Chassis for SR E1 0-6-0T

[Coromar]

Hi All,

 

I have already e-mailed MSC models who used to have an E1 in their range but haven't had a reply yet. I will try Roxey Mouldings and ABS (if I can find who took them over). Thanks for the info. Mike and Nick.

 

I enclose a picture of the body shell, and I confirm it has no cab splashers - yet.

 

Best wishes,

 

Paul

[doilum]

Looks like a neat bit of scratch building.or possibly one of the brass kits that pre dated etching techniques. Definitely worth saving. If space is tight the front axle can be positioned 0.7mm forward leaving the rear axle just 1mm aft. Slaters do the correct wheel which appears from the Wikipedia photos to have a short crank throw. An important consideration when building tank locomotives with deep splashers .

[Nick Holliday]

3 hours ago, Coromar said:

Hi All,

 

I have already e-mailed MSC models who used to have an E1 in their range but haven't had a reply yet. I will try Roxey Mouldings and ABS (if I can find who took them over). Thanks for the info. Mike and Nick.

 

I enclose a picture of the body shell, and I confirm it has no cab splashers - yet.

 

Best wishes,

 

Paul

I don’t want to be a Jeremiah but what you have is a D1 0-4-2T,  

The larger front splasher and the shorter bunker are the clear markers.

photos courtesy of SmuMug.

[doilum]

Even easier to scratch build then.  Just remember to check the crankpin throw when ordering a set of wheels. And at least twenty quid less than you feared! Having said that, those trailing wheels are a unique size and you might have to order the nearest driving wheel size and perform some careful surgery around the crankpin boss. Still worth doing though.

The LNER G5 had 7'9" coupling rods available from PC. Slaters do the correct short throw Wheels. They also do a 4'7" driver designed for an outside frame GWR loco. This is close enough to the 4'6" trailing wheels of the D1.

Edited December 5, 2022 by doilum
Additional information

[Coromar]

Dear Jeremiah,

 

You have really put the cat amongst the pigeons! When I get back to England I will measure the body against the drawings in the Southern Railway Engines and hopefully come up with the definite answer.

 

Someone thought it was a D3 0-4-4, so lots to play for!

 

Thanks for your input,

 

Best wishes,

 

Paul 

Edited December 5, 2022 by Coromar
add correct engine wheel base

[bluestag]

Well, it's a nice bit of building, either way.     A 0-4-2 is a charming arrangement.

[Nick Holliday]

15 hours ago, doilum said:

Even easier to scratch build then.  Just remember to check the crankpin throw when ordering a set of wheels. And at least twenty quid less than you feared! Having said that, those trailing wheels are a unique size and you might have to order the nearest driving wheel size and perform some careful surgery around the crankpin boss. Still worth doing though.

The LNER G5 had 7'9" coupling rods available from PC. Slaters do the correct short throw Wheels. They also do a 4'7" driver designed for an outside frame GWR loco. This is close enough to the 4'6" trailing wheels of the D1.

Slaters list both drivers and trailing wheels specifically for the D1 such as here

https://slatersplastikard.com/linePage.php?suffix=JPG&code=7853LB

[RodneyS]

16 hours ago, Coromar said:

Someone thought it was a D3 0-4-4, so lots to play for!

Definitely not a D3 as your model has a Stroudley cab roof.

Rodney

https://www.lbscr.org/Rolling-Stock/Locomotives/R.J.Billinton/D3.xhtml

[RodneyS]

This is a link to the D1 locos.  If you scroll down to number 247 you will find a picture of a D1 with a Marsh boiler and fittings.  This seems to match your model.

https://www.lbscr.org/Rolling-Stock/Locomotives/Stroudley/D1.xhtml

 

It does look to be nicely made and well worth completing.

Rodney

[doilum]

Just a thought that occurred to me as I tidied up my modelling bench.

If you were to explore the plastikard chassis option the better method of drilling out for the axle bushes , having drilled 1mm pilot holes and separated the two frame blanks, is to open them out to almost the full size in a.single shot using a wood working bit. These have a sharp point that will centre on your pilot hole and the outer cutting edge is a complete circle and will not twist and snag the plastikard.

I suddenly remembered why there were a few random wood bits in my modelling draw as opposed to being in the outer workshop with the pillar drill and all the various other bits. The wood bits can even be used on thin brass 

[TJ52]

According to to the advert in the current Gauge 0 Guild Gazette, Roxey Mouldings have taken over the Albion models range which included a D1 0-4-2.

 

Perhaps a call to Dave at Roxey might be helpful?

 

Terry

[Coromar]

Thanks to everybody who has helped me with my project.

 

I love the idea of using wood drills for the plasticard thanks for that Doilum.

 

I think a D1 it will be, but I will check my books when I get back to England to choose the actual loco.

 

Best wishes,

 

Paul