Depart here for Lockdown End

[ITG]

Well, I feel the moment has come to air the development of my second ever ‘adult’ layout. Not that the theme is x-rated, just that all previous layouts bar one, were long ago in my teens.

 

I’ve been asking questions and seeking advice on this website for some 18 months now, during which time the first ‘adult’ layout was conceived, born, actioned, run and…….. met its end! I hope others will share, and benefit from, my experiences, fun, learning and pain, which led me to this point. Not that I have finished learning by a long chalk. As others have said, every day is a school day.

 

Why start again? A number of reasons:

·       The railway room isn’t large (for 00, which is what I felt most comfortable with, due to both history and dexterity) at 3.5m x 2m, and was the family ‘study/office/storage’. I attempted to try to find space for using this room for both an office and a railway room – which turned out to be a compromise where neither worked well. (the layout was just 2m square)

·       I made the mistake of using my own carpentry skills and sundeala board. Not a good result. Baseboard problems dogged the layout with some warping and twisting, and its softness made precision and alignment of under-board point motors and servo-uncouplers tricky – well, for me at any rate.

·       I found I had quickly accumulated more locos & rolling stock than the layout could accommodate.

·       I always did see this first effort as a learning experience, so it was inevitable that version 2 would come soon.

 

So, where do I start from?

·       The room is the same, and still needs to have plenty of underboard storage, using existing furniture, but no longer needs to be a functioning office (we’re both retired). Thank heavens!

·       Peco 00 code 100 mix Setrack (for tighter curves min 2nd radius) and Streamline (including all points).

·       Mainly Bachmann stock, spanning a loose 1950s-mid 80s, to no specific era or location. I am in the ‘run what I like within (my) reason’ camp.

·       DCC using Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2, with a mix of Gaugemaster/Cobaltdigital point motors, and a parallel 12v DC supply for servo-uncouplers, infra-red track sensors and lighting.

·       An intense wish to get the baseboard right this time! Hence, I have opted for a modular, but designed to fit the room, ply-constructed self-assembly board from WhiteRose Baseboards (no connection other than a happy customer).

 

What I wanted from this layout and track plan:

·       As its likely for 99% of the time, I will be the solo operator, I wanted a double track continuous circuit, so I had the opportunity to set a couple of trains running, and sit back and watch, or shunt etc.

·       The operational and functional movement of a reasonable size terminus station, handling passenger and goods traffic, plus a modest loco facility.

·       Sufficient ‘storage’ and siding space for the current stock, plus allowance for growth.

·       Off-scene storage so there was a feeling of trains going somewhere, and later returning

·       A reverse loop, to turn complete trains.

·       A mimic panel, either or both of physical or on-screen for uncoupler control, and points indication and/or switching, etc. (I find it tiresome to use the DCC handheld to go from loco to accessory and back again. Not ruling out changing to a system such as Roco Z21)

 

I fully understand that fitting all the above in, will result in what some might feel is an over-full and over-busy track plan, (which it is) and shortish trains (which they will be, maybe 3-4 coaches). But those areas are compromises I am willing to make, especially as the novice in me enjoys the journey towards completion (if ever) as much as the operating or destination.

 

Because it is the current pandemic situation which has given me the time to action what I had been thinking about for some time, I name this layout…. Lockdown or maybe Lockdown End. Another thread gave me the name idea, so thanks. Plus, I'll be able to look back and reminisce about 'remember when......'

I’ll post some ‘work in progress’ pics later, and also a track plan (still undergoing some minor tweaking).

[ITG]

So here’s some pics of assembly of baseboards.

Unfortunately, doing this task (assembling in garage) coincided with a garden shed being replaced (nothing to do with model railways), which meant lots of garden shed contents were temporarily stored in the garage.Result - congestion and mess!

Although I’m quite capable of causing those two environments anyway - see the study as installation begins to happen.

 And yes, that is a carpet in my garage. Inherited from previous owners when we moved in a couple of years back. It’s a boon for jobs like this.

Edited June 15, 2020 by ITG
Added comment

[ITG]

And now inside to the study. Note the need for below board furniture necessitates the use of full length baseboard legs in some locations, and short adjustable ‘kitchen’ type legs in others, sitting on top of sideboard unit. Needs must, but it works quite well.

