Newton Regis. Workbench wanderings through the 1920s and 30s the Great Western Way

[Neal Ball]

7 hours ago, longchap said:

Not much time doing railways today, shopping and car stuff took over. Some primer did find its way over the ex-top feed to show the scars. Here’s a photo, scary enough, but essential to indicate where more effort is needed. I never used to give this a thought, but the camera is now part of the modelling toolkit.

 

 

. . . . and I see that fried egg is still very much there @MrWolf

 

Busy with an old car tomorrow, but hope to find some quiet time with small chisel and fine abrasives.

 

Tally ho !!!  

That’s looking very good Bill, shame about the fried egg, will you be able to get rid of it? I hadn’t noticed it before…

 

How easy we’re the tank fillers to take off?

 

6 hours ago, longchap said:

 

It's the 1936 Austin Ulster, who's fuel pump is not doing much, so off with the engine compartment side panels to give free access to it and off it comes. I will just see if it pumps with the pipe to the carb disconnected, but otherwise see what's doing inside. It was rebuilt only a 3 or 4 years ago, so hopefully just a blockage.

 

I hadn’t heard of the Ulster before, so a quick Google saw a replica for sale (built in 2007). However, I think I prefer the 1929 Austin 7 “chummy” - for sale at £15k in the Netherlands. Both look to be lovely cars.

 

Good luck with the carburettor.

[MrWolf]

On 08/11/2022 at 13:30, longchap said:

Was just rummaging in a box not expecting to find any surprises, but came up with my first (and only) loco kit build, assembled and hand painted over 40 years ago.

 

 

Sat next to the Bachmann factory finished 57xx, the Precision Paints colour rendition seems to still be effective.

 

I meant to ask what is the old kit built loco?

[longchap]

57 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

I meant to ask what is the old kit built loco?

 

It's an absorbed Taff Vale U1 O-6-2, still made by Finecast. It runs on an old Jinty chassis, but you can now get an etched one. I put 9 volts to its wheels, which turned, so credit to Triang.

[MrWolf]

That's interesting to know, I wonder if it could be made to fit on the later Jinty chassis with the motor driving the middle axle as I did with the ex MSWJ 0-4-4?

That chassis at least has brake gear and dumb irons and can be made to pick up on all six wheels with a bit of modification.

[longchap]

24 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

That's interesting to know, I wonder if it could be made to fit on the later Jinty chassis with the motor driving the middle axle as I did with the ex MSWJ 0-4-4?

That chassis at least has brake gear and dumb irons and can be made to pick up on all six wheels with a bit of modification.

 

I can take photos of the inside and dimensions if that helps, as I'm minded to rescue it for use again and a chassis bash sounds interesting.

 

I've also booked a weekend chassis building course next March, as the kit stash has slipped into double figures.

[MrWolf]

Thanks, that might just be useful, I know that the internal dimensions of the last Hornby Jinty are little changed from the Tri-ang original, except for the addition of a backhead moulding.

That would also mean that you can give the old loco a check over and a service. 

[longchap]

Wilco, after I make progress with a defective washing machine and fuel pump. Time to overall up!

 

Laters.

[longchap]

3 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

That’s looking very good Bill, shame about the fried egg, will you be able to get rid of it? I hadn’t noticed it before…

 

How easy we’re the tank fillers to take off?

 

Mr W first spotted the fried egg, when accurately identifying the model's ancestry, but is was the primer that showed it had not been eradicated. Easily solved with more careful sanding.

 

The tank fillers were effectively removed with side cutters and could be re-used, although I have some spares coming. However, I need to source / make some tall mushroom tank vents. Any idea?

 

The Austin next on the agenda, but not before the bride sees some action with the washing machine!

 

Edited November 10, 2022 by longchap

[MrWolf]

Careful mentioning washers, we ended up with a conversation about period correct washers, power mangles, spinners over on my thread. It was like the Ideal Home Exhibition 1951...

