Above baseboard turnout control--options

[Guest Jack Benson]

Hi,

 

I never thought that I would find myself asking for assistance but the guy who normally helps out with the bits that I can no longer manage to access has contracted covid, he is not at all well. Whilst I am no longer physically able to do certain things that were once 'normal' and I am trying to build a simplified layout that is accessible and 'disabled' friendly. The five baseboards are awaiting the Peco code 75 track and subsequent turnout motor installation, wiring, etc. Rather than abandon the task, I can lay and wire  the track by the simple expedient of burying the feeds in the cork but access to subroad turnout motors is a no-go hence the title of the query.

 

I have never used mechanical above baseboard turnout control, which system is the most discrete and is suitable for burying within the cork that covers the entire layout. I assume a simple electrical switch will double as the both the turnout lever and crossing vee-polarity switch but is Mercontrol still a 'thing' if not what is the modern substitute?

 

I did an internet search for mechanical turnout control but only images of bullfrog and bluepoint systems were found, both are unsuitable for the reasons already mentioned at the outset.

 

Thank you for any and all suggestions.

 

StaySafe 

[johndon]

4 hours ago, Jack Benson said:

I assume a simple electrical switch will double as the both the turnout lever and crossing vee-polarity switch

 

Whilst I'm using above board rods on my current layout they are operated by servos but I used exactly what you describe on my previous layout - slide switches with a hole drilled through the switch for the operating rod so turnout control and polarity switching in one...

[Gordon A]

You could use either point motors or servos mounted above base board, hidden in buildings etc.

Connection could be by "wire in tube".

[Wheatley]

Mercontrol is still a thing, available these days from Antics Online- https://anticsonline.uk/Category/MerControl_N1587

 

The tube is PTFE rather than copper now, I stick it down with blobs of hot glue. Make sure the end of the steel wire is thoroughly de-burred before you push it through as the PTFE is much easier to clog than the copper. 

 

These are Hattons point motors which will eventually be hidden under a bridge abutment. One arm of the built-in crank operates the Mercontrol wire, the other operates a microswitch to switch the crossing polarity. 

[ColinK]

Cheap solutions I’ve used are bits of leftover rail (on its side) or rods made from metal coathangers.

[ianathompson]

12 hours ago, ColinK said:

heap solutions I’ve used are bits of leftover rail (on its side) or rods made from metal coathangers.

 

I have used a similar system to this for some time.

Solder a hook, or whatever, onto the end of the rail to engage the tiebar.

Lay the control "handle" on the baseboard top and secure it with screws.

These can be tightened or slackened off as needed to make sure that the blades stay in place.

 

I also solder a "finger" to the rod to activate the micro-switches controlling crossing polarity.

 

 

The photo shows a handbuilt 3 way point at one of the stations on my layout which still awaits scenery.

The operating rods and microswitches can easily be seen in the background.

The wiring is above board because there is another level below and one above.

 

Ian T