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Sophia's WKR workshop


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1 minute ago, Sophia NSE said:

Do I have enough masking tape? :jester:

IMG20200521142927.jpg.7d1f042c1b4fe384b7bb721ffc75ca1c.jpg

I'll line a couple of the coaches to see if it looks good

IMG20200521142927.jpg

Was that couple of dozen you meant? :rolleyes:

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If you're an LSWR fan make sure you're sitting down as today's heathenry involves a GBL T9 and an M7 chassis installed backwards

IMG20200522190504.jpg.e46d30a9fcf2a9722ac6622a63b67f2e.jpg

SECR meets LSWR on the WKR

IMG20200522192114.jpg.e97dc441b14cc21856ae711a92ca4eb8.jpg

I know the M7 wheelbase isn't quite right but it doesn't look entirely hideous. The inside of the body needs a little fettling for it to run properly, which can be for another day

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On 11/05/2020 at 20:35, Sophia NSE said:

It'll be a little unorthodox as I've already built the baseboards out of foamboard

Sounds interesting, I'd be glad to see your methods. By foamboard do you mean the thick cellular stuff sold for cavity wall insulation - about 4cm thick? Or what I think of as foamboard - expanded polystyrene with a card layer each side about 5mm thick? I've heard of people using both types.

 

Any good tips you have will inform any new layout I build - something small and maybe narrow gauge (been watching too many Youtube videos of feldbahnen).

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1 hour ago, Artless Bodger said:

Sounds interesting, I'd be glad to see your methods. By foamboard do you mean the thick cellular stuff sold for cavity wall insulation - about 4cm thick? Or what I think of as foamboard - expanded polystyrene with a card layer each side about 5mm thick? I've heard of people using both types.

 

Any good tips you have will inform any new layout I build - something small and maybe narrow gauge (been watching too many Youtube videos of feldbahnen).

Its the 5mm foamboard from art supply and craft shops. I used plenty of PVA and tape to hold it together

IMG20200523135854.jpg.c1fdfae56c00f155158870257d846f5e.jpg

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This section is 5.5 feet by 18 inches and I have another 4 foot by 18 inch section. The extra small piece is to house my controller and point switches eventually. I just need a couple more sheets for backscenes and cross bracing. Total cost so far is under £20 with absolutely zero carpentry skills required

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3 hours ago, Sophia NSE said:

I wonder how many locos they used the same chassis for...

As far as I know, nothing else. It was a new chassis in 1967, though it used the over-sized B12 wheels. The distinctive air reservoir is cast-in. A popular conversion at the time was to Caledonian Railway 0-4-4Ts. The standard X04 motor sits usefully lower than older chassis.

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18 minutes ago, BernardTPM said:

As far as I know, nothing else. It was a new chassis in 1967, though it used the over-sized B12 wheels. The distinctive air reservoir is cast-in. A popular conversion at the time was to Caledonian Railway 0-4-4Ts. The standard X04 motor sits usefully lower than older chassis.

Did they ever bother to change them to the correct size with the newer models?

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3 hours ago, Sophia NSE said:

Its the 5mm foamboard from art supply and craft shops. I used plenty of PVA and tape to hold it together

IMG20200523135854.jpg.c1fdfae56c00f155158870257d846f5e.jpg

IMG20200523135953.jpg.e656d73a6b84f42a2d5cb46118231ff3.jpg

This section is 5.5 feet by 18 inches and I have another 4 foot by 18 inch section. The extra small piece is to house my controller and point switches eventually. I just need a couple more sheets for backscenes and cross bracing. Total cost so far is under £20 with absolutely zero carpentry skills required

Great! Thank you for these photos, they illustrate your methods clearly. The 5mm foamboard I can cope with and concur with your comment on woodworking skills. However hard I try with squares, G clamps etc, I can never get 2x1 sawn, drilled and screwed square. I made an error with foamboard - used for a high level road, I glued wet and dry for the road surface with Bostik All Purpose, the solvent permeated the card layer and dissolved the polystyrene core, hence the road developed bubbles and sags. PVA next time!

 

That T9 looks good too, in case you wanted something a bit different I think the preceeding Drummond 4-4-0 - LSWR C8 - had a shorter coupled wheelbase. 

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3 minutes ago, Artless Bodger said:

Great! Thank you for these photos, they illustrate your methods clearly. The 5mm foamboard I can cope with and concur with your comment on woodworking skills. However hard I try with squares, G clamps etc, I can never get 2x1 sawn, drilled and screwed square. I made an error with foamboard - used for a high level road, I glued wet and dry for the road surface with Bostik All Purpose, the solvent permeated the card layer and dissolved the polystyrene core, hence the road developed bubbles and sags. PVA next time!

 

That T9 looks good too, in case you wanted something a bit different I think the preceeding Drummond 4-4-0 - LSWR C8 - had a shorter coupled wheelbase. 

