Chuffnell Regis

[Graham T]

I might give it a go...  It will bother me otherwise!  Silly mistake to make, down to rushing for the finish line when I should have been looking for reference photos.

 

[Rowsley17D]

30 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I might give it a go...  It will bother me otherwise!  Silly mistake to make, down to rushing for the finish line when I should have been looking for reference photos.

 

 

Have you got or can get hold of de-bonder? It'll soften the superglue and all should be easier to part from each other.

[MrWolf]

33 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I might give it a go...  It will bother me otherwise!  Silly mistake to make, down to rushing for the finish line when I should have been looking for reference photos.

 

 

We've all done it. I followed an online magazine article as a shortcut when building my autocoach chassis before realising that it was completely wrong and had to slice off a whole lot of delicate etched parts before starting again.

 

I rested the parts on a small block of wood and cut / levered downward onto it, which would probably work with the V hangers.

[Tortuga]

47 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

Have you got or can get hold of de-bonder? It'll soften the superglue and all should be easier to part from each other.

I might just look to get hold of some of that myself. Daft question, where would I find it?

[Rowsley17D]

53 minutes ago, Tortuga said:

I might just look to get hold of some of that myself. Daft question, where would I find it?

 

Major diy stores should sell it along with superglue. B&Q usually stock it. I've had some years bought at York show along with Powerbond superglue.

[BWsTrains]

3 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

Have you got or can get hold of de-bonder? It'll soften the superglue and all should be easier to part from each other.

 

As it's metal to metal bonding, acetone or MEK (and even possibly Ethyl Acetate) should do the trick of softening the set CA enough to separate. I been told acetone is what they keep in Casualty for when various careless folk's body parts become firmly glued together thru accident or protest.

 

Clearly, any solvent should not get near the molded PS components.

[Mike_Walker]

I always wipe the super glue nozzle after use with nail polish remover which I think is acetone based.  Certainly seems to prevent it clogging up so it might soften in this case.

[Graham T]

Thanks for all the helpful tips.  Still haven't quite made my mind up whether or not to go for a re-attack...

 

[cctransuk]

6 hours ago, Graham T said:

So I'm thinking of leaving them as they are, and trying to remember not to make the same mistake with the next kit...

 

 

Superglue dissolver is widely available.

 

CJI.

[Graham T]

So, teeth were gritted, loins girded, and fingers crossed.  Some delicate prying about with a number 11 blade managed to remove the mis-shaped levers, and I bent up some new ones (probably still in the wrong shape!)  This will have to do now.  Time permitting I'll try to give it a coat of primer tomorrow.

 

 

[MrWolf]

It's a very nice looking van, I'll be interested to see what it looks like painted and lettered as I do happen to have an identical kit for the all steel van, it's certainly a change from iron minks, of which I must have half a dozen.

Vans are I think, the reason why I got into collecting and building wagon kits.

Back around 1980 when I started reading old RMs and MRC's, I realised that the RTR of the time was part modern image, part fiction and a couple of BR vent vans from Mainline which looked okay, apart from the sliding doors, which owed more to the play value of Dinky Toys than a supposed scale model.

Even when I was nine, I was a bit strange!

[Graham T]

Thanks Rob, I'm reasonably pleased with how it's turned out.  Still need to straighten one of the buffers if I can though.

 

I'll reserve comment on your innate strangeness or otherwise!

[Tortuga]

Much better and congratulations on taking the plunge to get it corrected  improve it!

 

I’m sure we’ve all been there (I know I have) and at least half the battle is psyching yourself up to take a knife to a model* that you were perfectly happy with until you noticed / someone pointed out some niggling error.

 

(*or rip up the track again / demolish some scenery / pull down a wall / re-solder balance weights / etc. etc. etc.)

[Graham T]

1 hour ago, Tortuga said:

Much better and congratulations on taking the plunge to get it corrected  improve it!

