Jamesb Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Hi all, Im currently in the process of building my first layout in over 10 years. I'm new to Dcc but think I've mastered the basics. I have a quick question though regarding wiring Peco unifrog points. I understand that they are wired as per normal electrofrog/insulfrog points (ie at the toe). My question might seem like a completely daft one, but I'd appreciate any help. In this scenario pictured below, do I require a single pair of droppers at point (A) which will feed both points or do I need an additional pair of droppers at (B) as well? Thanks, James. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 You don’t , but you are relying on all the juice getting through point A and feeding B, I did this but eventually put a second power feed in for reliability at B 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 As I understood it (not yet having used one) the frogs themselves are isolated from the rest of the point and are electrically dead unless you do something positive about connecting them via some form of changeover switch? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Correct , but his query doesn’t relate to that but feeds . the whole frog is isolated unless you wire it up to something - mine are wired to the frog feed from cobalt DCC point motors which are simple to install and use 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 So. If you are using metal fishplates then you will get connection all the way. But! It would be much safer and worthwhile to put feeds into all turnouts After all, it's only a few more wires. Don't scrimp. Dave 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesb Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 Many thanks for the replies. This makes sense. James. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold griffgriff Posted September 27, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2020 Good practice dictates every rail should have a dropper. You shouldn’t rely on fishplates alone with DCC. Potential power draw can be heavy and any heat created can prove to be disastrous. Griff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinofLoxley Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 On 27/09/2020 at 17:59, griffgriff said: Good practice dictates every rail should have a dropper. You shouldn’t rely on fishplates alone with DCC. Potential power draw can be heavy and any heat created can prove to be disastrous. Griff Woud you consider droppers soldered to fishplates adequate? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMorrison Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 No, that is same as just using railjoiners, the power is being transferred to the rails by the push connection of the rail joiner, bad idea to rely on them 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 If you are using sound/ lights on stock on these roads then you need the B droppers and also droppers on the bottom points frog ends as well. Its not because its DCC you need the droppers but the power, 4 to 6 amps DC will cause the same problems, limit your DCC power to 1 amp and most of the need for modified points and droppers will disappear like Politicians when faced with an awkward question. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 On 27/09/2020 at 17:59, griffgriff said: Good practice dictates every rail should have a dropper. You shouldn’t rely on fishplates alone with DCC. Potential power draw can be heavy and any heat created can prove to be disastrous. Griff They are also a weak connection. Since the rails & joiners are a friction fit, paint, water & glue can help to add resistance to the join, especially after a few years when resistive oxidation products have had a chance to build up. A voltage is required to push a current across a resistance & with DC, you want low voltages for slow running delivered across the motor as efficiently as possible, not wasted across a rail joint. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 A wire soldered to fishplate isn't optimal. But its probably better than a badly soldered wire to a rail, which with poor technique is often a dry joint. I'd say for a smaller layout, and perhaps one which isn't intended to have a long life, the fishplate might be fine. Whether the fishplate method is reliable in the medium to longer term will depend on the other factors, some of those mentioned by Pete immediately above this posting. Its a bit like relying on the contacts on Peco point blades; they're not perfect, but they do work for many people and can work for decades without an issue. But, just like the point blade contact, the fishplate might become iffy in its contact and give running problems. So, the wiring perfectionist will work around both the blade contact and fishplate contact, coming up with better engineering solutions. ( Or could just go to battery and wireless/radio control, then no track to wire whatsoever ! ). - Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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