[TheQ]

The layout bases are looking good.

 

The name Lockdown is quite possible as places with down in their name are common in the West Country.

I went to RAF Lock(ing) where the were two messes and one was called (Flower)down.

I also went to Tidworth Down School, which later became Castle Down School.. (alongside the old MSWJR /GWR line)

Edited June 15, 2020 by TheQ

[smallman28]

7 hours ago, ITG said:

 

Peco 00 code 100 mix Setrack (for tighter curves min 2nd radius) and Streamline (including all points).

     

An intense wish to get the baseboard right this time! Hence, I have opted for a modular, but designed to fit the room, ply-constructed self-assembly board from WhiteRose Baseboards (no connection other than a happy customer).

 

 

Good idea to mix set track and streamline, I tend to do that as the short straight sections of set track are useful to save cutting small fiddly bits of streamline flexible track.

I have acquired a 1200x400mm Grainge & Hodder modular baseboard and the lightness/sturdiness of it is something of a revelation compared to the solid lumps of baseboards I usually build , it may well be used for a third layout 

Edited June 15, 2020 by smallman28

[ITG]

 

9 hours ago, ITG said:

An intense wish to get the baseboard right this time! Hence, I have opted for a modular, but designed to fit the room, ply-constructed self-assembly board

Guess what? The actual room size, measured multiple times, is 3454 mm x 1972mm, so the jigsaw puzzle of modular boards added up to 3450 x 1950. Now I’ve discovered the room isn’t square, sufficiently so as to angle the long side of the base board to eat up that 4mm headroom (3454-3450) and a little more as well. So I have successfully chopped about 9mm off the end of one middle board and repositioned the end panel of it. Now fits! 
I only needed to do this along one wall, as the problem wasn’t so severe across the opposite wall, and the fact that a diagonal board across the door opening meant there was sufficient play in it to adjust to fit.

 

Now, having got it all level, fitted legs and supports, and bolted boards together to ensure fit, I need to dismantle it all, and rebuild on the floor of the carpeted garage. I plan to print the full size trackplan (Anyrail) and lay track and underlay on pairs of boards, turning each pair upside down for wiring. Then moving back in to remount in the study. Must really start calling it the railway room! I will use the double garage, rather than the room itself, simply because of having more working space.

 

Board sizes vary from 1200x600, to 750x600, to 1050x300.  These sizes were selected because (a) they combined to fit the room (b) they should all be manageable to move in/out, although the layout is intended to be permanently sited and (c) they suited the track plan.

 

By the way, I’m writing this in virtually ‘real time’ for 2 reason. One, I can remember what I’ve done a day at a time, and two, that way I’m hoping that those more experienced than me will be able to spot improvement opportunities in my technique or approach before I get too far along a road. So feel free to chip in with feedback and input.

Edited June 15, 2020 by ITG

[Les1952]

Room not square?  I've lived in quite a few houses over the years- admittedly the present one since 1980- and have yet to find one where the rooms have all straight walls that meet at right-angles.

 

Les

 

[ITG]

8 hours ago, Les1952 said:

Room not square?  I've lived in quite a few houses over the years- admittedly the present one since 1980- and have yet to find one where the rooms have all straight walls that meet at right-angles.

 

Les

 

Well, Les, I guess I was aware of such inconsistencies, but just didn’t twig quite what an issue that could be when having only 4mm wriggle room. As i said, every day is a school day.

[Stubby47]

Before you dismantle, mark everything.

Board to board joints, which legs are which, which way round each board goes.

[5BarVT]

16 hours ago, ITG said:

Now I’ve discovered the room isn’t square, sufficiently so as to angle the long side of the base board to eat up that 4mm headroom (3454-3450) and a little more as well.

I discovered that the hard way too. Fortunately I had allowed about 50mm tolerance and was left with the 12mm I needed to separate the boards.  Phew!

New room should be square as it’s a new build, but will be checked before design is finalised. 

Once bitten . . .

Paul.

[ITG]

Thanks Stubby, that’s good advice.

