TheEastSuffolkman Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Hello all, I've had this project on the back burner for a long time and am now feeling ready to start attempting to complete the project. I acquired a Hornby Class 153 in the original Greater Anglia livery scheme and wanted to do *almost* everything I can with DCC operation to the model, lights, sound, etc The model already has directional lighting so that is okay to go but the following is the list of adjustments that I want to make to the model to 'kit it out' : Fit a Loksound V5 (Standard) with LMB soundfile with some custom adjustments / sound slots Fit Cab Lights in each end (warm white) Fit interior lights (warm white) and add a 'filament flicker' when they turn on. Fit BIL / Door Hazard / Interlock lights and get them working in sync with the sound file *Possibly* Add independent control of the head and tail lights at each end (not modifying for Day / Night functionality, just independent control of what shows what on each end) Now most of the programming side will be a mess about with my lokprogrammer when it's installed and that's fine with me, but I would like some help in picking out the right products to complete the above jobs. I have no worries about installing all of the kit required and am quite happy to but my knowledge of electrical equipment is non-existent (knowledge of LEDs and Resistors required, etc). Below I shall head the sections of the project as above and my questions that come with each section. Any help, advise or direction would be very much appreciated. Sound: I know that i want to fit a Loksound V5 with LMB's 153 soundfile but there are a few questions that I have that I would like to know if I can set up. This section is probably more aimed at the LMB crew and when I order the decoder/soundfile, I'll put the questions forward but encase anyone else is here who has had previous experience of the sound file, I'll post my thoughts / questions here as well: Would it be possible to add some custom announcements, the GA 153s never had automated announcements but was going to record some my self as 'the conductor' to add to the file? Does this need to be done before I get the sound file or can I add my own sound slot after getting the file and add it myself? With the dispatch procedure on a Class 153, the 'passenger door' would be closed first with the closing alarm, once closed, the guard would check the door (interlock light still illuminated) and then close his local door with no alarm, the interlock light would go out and then give the RA / TRTS to the driver on the Bell-Buzzer. The bell-buzzer is on a separate function so i'm not worried about that but, is the 'door/dispatch sequence' possible on the sound file or would it require a lot of sound file re-writing and it's worth just forgetting about it? (Having previously worked with the GA 153s, I'd quite like to get the sequence correct and am happy to do a lot of the programming work but it's obviously not my sound file and appreciate other have better things to do that create door sequences) Cab Lights: Fairly simple question for this one compared to the last I guess, what LEDs (Warm white required) and Resistors should I use for the Cab lights and how do I wire these in to a Loksound V5 so they are independently controlled, if not, make them directionally function-able? Interior Lights: Pretty much, same as the last one, what LEDs / strip (Warm white required) and Resistors should I use for the interior lights and how do I wire these in to a Loksound V5? Door BIL / Hazard / Interlock lights: Again, what LEDs (orange (I guess) required) and Resistors should I use for the BIL / Door Hazard / Interlock lights and how do I wire these in to a Loksound V5? Independent Head / Tail Lights: Finally, the Hornby 153 lighting system seems to work off a simple common positive/negative style system (see attached photos), Is there a way I can wire these into a Loksound V5 so they are independently controlled (i.e. Tails on both ends for stabling, and normal directional running lights. *NOT Day and Night modification*) I have seen various bits and pieces of equipment and guides out there and know most of this is probably possible but this is my first time attempting something this complex with regards to lighting and modification. Once again, any help is greatly appreciated so I can arm myself for when i'll probably start next month. Thanks for Reading Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giz Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 You might find these links on the 'dcc, sound and lighting updates' website useful if you haven't already seen them: http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153/index.htm http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153nutec/index.htm http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153sound/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legomanbiffo Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Jack, As always, I'm happy to work with a customer to achieve what they want so no concerns on that score. To deal with your points in turn; 1. Most of the changes such as interior lights, independent directional light control and cab lights are simple CV changes as you suggest. It's just a case of mapping the function keys to the appropriate auxiliary outputs and choosing the lighting mode (eg flickering in the case of your interior lights). I'm happy to advise on that if you get stuck. 2. My 153 sound project already has the door opening lights mapped to Aux1, and they stay on whilst the door closing sound is playing (unlike simple mapping would permit). However, what you want is slightly different so I need to look at how I could program for that. It is something I need to do to reflect prototypical operation though by the sound of it. It's certainly do-able. 3. In view of how many controllable outputs are needed I would suggest using a Loksound MKL chip which has plenty of outputs, and all are at full voltage so you wouldn't need amplifying transistors for the LED's, just the LED's themselves and series resistors. The MKL (as used in the Hattons 66) is the same price as a normal 21-pin. You would need to use a 21-pin adapter plate but these are not expensive and would aid your modifications anyway I think. 