Another track mod thread

[swiftbeam]

3 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

I think this is pretty critical. If you start modifying a point before you know exactly how the electrics need to work there is a high chance of ending up with a short somewhere and if its something like a break needed in a rail, you cant easily add that after you've built it.

 

This is why I asked the question in post No1.

[Hal Nail]

7 minutes ago, swiftbeam said:

 

This is why I asked the question in post No1.

Yes sorry, just highlighting!

 

I'm sure it must exist (and in fairness ive not reached the point of needing to look yet) but a generic diagram of where the gaps and wires need to be for dc or dcc would be really useful but I've never noticed one on any of the various threads discussing wiring of points, polarity flips, frog juicers and the like!

[Grovenor]

Try https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/

Lots of good advice on wiring for DCC.

[bgman]

FYI

 

If anyone intends to use the MM1 style stretcher bars for their track build I have spoken with the owner this morning on a different matter.

Whilst in conversation I did ask if he had any of these ( just for spares in my case ) and he told me that they are currently unavailable and no indication as to when he will have further stock. This is due to the etching company being restricted during the current situation.

 

G

[Simond]

For simple turnouts, wire the closure rails and blades to the adjacent stock rail and isolate the frog totally.  That means 4 breaks in the rails, two either side of the frog.  The breaks can be anywhere in the appropriate rail as long as a wheel cannot touch the “other” rail.
 

This will work for DC & DCC.  If you use DC you will need a motor with switch, an independent switch or relay to set the frog polarity (or Just leave it dead), whereas with DCC you can use a juicer, or any of the previous solutions.
 

atb

Simon

Edited May 30, 2020 by Simond

[brossard]

These threads tend to go in circles sometimes as I believe I said that earlier.

 

Anyhoo, my first DCC layout (it started life as DC but that didn't last long as I recognized the benefits of DCC), used Tortoises.  At that time I didn't use stationary decoders but simply a separate DC power supply and control panel switches.

 

I would totally recommend to use of stationary decoders for turnout motors.  More reliable (I had switches fail at shows) and removes the need for a control panel.  I plan to install push button switches on the layout fascia (both sides) adjacent to the turnouts.  They can also be operated remotely through the throttle.

 

John

Edited May 30, 2020 by brossard

[Simond]

Hi John,

 

I’m from the school of thought that wants to keep loco driver and signalman separate.  In my ideal (model) world, each section of the layout would have a fully interlocked lever frame and block bells to adjacent sections, and of course a proliferation of mates to operate it all.

 

on this basis, I don’t have any point or signal control via my DCC

 

given that the mates are not always available at the drop of the proverbial hat, I have pondered some automation, but for the current state of play (ie a loco shed) there’s absolutely no need for “An Automatic Crispin”.  Maybe one day...

 

in any case, the actual feeds to the track will be the same.  
 

cheers

Simon

[brossard]

Yes Simon, in an ideal world.  There are some very nice lever frames with all the bells and whistles.  However, for simplicity, I am going to do the button thing.  Each turnout will have a button on both sides.

 

Cheers

 

John