 

Having been tested for fit and level, The baseboards have now been removed from the railway room, and out into the garage again. There’s more space to be able to turn boards upside down, working on two at a time, so that track alignment across joins is ok.

Using black foam sheet for underlay, which in the hidden tracks area, won’t be ballasted. I think my planning on Anyrail didn’t allow sufficient tolerance around baseboard edges, as what worked ok on screen was too tight on boards, so some tweaking necessary as track is laid out. As I’m using a mix of Peco settrack and Streamline, ensuring radii fit needs to be spot on. Because the tighter curves will mainly be out of sight, I find it helpful to use settrack for these. In any case, when I started on the first - now defunct - layout, I (perhaps) naively began with all Settrack. What I was used to I guess, from teenage years! So I already have a fair bit of it, and the the short straights can be helpful to fill gaps.

 

i

Edited June 23, 2020 by ITG

[TheQ]

On 16/06/2020 at 10:17, 5BarVT said:

I 

New room should be square as it’s a new build, 

Paul.

As per the Simpsons..

 

HAA haaaa

Edited June 23, 2020 by TheQ

[ITG]

Track laying in garage well underway, and in fact first few boards now moved into railway room. I decided to lay track across pairs of boards, that is bolting a pair together to limit how many track joints across baseboard edges I have to do. We have no plans to move house, which I guess will be the on,y reason why the boards will be moved. Where I do need to lay track, and rejoin across a baseboard edge, I have laid the track, and used a piece of settrack across the gap, cutting back the sleeper chairs to allow the rail joiners to slide back. Then the bridging piece of track can simply slot into position when reassembled, and the rail joiners slid to connect up. Every piece of track has a power feed so connectivity should be ok.

First tests of running on 2 pairs of boards now in situ passed ok, using a Hornby Class 40 and a Pullman coach. These boards form what will be largely the lower area under the station. Which is why point motors and frog juicers etc are on the surface. One track will be climbing at 2% to begin the route up to the station. And there’s one hidden storage loop there as well, plus the start of the entrance road to one side of the reverse loop. Which reminds me - must add a track plan later.

Not sure why photo comes out sideways, as it’s right way up when I add it from file.

[ITG]

All boards now (largely) track laid and wired, and now relocated into railway room. And it all fits back together and is all level. My method was to work on boards in pairs, leaving each pair joined for removal indoors. Was a little tricky with only wife to help during lockdown, but we managed. This halved the number of cross-board track joints. For those that did need to be joined, I cut track on joint, and slid rail joiners back by cutting chairs. This allowed me to simply drop the connecting track into place. As every piece of track has a power feed, that should be ok.

Done some test running, and 90% ok, but a short wheelbase loco (Bachmann 2-4-2 tank) not liking a couple of points. It stutters and stops. As track was used on previous layout, I think a thorough clean (and of wheels) is next step. Then maybe have to lift offending points.
 

Most recent track laying has been the incline, using Woodland Scenics 2% inclines. This starts from under the yet-to-be-built upper board, and goes in almost a complete circle to flow into the upper board terminus. Needed to do this to limit gradient. Now waiting for a pack of the Powerbase plates to ensure traction uphill is ok.

[TheQ]

oops

Edited July 7, 2020 by TheQ

[ITG]

With the lower boards track laid, wired and tested, my attention turns to the upper board (3.5m x 0.6m) which will house the upper terminus station. I’ve opened to use aluminium square section tubing for support, based on belief that the strength v (25mm) profile will work for me. I wanted a low profile framework under the board, to give max clearance for tracks and access below. All the tubing was ordered precut to an array of sizes, to ensure support legs avoided tracks etc below.

i will actually construct the boards, lay /wire track etc in the garage, in two sections, and then move into the railway room before connecting . The 12mm marine ply will be screwed to the tubing..

 

here both parts are being tested for fit in the railway room.....

 

one thing I didn’t foresee, was that connecting the two parts in situ would be impossible as originally thought, because the slot together tubes and junctions need about 2” space to slide in, and as the Full length fits the room exactly, that 2” leeway doesn’t exist. So I’ll cut off the joining lugs (3) and cut the upper board in such a position that the join is exactly on a aluminium crosspiece, and thus just space to screw both parts onto the crosspiece.