White Gloss paint - are there any that don't yellow

[Penrhos1920]

For the first time in my life I've been tasked with painting the woodwork gloss white.  Whenever we've decorated before it's always been coloured or satin white.  I was choosing which paint to buy yesterday and read a few reviews.  Dulux, Crown & Leyland white gloss oil based paint appears to yellow after 6-9 months.  It appears that it's down to the restrictions stopping them put in what they used to put in, and even then, white paint yellows over the years.  I don't want to use fast drying acrylic because I've got a couple of panelled doors and I find them difficult to do with fast drying paint.  So what is there that I can use?  Is the alternative to buy almost white?  Will that not yellow?

[kevinlms]

AFAIK the substance that used to be in white paint, that is now banned is lead.

 

There are very good health reasons to not use lead, so get used to it.

[The Stationmaster]

Our experience with Dulux trade gloss is that the white doesn't yellow - even after 10 years judging by some of our woodwork.  Maybe the primer and undercoat make a difference?

[The Stationmaster]

Just now, kevinlms said:

AFAIK the substance that used to be in white paint, that is now banned is lead.

 

There are very good health reasons to not use lead, so get used to it.

But lead was banned from UK white paint years ago - and some whites that didn't have did indeed go yellow far too quickly.  But that was almost three decades ago and its use had been very severely curtailed down to seriously reduced quantities back in the 1960s. (It had been banned in Australia long before it was banned in Britain)

[andyman7]

Might as well paint it cream

[Fat Controller]

4 minutes ago, kevinlms said:

AFAIK the substance that used to be in white paint, that is now banned is lead.

 

There are very good health reasons to not use lead, so get used to it.

Lead-based paint hasn't been available in the UK for at least thirty years (when I worked for a paint manufacturer) The sole exception was Red-Lead Primer, which had to be ordered in advance. The normal white pigment is titanium dioxide.

[kevinlms]

1 minute ago, The Stationmaster said:

But lead was banned from UK white paint years ago - and some whites that didn't have did indeed go yellow far too quickly.  But that was almost three decades ago and its use had been very severely curtailed down to seriously reduced quantities back in the 1960s. (It had been banned in Australia long before it was banned in Britain)

Yes, I'm aware that lead has been banned in most countries for a significant number of years. But the OP didn't specify WHEN white paint stopped being white.

[Scottish Modeller]

Hi all,

 

The white i now use is intended for touching up white goods - ie cookers/waching machines/fridges and freezers.

 

It hasn't gone yellow and some of the lorries I first used it on are nearly 40 years old!

 

It is described on the tin as enamel paint and thins with paint thinners.

 

Thanks

Phil H

[Fenman]

1 hour ago, Fat Controller said:

Lead-based paint hasn't been available in the UK for at least thirty years (when I worked for a paint manufacturer) The sole exception was Red-Lead Primer, which had to be ordered in advance. ...

That’s not quite true: you can get permission to use lead paints in heritage projects (we used it in the restoration of an Adam Brothers building from the 1770s, to recreate the original colour scheme). But it involved lots of hoop-jumping and specially-made paint.
 

Paul

[TheQ]

Not had a problem with yellowing, though a local pub I don't think has been repainted since the days of heavy smoking...

 

There was a big change to paints in the late 2000's when the EEC banned various substances and high VOCs from paint. It has made paint much more expensive and not as good. 

 

I've been painting the boat today, and doing some varnishing.  To both I immediately add some white Spirit to make the paint flow better.. Reversing the removal of VOCs. 

 

Edited September 13, 2020 by TheQ

[Talltim]

We’ve found that yellowing occurs far more in places that don’t get light, e.g. skirting behind furniture.

[APOLLO]

Last week we repainted all the internal woodwork, doors skirting & staircase. We used Johnstones non drip white gloss, a solvent based paint. Applied nicely but smells a bit. It takes ages to dry and is still a touch tacky. Gives a nice glossy finish though. Guy in shop said it might yellow over time as EEC had banned certain ingredients - Zinc I think he said. Fingers crossed it will continue to dry over the next week or two. Not too bothered if it goes cream over time as long as it's consistent.