Thankfully making those baseboards isn't rocket surgery :D

I might have to take a look at the C8 then

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4 hours ago, Sophia NSE said:

Did they ever bother to change them to the correct size with the newer models?

Yes, they did* though I'm not sure it really made them look that much better as the splashers had been designed round the old wheels and, as I mentioned, they'd stretched the wheelbase anyway.

          driving wheels    coupled wheelbase

real M7        5' 7"                   7' 6"

Triang M7     6'                      8' 3"

No doubt the 21st Century all-new model is accurate.

I've got one I'm going to use for a rough & ready Tilbury Tank. Those had 6' 6" drivers and an 8' 9" wheelbase. Allowing for the effect of the overscale flanges I'd say it was actually closer to that than the intended M7.

 

* revised models made 1985-88.

Edited by BernardTPM
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14 minutes ago, BernardTPM said:

Yes, they did* though I'm not sure it really made them look that much better as the splashers had been designed round the old wheels and, as I mentioned, they'd stretched the wheelbase anyway.

          driving wheels    coupled wheelbase

real M7        5' 7"                   7' 6"

Triang M7     6'                      8' 3"

No doubt the 21st Century all-new model is accurate.

I've got one I'm going to use for a rough & ready Tilbury Tank. Those had 6' 6" drivers and an 8' 9" wheelbase. Allowing for the effect of the overscale flanges I'd say it was actually closer to that than the intended M7.

 

* revised models made 1985-88.

The Q1 0-4-4 I'm building had 5'6 drivers, which is why I thought the M7 would be good. Instead I had to use a 14xx which only has 5'2 drivers

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I got the 14xx chassis because I wanted to have a go at Chadwick's LSWR 02 tank. I already had a body shell minus a chimney, so when the chassis arrived I checked it over, added a missing coupling, plonked the body shell on and ran it to see what it would pull, sorted out a traction tyre issue, decided it looked silly without a chimney so knocked one up out of some old plastic and now....

 

I can't bring myself to chop it up :(

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46 minutes ago, AdamsRadial said:

I got the 14xx chassis because I wanted to have a go at Chadwick's LSWR 02 tank. I already had a body shell minus a chimney, so when the chassis arrived I checked it over, added a missing coupling, plonked the body shell on and ran it to see what it would pull, sorted out a traction tyre issue, decided it looked silly without a chimney so knocked one up out of some old plastic and now....

 

I can't bring myself to chop it up :(

I, on the other hand, had absolutely no problem chopping it to the point where its genuinely and 0-4-4 and not the 0-4-2-2 that Chadwick uses

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1 hour ago, AdamsRadial said:

Why oh why couldn't he have based his chops on Triang Jinties or Princesses?

 

I'm intrigued to see where you go with that T9 project, by the way.

I'm on the lookout for a suitable tender as the few T9s that were allocated to the Eastern Section didn't have the watercart behind them as it made them too long for Kentish turntables

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On 24/05/2020 at 13:05, Sophia NSE said:

I'm on the lookout for a suitable tender as the few T9s that were allocated to the Eastern Section didn't have the watercart behind them as it made them too long for Kentish turntables

I think the T9s swapped with 700s in a complicated roundabout which gave the watercarts to other 4-4-0s, the released 6w tenders to the 700s and the ex 700 tenders to the T9s for Kent, see SEMG -http://www.semgonline.com/steam/700class_01.html

 

So a Hornby 700 tender should be ok. The tender bodies look similar 8w vs 6w except for length, so you might be able to shorten the watercart subject to getting a suitable tender chassis?  

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35 minutes ago, Artless Bodger said:

I think the T9s swapped with 700s in a complicated roundabout which gave the watercarts to other 4-4-0s, the released 6w tenders to the 700s and the ex 700 tenders to the T9s for Kent, see SEMG -http://www.semgonline.com/steam/700class_01.html

 

So a Hornby 700 tender should be ok. The tender bodies look similar 8w vs 6w except for length, so you might be able to shorten the watercart subject to getting a suitable tender chassis?  

I don't think I could bring myself to ever hack up a model :jester::lol_mini:

Not a bad idea to find a cheap tender chassis and chop up the watercart

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On 22/05/2020 at 19:30, Sophia NSE said:

If you're an LSWR fan make sure you're sitting down as today's heathenry involves a GBL T9 and an M7 chassis installed backwards

IMG20200522190504.jpg.e46d30a9fcf2a9722ac6622a63b67f2e.jpg

SECR meets LSWR on the WKR

IMG20200522192114.jpg.e97dc441b14cc21856ae711a92ca4eb8.jpg

I know the M7 wheelbase isn't quite right but it doesn't look entirely hideous. The inside of the body needs a little fettling for it to run properly, which can be for another day

Cute. I love it! 

 

 

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