 

I’m sure we’ve all been there (I know I have) and at least half the battle is psyching yourself up to take a knife to a model* that you were perfectly happy with until you noticed / someone pointed out some niggling error.

 

(*or rip up the track again / demolish some scenery / pull down a wall / re-solder balance weights / etc. etc. etc.)

 

Thanks, I'm glad I did it.  Just wait until I start tearing up the whole layout to make way for Chuffnell Regis Mk II...

 

 

[Graham T]

The van has now had a coat of Tamiya rattle can haze grey, with dark grey Vallejo acrylics for the roof, and a black underframe.  Everything else will have to wait for a while as I'm off on my travels with work for three weeks tomorrow.

 

 

[Graham T]

Back again in the land of the ...  well, not sure what really.  Real-life events have given my motivation something of a shoeing, so haven't had much inclination for modelling since I got back home.  All I've managed to do is add the Pressfix transfers to the van (and give the track a quick clean).

 

So, here's the van.  Next step will be some weathering; not sure how extravagant to be with the rust on this one?

 

 

Obviously I had to have a little play as well, just to make sure that the wagon still rolled...

 

[MrWolf]

Good to see you back Graham, if it's any consolation, I too have done b.....r all modelling of late!

[NHY 581]

Morning Graham, 

 

Ditto re Wolfie. Had it not been for exhibitions then I'd also be in the done B.O camp. 

 

But it's now the modelling season........'tis the season to be jolly ! 

 

Rob  

[Rowsley17D]

Good to see you back, Graham. It's threads like yours that keeps me on going through what I am going through, so let's get some modelling going ladies and gentlemen to take my mind off things for a little while.

[Graham T]

21 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

Good to see you back, Graham. It's threads like yours that keeps me on going through what I am going through, so let's get some modelling going ladies and gentlemen to take my mind off things for a little while.

 

Thank you Jonathan.  Your situation crossed my mind when I wrote my last post, and stopped me from moaning more about my lot.  There are always people far worse off than ourselves, however dark things may seem.  Once again, I wish you all the best, and thank you for your words.  You've encouraged me to do some more modelling, which is very good of you.

[checkrail]

I've had the same malaise - got distracted/lumbered, and felt motivation ebbing away.  All I've done in the last month is clean the track. But today I'm going to make a 'to do' list. 

 

LMS van and wagons looking good Graham.

[Graham T]

Thanks John.  @Rowsley17D has given me a much needed kick in the behind, and I will now step away from the computer and ponder which bit of the layout to tackle next...

[Graham T]

With thanks again to Jonathan (@Rowsley17D) for getting me moving again, I thought that perhaps something with a Midland flavour might be appropriate for the next project.  So, the Fowler 2P was hauled onto the workbench to get some brakes fitted to its tender.  Here it is at the start of play, with a distinct lack of anything remotely like brakes...

 

 

I'm using a set from Alan Gibson, which as well as brake hangers and shoes also includes two gauges of brass wire.  A little bit of head scratching and pondering, and I decided that the simplest way to start would be to superglue some plasticard spacers onto the sides of the tender keeper plate.  This gave me something to fix the brakes onto at more or less the right spacing from the side frames.  I just needed to make sure that there was enough space between the brake shoe and the wheel itself to allow the latter to still move from side to side without fowling.

 

 

So far so good, and so the next brake could be fitted.  I'm still not quite sure how to fix the last one though, as the keeper plate doesn't extend to the rear of the trailing wheels.  Any bright ideas very gratefully received!

 

 

Turning to the other side of the tender, I started to repeat the process, using the supplied brass wire for the connecting rods.

 

 

 

[Rowsley17D]

It's quite a job to retrofit tender brakes needing 2 pairs of hands. I didn't fit a rearmost set due to the coupling block and only the bottom part of the hanger would be visible any way. 

[MrWolf]

Dammit, I'm going to have to fit brakes to the 2251 and the 4F now!

 

That 2P looks much better with brakes.