Wilder weathering oils

[sb67]

I've got a few tubes of these weathering oil paints and I've not used them for over a year. Does anyone know what their shelf life would be? I've tried a few practice bits and despite mixing them well and getting rid of the oil from the top of the tube they're drying glossy and in some cases haven't adhered to the undercoat and just wipe off even after 24 hours. 

I'm guessing they have had it! 

[Mick Bonwick]

I have found that they can be mixed by kneading the tube with the cap still in place, thus mixing that oil in with the pigment. I store mine with the cap downwards in the hope that the oil will accumulate in the other end of the tube, but I very rarely use them. I am not too happy with the Wilder products that I have used - the washes separate soon after opening, the pigments are rather coarse and the oils don't dry very quickly. The only one that I have used in the last 18 months is the dirty water that smells like a petro-chemical plant.

 

I'd suggest that their shelf life is rather short, but you could try mixing some with a very small pinch of talcum powder and placing the result on a piece of currogated cardboard so that some of the oil is absorbed before applying it to your model. The very nature of the medium means that it will probably take a long time to dry completely, though.

[sb67]

6 hours ago, Mick Bonwick said:

I have found that they can be mixed by kneading the tube with the cap still in place, thus mixing that oil in with the pigment. I store mine with the cap downwards in the hope that the oil will accumulate in the other end of the tube, but I very rarely use them. I am not too happy with the Wilder products that I have used - the washes separate soon after opening, the pigments are rather coarse and the oils don't dry very quickly. The only one that I have used in the last 18 months is the dirty water that smells like a petro-chemical plant.

 

I'd suggest that their shelf life is rather short, but you could try mixing some with a very small pinch of talcum powder and placing the result on a piece of currogated cardboard so that some of the oil is absorbed before applying it to your model. The very nature of the medium means that it will probably take a long time to dry completely, though.

 

Ta Mick. I've tried their washes and they don't seem to store at all and no amount of mixing will bring them back.  I will give the Talc idea a go, I'm only practicing some methods on scrap plastic so I've nothing to lose.  Mine seem to dry pretty quick but are just not sticking to the surface and as soon as it's handled come off and I've tried different surfaces. 

Did you ever try the MIG oilbrushers? 

[Enfys_Rainbow]

Mig Oilbrushers work well - I use them often. 

 

You don't mention if you're using them neat or not but remember that their intended purpose is often as panel line washes on aircraft - where the whole point is to be able to wipe them off or as washes, which require thinning. 

 

[sb67]

49 minutes ago, Enfys_Rainbow said:

Mig Oilbrushers work well - I use them often. 

 

You don't mention if you're using them neat or not but remember that their intended purpose is often as panel line washes on aircraft - where the whole point is to be able to wipe them off or as washes, which require thinning. 

 

 

I've been practicing the oil dot technique so using them neat but I'm finding with the oil brushers they are either not dry very quickly or drying and not sticking to the surface, they aren't drying matt either. Maybe I need to shake them for longer. 

I did an experiment by painting a line of oil brusher paint and a line of artists oils next to each other on some plasticard to see how they dry.