[Neal Ball]

32 minutes ago, longchap said:

 

Mr W first spotted the fried egg, when accurately identifying the model's ancestry, but is was the primer that showed it had not been eradicated. Easily solved with more careful sanding.

 

The tank fillers were effectively removed with side cutters and could be re-used, although I have some spares coming. However, I need to source / make some tall mushroom tank vents. Any idea?

 

The Austin next on the agenda, but not before the bride sees some action with the washing machine!

 

 

Hi Bill,

 

For the tank vents - either plastic rod, stood on end, with perhaps a small washer on top and some filler, filed to shape.

 

OR: Get a 3D print done.... although they must be available commercially....

 

In fact the question was asked here in 2016: 

 

Although it looks as if Perservence kits are no longer produced. So Squires at Bognor Regis might be a better bet, asking ion you could have spares for an 1854 Pannier tank which is in the SE Finecast range.

 

Good luck!

 

23 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Careful mentioning washers, we ended up with a conversation about period correct washers, power mangles, spinners over on my thread. It was like the Ideal Home Exhibition 1951...

 

The ideal home - blimey that was such a draw into the 70's and 80's presumably it is still going?

[longchap]

45 minutes ago, Neal Ball said:

plastic rod, stood on end, with perhaps a small washer on top and some filler, filed to shape.

 

Now that sounds like a fine plan. Thanks Neal.

[Graham T]

247 Developments do GWR tender vents, not sure if those might be the same item?  There are no pics on the website unfortunately.

 

[MrWolf]

I'm sure that there are some dome topped copper rivets, say 1/16" that might be persuaded to look like tank vents. Plus you'll never snap them off.

[longchap]

18 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

I'm sure that there are some dome topped copper rivets, say 1/16" that might be persuaded to look like tank vents. Plus you'll never snap them off.

 

Another good tip, thank you Rob. I need to go to our local ironmongery store to pick up my big lawnmower from repair, so will look at their selection of 4mm Pannier tank vents in the next day or so. French ironmongers are fabulous bloke places and this one is my favourite local store. You can even buy single items of most small items they sell, rather than having to buy packets of them, as well as big lawnmowers of course.

 

In other news, the washing machine is fixed and the fuel pump is okay, so it's the carb.

[MrWolf]

Good news on the washer (brownie points) and almost good news on the car, (hooligan points) 

You mean a proper ironmongers, not a toy shop. There's still a few in Britain, but usually in the back of beyond. The thing with copper brass or aluminium rivets is that as long as the shank diameter is about right, you can stick them in a drill or lathe and get the important bit shaped correctly.

[longchap]

Thanks Rob and I need all the brownies I can get, as I'm attending not one, but two UK model railway events in the UK, early next year, so I'll be needing to knock a few more items off the ''to do'' list yet. Yes, a proper ironmongers, you'd love it.

 

After chatting to Marcel earlier today, as I saw a UK ''classic'' in his village garage (I source spares for him for older UK vehicles), he's  comming round to sort the carb, then we'll do a pre-MOT inspection back in his workshop to make sure it passes. Hopefully, it will soon have its French registration, so can again start flying around the vinyards.

 

Edited November 10, 2022 by longchap

[longchap]

On 10/11/2022 at 09:13, MrWolf said:

Thanks, that might just be useful, I know that the internal dimensions of the last Hornby Jinty are little changed from the Tri-ang original, except for the addition of a backhead moulding.

That would also mean that you can give the old loco a check over and a service. 

 

Birthday bash last night for a girl friend, her partner and another visiting couple new to us and it evolved into one of those rare and unexpected, fabulous nights, starting in our lively village wine bar and continuing in the quieter restaurant, where we provided most of the noise. Consequently, today saw me a tad sleepy still, so not a great deal done in the ‘’temporary railway cave’’.