4. There's plenty of room in the sound project to add some announcements voiced by yourself. I can give you guidance on recording them. They aren't something you can add yourself though, I would need them here when I create the sound project. Can I suggest that you make contact with us and we can start to discuss the fine details. Bif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEastSuffolkman Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 On 10/01/2021 at 22:38, giz said: You might find these links on the 'dcc, sound and lighting updates' website useful if you haven't already seen them: http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153/index.htm http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153nutec/index.htm http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-153sound/index.htm Thanks for the links Giz, They will certainly be most helpful with the installation, especially once I get my head around LEDs, voltages and resistors 20 hours ago, legomanbiffo said: Jack, As always, I'm happy to work with a customer to achieve what they want so no concerns on that score. To deal with your points in turn; 1. Most of the changes such as interior lights, independent directional light control and cab lights are simple CV changes as you suggest. It's just a case of mapping the function keys to the appropriate auxiliary outputs and choosing the lighting mode (eg flickering in the case of your interior lights). I'm happy to advise on that if you get stuck. 2. My 153 sound project already has the door opening lights mapped to Aux1, and they stay on whilst the door closing sound is playing (unlike simple mapping would permit). However, what you want is slightly different so I need to look at how I could program for that. It is something I need to do to reflect prototypical operation though by the sound of it. It's certainly do-able. 3. In view of how many controllable outputs are needed I would suggest using a Loksound MKL chip which has plenty of outputs, and all are at full voltage so you wouldn't need amplifying transistors for the LED's, just the LED's themselves and series resistors. The MKL (as used in the Hattons 66) is the same price as a normal 21-pin. You would need to use a 21-pin adapter plate but these are not expensive and would aid your modifications anyway I think. 4. There's plenty of room in the sound project to add some announcements voiced by yourself. I can give you guidance on recording them. They aren't something you can add yourself though, I would need them here when I create the sound project. Can I suggest that you make contact with us and we can start to discuss the fine details. Bif Bif, thanks for the response, absolutely I will get in touch with you guys shortly to talk the finer points, just got a few bits to sort with the whole project first to get it prepared before I drop you a line. One quick question you might be able to answer for me if possible, what is the output voltage on the AUX functions of the MKL as I've had a look through the ESU manual and (probably me just missing the obvious as I always do) can't find the output value. I've ben looking at SMLEDs and the 'wiring for 12V operation', would this be the correct base voltage to work off when looking at what LEDs I need to get? Many Thanks to all, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted January 25, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 25, 2021 Just stumbled across this. Not sure how far you have got, but my 153 end lights were wired as common -ve as I found out this weekend. I have had to reverse the SMD LEDs to make them work independently. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEastSuffolkman Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 Well, Here's a little update on the project a little further on. All of the lighting and wiring has been completed, including as before, the fitting of figures to the passenger saloon. The unit has been fitted with a standard 21pin Loksound V5 fitted to an ESU adapter and aux booster board to allow enough AUX functions to power all the separate lighting functions. The next stage is to finalise and adjust some of the cable management in the 'short end' to get the body on fully, and paint some more of the interior to minimise the light bleed but I want to see what brightness adjustments I can make first (although I reckon this will not have much effect on the bleed) Then it will be a case of waiting for Bif to finish helping me out with the customisation of his brilliant soundfile which is currently in progress (and I am very grateful for his help so far). Once this has been loaded on, I can begin to re-map the AUX lighting functions to the desired keys so they work with the sounds and operation of the model, and that should be project finished. Below are some photos of the unit in it's current state, showing off all the individual lighting functions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted January 28, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 28, 2021 Very nice. Mine will go back together this weekend after the passengers arrived today. Were your lights wired common positive? Mine weren’t. I haven’t done the door open lights yet. What LEDs did you use? I have two functions for cab lights. One turns on the leading cab and fades out when movement starts. The other turns on the rear cab irrespective of movement (so the guard can see). Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LIGHTRAY Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Hi Jack I'm in the process of working on my 153 and wondered if you could repost the missing pictures that you posted above but must have been lost in RMWeb service provider change. Thanks Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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