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Motorising the Kitmaster Blue Pullman


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The evening of reckoning, the motor coach was taken to the Folkestone MRC where a layout was conveniently set up where I could give it a test run. the coach ran well, but there was a problem with derailments on a particularly sharp curve on one of the hidden loop approaches. The loops are not aprt of this layout and are only used in the workshop room. But at the moment there's no couplings fitted, the kitchen car was being propelled just using the rubbing plates.

 

There as alsoa convenient loco-hauled pullman set available as a test train. the KM motor coch would just about manage 3 coaches with some finger power for added weight, so I reckon some lead weight in each motor coach shoule be enough to move the 6 car set. the 12-car loco-hauled set had a class 45 on the front. I had a job moving the train by hand, it really was a heavyweight train!

 

The next problem as I've had to modify the floor in the engine bay, is how to access the bogie pivot screw. The fan in the roof has been removed and it should be possible to drill out the recessed hole in the roof to insert the shouldered screw to hold the bogie in place, but, the hole doesn't quite line up with the centre line of the Black Beetle motor fixing! It's not insurmountable, but difficult on the other motor coach which was bought off Ebay ready-built and the roof just won't come off!

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28 minutes ago, roythebus1 said:

The evening of reckoning, the motor coach was taken to the Folkestone MRC where a layout was conveniently set up where I could give it a test run. the coach ran well, but there was a problem with derailments on a particularly sharp curve on one of the hidden loop approaches. The loops are not aprt of this layout and are only used in the workshop room. But at the moment there's no couplings fitted, the kitchen car was being propelled just using the rubbing plates.

 

There as alsoa convenient loco-hauled pullman set available as a test train. the KM motor coch would just about manage 3 coaches with some finger power for added weight, so I reckon some lead weight in each motor coach shoule be enough to move the 6 car set. the 12-car loco-hauled set had a class 45 on the front. I had a job moving the train by hand, it really was a heavyweight train!

 

The next problem as I've had to modify the floor in the engine bay, is how to access the bogie pivot screw. The fan in the roof has been removed and it should be possible to drill out the recessed hole in the roof to insert the shouldered screw to hold the bogie in place, but, the hole doesn't quite line up with the centre line of the Black Beetle motor fixing! It's not insurmountable, but difficult on the other motor coach which was bought off Ebay ready-built and the roof just won't come off!

 

Removeable roof - secured via three long screws as per the old Tri-ang Hornby Mk.1 coaches.

 

Where the roof is securely glued, you may have to resort to a razor saw. Sounds drastic, but microstrip, solvent and Milliput can cover a multitude of butchery!

 

Removeable rooves are a prerequisite of interior detailing. Glue a false ceiling below the roof to stop the sides from bowing, and drill/tap the false ceiling for the roof securing screws.

 

CJI.

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On 20/08/2022 at 21:16, cctransuk said:

 

Removeable roof - secured via three long screws as per the old Tri-ang Hornby Mk.1 coaches.

 

Where the roof is securely glued, you may have to resort to a razor saw. Sounds drastic, but microstrip, solvent and Milliput can cover a multitude of butchery!

 

Removeable rooves are a prerequisite of interior detailing. Glue a false ceiling below the roof to stop the sides from bowing, and drill/tap the false ceiling for the roof securing screws.

 

CJI.

Hi John, 

 

I don't suppose you have a photo of this so you? 

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10 hours ago, Richard_A said:

Hi John, 

 

I don't suppose you have a photo of this so you? 

 

'Fraid not - and the model is currently inaccessible.

 

It's very simple - long screws up though holes in the floor, screwing into matching holes in a thick plasticard ceiling stuck under the roof.

 

Sorry,

John Isherwood.

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2 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

'Fraid not - and the model is currently inaccessible.

 

It's very simple - long screws up though holes in the floor, screwing into matching holes in a thick plasticard ceiling stuck under the roof.

 

Sorry,

John Isherwood.

Hi John, 

 

No problem, thanks anyway. 

 

I'm trying to turn this pile of scrap into a full unit and I'm having to chop bits up to make full sides, and thinking about how to strengthen the joins and keep access. IMG_20240108_012420.jpg.d6244782bb6fc800dca8cba30143553c.jpgIMG_20240108_012246.jpg.479675237f175920bb4c1b3d5b8baaae.jpg

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6 minutes ago, Richard_A said:

Hi John, 

 

No problem, thanks anyway. 

 

I'm trying to turn this pile of scrap into a full unit and I'm having to chop bits up to make full sides, and thinking about how to strengthen the joins and keep access. IMG_20240108_012420.jpg.d6244782bb6fc800dca8cba30143553c.jpgIMG_20240108_012246.jpg.479675237f175920bb4c1b3d5b8baaae.jpg

 

Those roof mouldings are far too flexible - they need a false ceiling of 1 - 1.5mm. thick plasticard glueing beneath them to make them much more rigid.

 

Measure the internal width at eaves level; cut a strip of plasticard of that width and a little less than the internal length.

 

Place it under the roof - do not stick it as this stage - and check that it will form a rebate for the top of the sides to fit in, but not be visible through the top of the windows.

 

If the thickness is correct, stick the ceiling in place. You will find that the strengthened roof makes the assembled carriage MUCH more rigid.

 

All the best,

John Isherwood.

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