 

I’m only mentioning the TRCave to remind myself that after already carrying out necessary pre-development works to the roof, insulation, and electrics to my workshop, I next need to make a start on the building work to partition off the end of my workshop and create the permanent railway room I’ve long promised myself. More of this in the spring, when the weather will be kind, as I’ll need to make up the wall frames on the workshop floor, so the cars will need to move outside, so winter needs to be away. More as it is about to happen then.

 

Here is yesterday’s miniscule progress on the 57xx:

 

 

The fried egg has gone and a bolt of thin brass rod installed into the dome to represent the bolt. It doesn’t look much, but any progress is good.

 

Now for a new plan prompted by @MrWolf, as today I got out my old Taff Vale U1 0-6-2 loco again to carry out survey work to help determine if a modern 0-6-0 Jinty chassis could be persuaded to successfully fit under this venerable loco and provide a much more suitable drivetrain than the ancient Triang chassis ever could.

 

 

 

45 years after building this kit, I’ve only now noticed the missing number to the rear buffer beam! Much detail also needs to be fitted than was available, or even considered by the 20 something mini me.

 

I know there is now an etched chassis available from Finecast and I had even emailed them a while ago about it, but received no reply. With new ownership, they may now move themselves, but adapting a more modern RTR mechanism sounds like an interesting prospect, plus I’m not going on my loco chassis building course until March.

 

The survey:

Sorry this is the boring bit, but necessary.

 

Working Triang Jinty chassis with added rear pony which needs some lead to stop reverse derailing

 

Dart board end

 

Coal bunker end and severe lack of cab detail! I need to order another back head

 

Underside detail and dimensions, but will the modern chassis fit?

 

 

More research regarding the modern Jinty chassis is required, plus I need to find one. Better start looking, although there is pretty much everything else to do on the  layout!

 

Finally, something completely different . . . a picture quiz:

 

 

I’ve had this tin for decades. Not sure where I got it from now, might have been the coach trip to Didcot or maybe that amazing first floor Aladin’s cave of an atic round the corner from Euston back in the 1980s. I wonder if it’s still there?

 

.  .  .  .  but what was it for?

 

Enjoy the rest of weekend.

Edited November 12, 2022 by longchap

[5BarVT]

2 minutes ago, longchap said:

floor Aladin’s cave of an atic round the corner from Euston back in the 1980s.

If you mean collectors corner, it went a long time ago.  Was under the ibis until that went for HS2.

Paul.

[longchap]

Just now, 5BarVT said:

If you mean collectors corner, it went a long time ago.  Was under the ibis until that went for HS2.

Paul.

 

Yes, yes, yes, that's it and thanks Paul. I used to travel out of Euston frequenty for work and learned from my model railway club of the collector's corner. It was a fabulous place and and I was fascinated by the quantity of pre-nationalisation memorabilia.

 

Bill

[wiggoforgold]

I don't think that is a Triang Jinty chassis in the U1. I think it's a re -wheeled Hornby Dublo R1 chassis.

On the subject of transfers, I think Railtech are brilliant. As Steve says above, he often turns orders round in under 24 hours.

Alex

[MrWolf]

I'll take the body off Number 23 and get some measurements this week. Conversion to fit the Beyer Peacock body only involved removing the lug ahead of the motor, but that was to clear the solid weight I had installed inside the smoke box. If you're buying a Jinty as a donor, you should look for the later version with the glazing and cream coloured cab interior. Lots on eBay for about the price of a night down the pub.

[longchap]

In the workshop, the baby Austin now starts and runs well. On removing the top of the carb and lifting out the float assembly, a Bovrilesque substance filled the space. Certainly cheaper than the current price of Super 98, but nowhere near as combustible.

 

Job done and just waiting for the new log book with the French registration number, then Mr Toad can play!

 

[Graham T]

She looks tres jolie!

 

[longchap]

Thank you Graham. Alastair is a gentleman, but not always with impeccable manners, as you never really know what direction he may decide to take on undulating surfaces!

[Graham T]

Please ask him to accept my apologies for the gender mix-up 🙂