 

Brit15

[Penrhos1920]

3 hours ago, Penrhos1920 said:

Dulux, Crown & Leyland white gloss oil based paint appears to yellow after 6-9 months.

 

2 hours ago, kevinlms said:

Yes, I'm aware that lead has been banned in most countries for a significant number of years. But the OP didn't specify WHEN white paint stopped being white.

 

 

[F-UnitMad]

2 hours ago, Talltim said:

We’ve found that yellowing occurs far more in places that don’t get light, e.g. skirting behind furniture.

Nail + head = hit!!

Solvent gloss yellows more where it doesn't get the UV in natural sunlight, so often occurs on staircases - just the part of the house where there can be a lot of woodwork & a lack of light!!

 

Water-based glosses will not yellow, but don't yet acheive a truly mirror-gloss finish that you can get with solvent gloss. But for most applications they're good enough, with the other advantages of little odour & quick drying.

For panel doors I cut in the fiddly bits with a brush, and apply quick-dry gloss with a flock-covered mini roller (the type that are usually orange coloured) for an even finish. I'd recommend Dulux Trade acrylic as that's what I use mostly, or Dulux Quick Dry. I've not tried Leyland Quick Dry, although their 2-in-1 Acrylic Primer/Undercoat is very good.

[cravensdmufan]

Dulux Trade Gloss - excellent stuff and definitely doesn't yellow.  Use their undercoat too (and primer if going onto bare wood).

 

It's quite a bit dearer than other paint but well worth it IMO as it will stay bright and shiny for years.  We did all our internal doors and frames around 6 years ago and it still looks like new.

 

Make sure you buy the Trade versions.

[Penrhos1920]

15 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:

Nail + head = hit!!

Solvent gloss yellows more where it doesn't get the UV in natural sunlight, so often occurs on staircases - just the part of the house where there can be a lot of woodwork & a lack of light!!

 

Water-based glosses will not yellow, but don't yet acheive a truly mirror-gloss finish that you can get with solvent gloss. But for most applications they're good enough, with the other advantages of little odour & quick drying.

For panel doors I cut in the fiddly bits with a brush, and apply quick-dry gloss with a flock-covered mini roller (the type that are usually orange coloured) for an even finish. I'd recommend Dulux Trade acrylic as that's what I use mostly, or Dulux Quick Dry. I've not tried Leyland Quick Dry, although their 2-in-1 Acrylic Primer/Undercoat is very good.

 

 

Thanks, so I think I’ll take your advice.  Is this the type of roller you used?  The description says “simulated mohair fabric”:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/harris-trade-gloss-mini-roller-sleeves-multipurpose-4-x-24mm-5-pack/5519x#product_additional_details_container

Edited September 14, 2020 by Penrhos1920

[F-UnitMad]

I use those for going behind radiators.

This is the type I use for gloss -

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Flock-Short-Pile-Roller-Sleeve-4in---Pack-of-2/p/105873

[Torper]

Foe wide areas such as doors I have never yet been able to obtain a decent finish using water based paints.  So for them I always use solvent based paints.  One brand I have used in the past which shows no sign of yellowing is Sikkens, although I've only used their satin-finish Rubbol Satura Plus.  I would anticpate that their gloss Rubbol AZ Plus would be equally effective, but it isn't cheap!

 

DT

[polybear]

20 hours ago, F-UnitMad said:

Water-based glosses will not yellow, but don't yet acheive a truly mirror-gloss finish that you can get with solvent gloss. But for most applications they're good enough, with the other advantages of little odour & quick drying.

 

 

In my book "quick drying" is an absolute nightmare.  Dare to go back to even up the paint five seconds after you've brushed it on and it really screws things up :(

I've no idea what paint was used on my "pre-finished" bathroom panel door I fitted back in the mid 90's, but it's still such a bright white you need sunglasses.....

[F-UnitMad]

2 hours ago, polybear said:

In my book "quick drying" is an absolute nightmare.  Dare to go back to even up the paint five seconds after you've brushed it on and it really screws things up

Depends on the brand. I had some Valspar ((B&Q) quick-dry gloss that was worse than that - first brush stroke laid it on, second stroke took it off!! Rollering was no good either.

Fortunately I managed to persuade the Customer that cream gloss was a bad idea anyway...