Converting new Hornby Princess Royal to EM gauge

[knala29]

Has anybody tried to convert one of the latest Hornby Princess Royals to EM?

 

I bought one recently expecting it to be essentially similar to other larger Hornby models of recent years with 3mm driving axles and 2mm axles for the rest which would enable the use of standard commercial replacement wheels from Markits or Ultrascale (drivers not made by Gibson). However this loco actually has 2mm driving axles and 1.75mm for the rest and all the visible wheels have blind axle holes with moulded hubs. I have tried using the Hornby drivers regauaged which requires new axles. The wheels are only marginally thicker than Gibson for example but there is negative clearance with the splashers, valve gear and brakes etc.- again tighter than other locos I have converted recently.

 

Thoughts most welcome.

Alan

[LNWR18901910]

That's a bit expensive. It is a new model, after all. Is it really worth it? You don't get that many RTR models or train sets in EM after all.

[Hilux5972]

8 hours ago, LNWR18901910 said:

That's a bit expensive. It is a new model, after all. Is it really worth it? You don't get that many RTR models or train sets in EM after all.

So? He shouldn’t model his chosen scale?

[hayfield]

10 hours ago, LNWR18901910 said:

That's a bit expensive. It is a new model, after all. Is it really worth it? You don't get that many RTR models or train sets in EM after all.

 

From right on at the start of ready to run locos and stock modelers have bought new items and altered them, many of those who model in different gauges look at the currant state of play with the excellent models available and feel its not worth investing the time and perhaps the money in building a kit. Perhaps the question should be why not rather than why

 

 

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Well, at least we know one person not to send an EMGS/P4 society prospectus to!

 

Mike.

[LNWR18901910]

5 hours ago, Hilux5972 said:

So? He shouldn’t model his chosen scale?

I'm not saying he shouldn't. I'm just saying that cutting up a recently-released model may seem like sacrilege. I wasn't being rude, I was just thinking about the expense of it.

[knala29]

Admittedly if I had known that this loco would present the difficulties that it has I probably would not have bought it. However the accuracy and level of detail and finish to be found in recent RTR models exceeds that achievable by the vast majority of kits and kit builders. I have managed to adjust the cylinder saddle and motion brackets to restore clearance at the front end and shaved some material off the inside of the splashers - whether it is sufficient remains to be seen. The only visible cutting up so far has been the removal of the brakes but if all goes well otherwise they can be refitted with suitable spacers. I think the biggest issue there will be permanently bonding the Hornby plastic. 

Edited June 25, 2020 by knala29
omission

[hayfield]

2 hours ago, knala29 said:

Admittedly if I had known that this loco would present the difficulties that it has I probably would not have bought it. However the accuracy and level of detail and finish to be found in recent RTR models exceeds that achievable by the vast majority of kits and kit builders. I have managed to adjust the cylinder saddle and motion brackets to restore clearance at the front end and shaved some material off the inside of the splashers - whether it is sufficient remains to be seen. The only visible cutting up so far has been the removal of the brakes but if all goes well otherwise they can be refitted with suitable spacers. I think the biggest issue there will be permanently bonding the Hornby plastic. 

 

Use a modern industrial strength glue, window companies and kitchen fitters use a Miter bond which sticks most things to each other including those plastic window surrounds

[hayfield]

3 hours ago, LNWR18901910 said:

I'm not saying he shouldn't. I'm just saying that cutting up a recently-released model may seem like sacrilege. I wasn't being rude, I was just thinking about the expense of it.

 

 

I think the same when someone gets so fed up with poor performance from a new RTR model they build an etched chassis, but in my case its putting up with a mechanically poorly designed/built item

 

Then again I have just bought a kit second hand which new is £175 + £60 for the wheels and £75 for motor and gears. Then add paint and transfers its quite a tidy sum

 

Now if you can buy a RTR model for £150 and just pull out the wheels a little you are £'s in pocket and spent no time building it. Lets face it the quality of some models is far better than some can achieve building

[down the sdjr]

I bought a really nice Bachmann 4F on ebay for under £90 and EM wheels from Alan Gibson £35. It was a TMC super customised with weathering, coal, crew, fire irons and re-number. I could not build that train in EM gauge for £125 from a kit. Plus, I simply do not have the skills.