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Airbrush recommendations for beginner


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I will shortly be building some 4mm scale Comet coach kits and will be attempting to paint them myself. I'm looking for recommendations for a suitable airbrush set for a beginner. I want a reasonable one, but don't want to spend £££. I have an ancient Humbrol one, but it looks pretty crude and uses an aerosol propellant which I suspect will be difficult to replace.

 

Thanks in advance!

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A budget airbrush like this:

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Airbrush-Compressor-Single-Action-Rechargeable/dp/B081HBK5K3/ref=asc_df_B081HBK5K3/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459345866293&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10289752980200825160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002661&hvtargid=pla-883723503506&psc=1

 

might be a good start.  As you will see the compressor is part of the brush.  The battery has about 1 hour of power and is rechargeable.

 

I've had mine for a while now and really like it.  I mostly use it for weathering and, recently painted my track with it.  Very convenient as there's no need to lug the traditional compressor around.

 

I also have a Paashe double acting brush but my go to lately has been the N&H.

 

John

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8 minutes ago, brossard said:

A budget airbrush like this:

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Airbrush-Compressor-Single-Action-Rechargeable/dp/B081HBK5K3/ref=asc_df_B081HBK5K3/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459345866293&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10289752980200825160&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002661&hvtargid=pla-883723503506&psc=1

 

might be a good start.  As you will see the compressor is part of the brush.  The battery has about 1 hour of power and is rechargeable.

 

I've had mine for a while now and really like it.  I mostly use it for weathering and, recently painted my track with it.  Very convenient as there's no need to lug the traditional compressor around.

 

I also have a Paashe double acting brush but my go to lately has been the N&H.

 

John

 

They can be mixed quality - I tried one and it was rubbish - http://philsworkbench.blogspot.com/2021/02/mini-airbrush-with-compact-compressor.html

 

There's a follow-up too: https://philsworkbench.blogspot.com/2021/02/airbrush-test-part-2.html

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I have used a Sparmax max 4 for 5 or so years and it works well. About £50. I also took a chance and picked up a used Iwata Neo for £40 and luckily it worked perfectly and sprays really nicely so a bargain in my eyes.  Compresser was around £90 for an AS186 which again works really well. Spray booth,masks etc are all additional extras which you may need.

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1 hour ago, Phil Parker said:

 

Ah, well, the brush you reviewed is not the one I have. 

 

https://www.neatandhandy.com/products/premium-airbrush-for-hobbies-crafts

 

I am quite pleased with it's performance.  It does require careful and thorough cleaning but that is true of every airbrush.

 

John

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4 hours ago, Phil Parker said:

 

The chances of getting a rough one seem to be a lot higher with a cheapie. Better ones seem to be more consistent & if you do get a dud, you can take it back.

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Davey's suggestion of an H&S brush is excellent - H&S products are made in Germany and very good indeed (I've got one, albeit a different model).  As a possible alternative I'd suggest a Sparmax Max 3.0, which is made in Taiwan and a little bit cheaper (https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Sparmax-MAX-3-Airbrush.html#SID=23) . I've got one of them as well and I really can't fault it - really a very good brush for that sort of price.  You'll also need a compressor of course and I'd suggest one of the ubiquitous AS186 models - I've had one for years and it's never let me down.  When I bought my AS186 it came with a couple of cheapo double-action airbrushes, one of which was actually quite acceptable and gave perfectle adequate results although I wouldn't want to try it for finer work.

 

DT

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I was in the same position 7 or 8 years ago. I had used aerosols with generally poor results but wasn’t sure how to take the leap of faith.

 

I bought the ‘cheapo Humbrol one’ and aerosol can to pretty bad results, left it off and on for a year or so after I lost confidence, then after a chance discussion in a model shop was persuaded to get a compressor - Draper one, no means the best for about £60 that was in a sale. That made the world of difference. I’ve repainted stock and locos and weathered lots of things, I think to reasonably good standards when compared to photos on here.

As an ex novice and certainly no pro now I’d maybe suggest if your on a budget get the compressor first and try the old brush, then upgrade the brush if/when your happy or if the old brush doesn’t perform - mine is starting to struggle a little now and really should look to upgrade.

 

One final piece of advice I was given, go and buy a few knackered old Hornby/Traing wagons that are always on sale at shows and swap meets for a couple of quid each and try on then first. Certainly if you’ve built the kits and invested all that time and effort.

 

Good luck

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On 14/09/2022 at 16:01, brossard said:

Ah, well, the brush you reviewed is not the one I have. 

https://www.neatandhandy.com/products/premium-airbrush-for-hobbies-crafts

 

 

It looks very similar to the one @Phil Parker reviewed except the colour and the retailer. Are you sure it's not from the same manufacturer?  


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Ralf

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I started off with a cheapo set up off Amazon , https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019CKXBOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 plus https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B016PXGZ68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  , I also bought a small spray booth , I had a practice a few times on scrap stock etc but I was using acrylics and as a former car painter (many moons ago) I wanted to use materials I was more familiar with , I didn't do much with the set up for months then bought some cellulose paints which meant I had to upgrade the airbrush as the seals in the one from Amazon wouldn't handle the solvents in the paints , I upgraded to a trigger Airbrush (Neo for Iwata TRN2)  , unfortunately I made a mistake there as I wanted the TRN1 (smaller nozzle size) so I did a little research and found I could use parts from a TRN1 to convert the TRN2 to a smaller nozzle which I did , after a couple more practise sessions I was quite happy with the airbrush and decided to upgrade to a larger spray booth and a different compressor so I now have a compressor and booth that have probably been used half a dozen times at the most sat in the corner of the spare room! , I will keep the cheapo airbrush for spraying acrylics for weathering etc 

 

Last weekend I started doing some more practising as although I was quite happy with the results I was getting from the cellulose paints the colour I was using for British Rail Blue was not right in my eyes so I did a little research and decided I would have a play around the the Phoenix Precision range of Enamels , with a twist! , as I had already stocked up on cellulose/solvent based products and didn't want these to go to waste , my primer weapon of choice is Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner , quite simply the best primer I have ever used 

 

Now I know you can paint Enamels over solvent products but not the other way around as this causes the enamels to react and it looks like you have poured paint stripper over it!

