299449151_thumb.jpg

 

post-509-0-81967400-1299449131_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The main reason for posting today however is to ask for any photos or diagrams of 3H that show the layout be it partial or full of the underframe detail. I have ample of a 3D but few of a 3H. Not wanting to fall into the same trap.....re: roof conduit.

 

 

Thanks In Advance

 

Mark

[/color][/size]

 

 

Right, found the first lot.

 

Shots explain themselves.

 

Still looking for the other side.

 

Dave

 

post-509-0-02089400-1299451897_thumb.jpg

 

post-509-0-25393200-1299451918_thumb.jpg

 

post-509-0-25881200-1299451935_thumb.jpg

 

 

post-509-0-25881200-1299451935_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

First Results In....Swinging In Favour of Molding

 

 

A few pics of the underframe stowages, showing the pre-cast object, straight from the mold and then "roughly" painted..no prep work.

 

post-4771-0-84120700-1299617737_thumb.jpg

 

Remember not to touch the plastic once molded for an hour otherwise you leave finger prints over it!!!!

 

post-4771-0-42062200-1299617747_thumb.jpg

 

Quite pleased with the results of the generator, I apologize the prototype has well and truly stuck to the mold base plate.

 

post-4771-0-41122900-1299617756_thumb.jpg

 

On going work but shows that some items will need several molds before the finished article.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

ALLY PALLY ~ REPLICA RAILWAYS MU FITTINGS

 

Hi All,

 

Thought I'd share another product released at the The London Festival of Railway Modelling , Ally Pally. (with kind permission of Gareth from Replica Railways)

 

If like me you are interested in EMU/DEMU builds then this will give you an alternative supply for those "hard" to locate items

 

post-4771-0-03427000-1301341617_thumb.jpg

 

post-4771-0-71671800-1301341619_thumb.jpg

 

These do not show at present on their website, however I do believe they will be under the Accessories Tab (part number RA110?)

The pack contains fixings for one end as per the photos

 

1x Buckeye in "dropped" position

1x Buckeye in "up" position

2x Horns

1x Steam Whistle

1x High Intensity Light surround

2x Cab front steps

2x Wiper blades

MU fittings

 

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mucky Duck,

 

If by "fabricate some of these fittings" you mean the Multiple Unit Connections then don't attempt it.

 

I've learnt from a lot of heartache and hardwork that they are just too tiny to get any satisfactory results. Somewhere in this thread there is a reference to when I finally went down the route of getting them manufactured.

 

Ian from "Impossible Creations" had a valiant attempt with his 3D laser printing kit.

 

Here's the 3D artwork for one

 

post-4771-0-18874800-1301423889_thumb.jpg

 

I think the dimensions say it all!!!

 

Unfortunately under the microscope it looked ok however to the naked eye it looked rather like a bit of plastic broken from a sprue.... Fortunately I met up with Ian at Ally Pally last weekend and we managed to have a laugh about the whole episode.:D

 

Injection molding was the only way forward with these. Unfortunately the cost out weighed the returns and of course the knowledge that a certain company mentioned above had taken up the challenge as well. :lol:

 

I feel your efforts would pay greater rewards if it was spent extending the main reservoir and brake pipe fitting which should be a tad longer IMHO.

 

Mark

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

First Results In....Swinging In Favour of Molding

 

 

A few pics of the underframe stowages, showing the pre-cast object, straight from the mold and then "roughly" painted..no prep work.

 

attachicon.gifStowage 1.JPG

 

Remember not to touch the plastic once molded for an hour otherwise you leave finger prints over it!!!!

 

attachicon.gifGenerator.JPG

 

Quite pleased with the results of the generator, I apologize the prototype has well and truly stuck to the mold base plate.

 

attachicon.gifFuel Tank 1.JPG

 

On going work but shows that some items will need several molds before the finished article.

 

Have you got any of those castings left over by any chance? I've just started looking under a DCkits 3H and  none of Charlies bits really look much cop.

 

 

Jon

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...