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Hornby Schools; DCC Ready


Mallard60022

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By any chance has anyone had to resolder any of/the 4 wires from the Tender Connection/ Plug/Socket, to the DCC Baseplate at the rear of the Loco Chassis? There are 4 wires...all Black!

I have a perfectly good Schools that came with the 4 wires 'chopped' between the Tender and Loco and two broken away from the Tender end Plug, where it fits into the Tender Socket.

Auction item described as 'needing repairs to Loco Tender connection'. This was the only faut as far as I can tell. 

I ask as I am not sure which wire will go where as they, as stated, are all Black! No real clue as to which wire comes from where on the Loco or the Tender (both ends look like a nest of Vipers). The Decoder is fitted in the Tender, Motor in Loco. I am assuming that two wires are for Motor and Two are for Chassis/Pickups but there are pickups on Loco and Tender

I can attempt the repair with a replacement Part I have ordered (Plug and wires) and hopefully get it to work on DC, as there is a Blanking Plug in the Decoder baseplate, so I won't blow a Decoder (hopefully).

I have had one helpful suggestion elsewhere, as to which of the 4 wires is which, BUT it would be great to confirm those connections here if possible.

I can supply pics if required but the Plate in the Loco is very small indeed. 

IF the wires had just been 'cut', but not with two pulled out of the plug, then I would have just rejoined them; nothing though is ever that simple, is it?

Many thanks,

Phil

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the way I have done this in the past is to use  a  spare wired 4 pin plug (e-bay from China) and use a multimeter to determine which pin is which with the blanking plug removed. Then solder inside the loco.

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8 minutes ago, CHAZ D said:

the way I have done this in the past is to use  a  spare wired 4 pin plug (e-bay from China) and use a multimeter to determine which pin is which with the blanking plug removed. Then solder inside the loco.

Someone else suggested this, but please don't laugh, I have no idea how to use the multimeter in this way. I had considered refitting a Decoder into the Loco, BUT there seems to be so much pick up coming from the Tender.

Cheers,

Phil

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I've done a King Arthur but in my case only one wire was broken so I knew which wires went into which socket. I suggest you'll need to take the body off the tender and see where the wires go, and then take the body off the loco and match the them up. When I did mine,  I soldered the replacement wires to the existing wires internally, using some shrink-wrap for insulation. 

 

You'll need to ensure that the pickup wires from the tender match those from the loco since otherwise you'll get a short. Also trim the new wires so that you don't end up with excessive slack between engine and tender.

 

I'm not sure whether all Hornby locos follow the same wiring standard but it should be easy to check. 

 

Seems someone has had this problem before - see this thread https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/96193-repairing-Hornby-4-pin-loco-to-tender-electrical-plug/

Edited by RFS
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3 hours ago, CHAZ D said:

A handy tutorial on How to use a multimeter

 

 

 

 

 

Without watching the video. . . OoBill ( I recognise the towel, long fingers and hairy arms !

 

Get past the ' dour Scotsman voice ( hes actually a great guy), lives not a million miles from me and carries out free repairs for those who cant manage it. He  videos his work to show others how to do the service or repair and he is NOT monetised, doe's it cos he enjoys it. . Be warned some methods MAY make SOME wince but, he shows that it's not THAT hard and has encouraged/ enabled others to 'have a go'  Doesn't do DCC and mainly older models but worth a watch, especially for those beginers with older models who don't know what to do

 

👌

Edited by Matt C
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17 minutes ago, Matt C said:

 

 

Without watching the video. . . OoBill ( I recognise the towel, long fingers and hairy arms !

 

Get past the ' dour Scotsman voice ( hes actually a great guy), lives not a million miles from me and carries out free repairs for those who cant manage it. He  videos his work to show others how to do the service or repair and he is NOT monetised, doe's it cos he enjoys it. . Be warned some methods MAY make SOME wince but, he shows that it's not THAT hard and has encouraged/ enabled others to 'have a go'  Doesn't do DCC and mainly older models but worth a watch, especially for those beginers with older models who don't know what to do

 

👌

That's really thoughtful of you to create that link Matt. He seems like my sort of guy.

 

3 hours ago, CHAZ D said:

A handy tutorial on How to use a multimeter

 

 

 

My Meter, so that's really useful.

I keep forgetting to check U Tube, despite replacing a Reed Switch in a failed Dishwasher of ours a few weeks back, having checked U Tube! It was a successful repair for the cost of the spare part, obtained within 48 hours via an On-Line Trader.

Hey ho.

Phil

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5 hours ago, RFS said:

I've done a King Arthur but in my case only one wire was broken so I knew which wires went into which socket. I suggest you'll need to take the body off the tender and see where the wires go, and then take the body off the loco and match the them up. When I did mine,  I soldered the replacement wires to the existing wires internally, using some shrink-wrap for insulation. 

 

You'll need to ensure that the pickup wires from the tender match those from the loco since otherwise you'll get a short. Also trim the new wires so that you don't end up with excessive slack between engine and tender.

 

I'm not sure whether all Hornby locos follow the same wiring standard but it should be easy to check. 

 

Seems someone has had this problem before - see this thread https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/96193-repairing-Hornby-4-pin-loco-to-tender-electrical-plug/

An absolutely brilliant link, thank you. Sort of reassured it's quite a common problem.

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