 

Here's the twist , scrap loco body or mule was primed with the Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black thinned 50/50 with the Mr Levelling Thinner , Phoenix Precision 14ml tin was thinned 50/50 with Mr Levelling Thinner (Yep , solvent thinner in Enamel paint) , this sprayed nicely at 20psi same as the primer through a .35 airbrush nozzle although I may do a little more experimentation with the pressure , I was more than happy with the end result and there was no reaction , I then carefully went over the whole surface with a light coat of neat Mr Levelling thinner which helps level the paint a bit better (a trick I learned whilst working in the bodyshop) before leaving it for a couple of hours then applied a couple of coats of Mr Color GX112 UV Cut Super Clear , again , a solvent based product but this is thinned at a ratio of 1 part clear to 2 parts Mr Levelling Thinner , again , no reaction , now I think this is all down to the fact that all the paint courses were done with the same thinners , had I been applying decals to the model I would have applied Mr Colour GX113 UV Cut Flat Clear after giving the decals 24 hours (I'll use the UV Cut Versions of the clears as Enamels are known to Yellow over time from UV rays)

 

I would have posted pics of the results but I didn't take any and the scrap loco body is back in the IPA bath getting stripped for more experiments! When I get round to painting some of my models with these methods I'll post the results on my workbench thread

 

Hope this isn't a little long winded an is of help to you in some way

 

Dave 

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On 14/09/2022 at 11:01, brossard said:

 

Ah, well, the brush you reviewed is not the one I have. 

 

https://www.neatandhandy.com/products/premium-airbrush-for-hobbies-crafts

 

I am quite pleased with it's performance.  It does require careful and thorough cleaning but that is true of every airbrush.

 

John

I like the look of that!  I have three airbrushes at the moment, a Paasche dual action, a cheap thing from Amazon and another cheap thing I bought at Canadian Tire (even though I work for Canada's other hardware retailer).  

 

I usually do my airbrushing inside, but if I use anything that had a strong odour I have to drag my compressor outside.  That can be a pain in the backside.

 

If I can ask, do you really get 30 minutes run time from the battery?

 

Thanks.

 

MJ.

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4 hours ago, Blackthorn said:

I like the look of that!  I have three airbrushes at the moment, a Paasche dual action, a cheap thing from Amazon and another cheap thing I bought at Canadian Tire (even though I work for Canada's other hardware retailer).  

 

I usually do my airbrushing inside, but if I use anything that had a strong odour I have to drag my compressor outside.  That can be a pain in the backside.

 

If I can ask, do you really get 30 minutes run time from the battery?

 

Thanks.

 

MJ.

 

Hi MJ.  My other brush is a Paasche as well.  IIRC, the battery will give you about 1 hour, more than enough for most jobs.  Just keep it on charge when finished.

 

Most things seem to be made in China these days, we probably couldn't afford them if they were made in the West.  I think the difference is whether the design is Chinese or North American.  The Chinese will make things to spec.

 

John

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A bit late to this thread, a cordless airbrush seems a good idea to supplement my normal setup, ordered from Amazon £58.98 sold under brand RIIAI, so not cheap cheap, looked identical to ones shown previously on this thread, warning my one was completely useless could not deliver any quantity of paint however thinned, I thick the air pressure was simply too low, I do use another airbrush successfully, just returned to Amazon for a refund.

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6 hours ago, fulton said:

A bit late to this thread, a cordless airbrush seems a good idea to supplement my normal setup, ordered from Amazon £58.98 sold under brand RIIAI, so not cheap cheap, looked identical to ones shown previously on this thread, warning my one was completely useless could not deliver any quantity of paint however thinned, I thick the air pressure was simply too low, I do use another airbrush successfully, just returned to Amazon for a refund.

 

I have a similar cordless air brush that in my opinion has been very useful. I use enamel paints exclusively and as long as the paint is on the thin end of `milky` mine works well.

I only use cheap white spirit as paint thinner and airbrush cleaner as I would imagine that the seals on this kind of airbrush will most likely melt away with stronger cleaners like Acetone and Xylene.

 

like all airbrushes you need to follow the cleanliness code.....

 

 

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On 22/09/2022 at 17:11, brossard said:

 

Hi MJ.  My other brush is a Paasche as well.  IIRC, the battery will give you about 1 hour, more than enough for most jobs.  Just keep it on charge when finished.

 

Most things seem to be made in China these days, we probably couldn't afford them if they were made in the West.  I think the difference is whether the design is Chinese or North American.  The Chinese will make things to spec.

 

John

Thank's John.

 

Sorry for the late reply. I've been transferred back to Ontario ....Oh the joys of the GTA....

 

I've ordered one. we'll see. I hope it works as well as Rosspops.  

 

MJ

 

 

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  • 3 months later...
On 29/09/2022 at 23:33, Torper said:

Have heard nothing from the OP since his initial posting - I wonder if he came to a decision?  In view of all the helpful postings it would be nice to know.


Hi.

 

Just wanted to say I am in the process of reading the posts on this thread. I’m just starting to look at an airbrush for track weathering (initially), but it will get used for other things in due course. 
 

So, your post (and all the others) has not gone unnoticed or considered.

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

 

PS - I was a good boy and used the search function for ‘airbrushes. No such luck re tips for track weathering!

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