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Pottendorf Eine Sekundärbahn in Bayern


Guest Jack Benson
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Guest Jack Benson

The contents of the thread was removed after another attempt to misquote the text for whatever reason. 

Edited by Jack Benson
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Hi Tim,

Please forgive the way I “predicted” this, I was so shocked that you would give up on the various benefits of good running etc that is so difficult to achieve, I was probably rather rude!

Anyway, it’s great to see you back and I hope your health is fair.

Cheers,

 John 

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  • 4 weeks later...
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The odd couplings are the older version of Roco DCC electromagnetic couplings. I suppose you run the loco on DCC, if you want to use the couplings some care is necessary as the maximum time on power needs to be programmed, as well as a holding voltage value (keeps coupling open for a given time without overheating).

 

The shape of the coupling is the Roco universal coupling, which is a coupling with very low friction. This is useful if you want to couple a light wagon with good bearings, as it will not run away so easily.

 

I show you an example - this little video is also made to show a moving pantograph (added by me, meanwhile there are many RTR models with moving pantos on the market), so you need a little patience to see the coupling/uncoupling.

just click on the photo which brings you into Flickr to start the video. By the way the coupling I use on this loco is from Krois Modell, but the functionality is the same as the Roco one. 

 

49903436483_301591ee90_h.jpg2 0151009192813

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Just one thing to add: the universal coupling does couple with the standard continental hook and loop coupling. I went a different way and purchased 100 universal couplings and changed all my wagons to this one. (coaches are on Roco short couplings, with the outer ones on universal couplings. 

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9 hours ago, Jack Benson said:

as I do not possess a lathe therefore something will need to be adapted

If it is not more than two - send me a drawing and I make them for you. My Chester DB8 is waiting for work....🙂

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You mentioned somewhere  (I can't quite remember where!) that you were looking for a suitable water column for your new epic. Don't bother! Apparently, the Bavarians built their loco sheds with water tanks in the roof space but didn't provide traditional type columns. Locos had to move into the sheds themselves to take on water. 

 

I only discovered this having bought a water column for my layout and then was puzzled when I couldn't find any photos of any on the internet or in magazines or books on Bavarian nebenbahnen. It seems also to have puzzled German modellers until someone posted photos of a loco taking on water inside the shed at Tegernsee on one or other of the forums (fora?) a while back.

 

All the best

 

David C

 

 

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  • Guest changed the title to Pottendorf Eine Sekundärbahn in Bayern
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Interesting to read your comments about Roco locos. I only have one, their BR64, bought new not so very long ago. Apart from losing odd bits, the main problem I have with it is the method  of removing and then replacing the body. This is actually in two parts: the boiler and the cab. Between the two are several bits of straight wire and a number of plastic ones attached to some very fine mouldings of valves and connectors. In order to fit the boiler and cab back together, all of these have to be put back together. Its not a problem unless you have only the usual complement of fingers as supplied by one's parents. The first time I tried to get the body/cab back onto the chassis after oiling the loco as per the instructions, it took me a mere 90 minutes. The second time I tried it (after its running became somewhat lumpy due to dirty wheels and wipers), during the ensuing hour plus, I broke some of the mouldings.  Roco kindly sent me a replacement at a cost of about 10 euros plus postage. If I break the same mouldings each time I attempt to service the damn thing, I'll probably have to sell a kidney! My 64 is a beautiful model, but only to look at. As a working loco, it's pretty much useless. I didn't buy their recently introduced BR 86 as a result even though I was very tempted.

 

I envy you your acquisition of the 98.8xx. I have one and it's one of my favourites, albeit rather noisy. Apparently, they have a reputation in this respect, but I quietened mine down by using some Carr's microgrease (which I don't think is available anymore) rather than the recommended Fleischmann oil. I wonder if Roco will re-introduce it as they have done the BR70. If they do, I really hope they wont re-design it!

 

Looking forward to seeing progress on Pottendorf.

 

Regards

 

David C

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Please do keep updating! You have at least one member of RMWeb who is interested.

 

The photo above is also quite interesting. Apart from the BR89, there is an electric steeple cab on the left - it looks a bit like the old Triang steeple cab that was around in the 1950s or 60s. The wagons behind the the 89 look as though they are loaded with coal or some version of it as it is quite matt. (Brown coal? Briquettes?) The wagons are loaded above the top of the sides, so it looks as though I may have to make my H0 scale removeable loads higher.

 

All the best.

 

David C

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22 hours ago, Jack Benson said:

I have been in the same place some years ago and regretted my decision, time for a re-think?

 

Just a personal opinion but are Kadees the go-to couplings? 
Let me explain, the big layout is not intended for public display but the micro-diorama is most definitely for the public.
The two have very different requirements i.e. about thirty items of rolling stock (the passenger in fixed rakes) and just four wagons for t’other.


Rather than Kadees for both layouts, maybe use the Piko coupling and fit the vestigial hook (Weinert sell them) to locos? Uncoupling either by micro-magnet on a stick lifting the metal loop or bent piece of plastic (Maerklin sell them) lifting the loop from below. An alternative to the Weinert hook, is simply to remove the loop from the standard Piko coupling, whilst the micro-diorama can use the Kadees.
 

Why, because I prefer to couple wherever I choose rather than fixed locations and it gives me a reason to get physically involved with operation (I am the duty shunter) AND because Piko’s coupling in whatever fitting is the industry standard and no need for surgery to delicate older models.


Any comment would be welcome.

 

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i've had the same dilemma, on my small German layout i'm building and opted to use small Bachmann couplings with Nem pockets,( to use like Kirby couplings) there more reliable than the European couplers and to me they don't look out of place

 

IMG_20230227_112713.jpg.887e740f79fd854d62c9d1d602706d43.jpg

Edited by long island jack
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I still prefer Kadee’s, having used them on a previous US layout.

I’ve started to fit them to my HO DR stock, usually with success. It’s just working out the types that are needed, as it varies according to the stock. For example, the Roco Reko passenger coaches, I use 17’s one end and 18’s the other end. But then they’re permanently couple rakes.

I’ve seen a hook and a bar used on O scale models, the hook one end and the bar the other, it does make shunting a lot easier than 3 link couplings, but realism, well, everyone to their own.

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About 30 years ago I adopted the Roco close coupling type.

I then found that they also worked on UK coaches.

Later Hornby started using them. Hornby are a slightly different length and a combination of the two will give a good result on mixed brands.

Suits me just fine.

Bernard 

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I think some of it with not only couplings, is that modellers see it affecting their resale value, and also many modellers are no more than collectors.

I have a friend who has a considerable number of European locos, mostly modern, but one of each, along with numerous rolling stock, including duplicates so he can make up reasonable looking trains, but they’re all shiny and unaltered.

Therefore by the nature of this, then those of us who do modify stock are probably in a very small minority.

 

Brian

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