Dean 8'6" Bogie Drawings

[kandc_au]

12 hours ago, Harlequin said:

Thanks Russ,

 

The drawing of the 8ft6 bogie from the lecture pamphlet is the very one that is reproduced in Russell's Coaches  Vol1 and Coaches Appendix Vol1, along with a significant chunk of the lecture text. I started using the drawing in Russell and then JimC mentioned that a PDF version of the lecture is stored on the GWR e-list and I have been using that since.

 

I'd like to see the versions on the OneDrive link you posted but sadly none of the PDFs work for me. They won't download or view online.

 

Try saving as a download, then open the pdf file.
Seems it is a zip file so needs to be opened first!

Khris

[Harlequin]

The Sketchup community provided the answer to the creation of the volute springs in the form of two free extensions to the program: One to draw spirals and another to bend a predrawn shape along that spiral.

 

It took several attempts but job done!

 

Edited December 30, 2022 by Harlequin

[Harlequin]

I've done the "buckets" around the volute springs and chosen to use the newer scroll irons all round:

 

If anyone's interested you can examine the 3D model here: https://app.connect.trimble.com/tc/api/2.0/s/ZJ1cH3D2CfmrDPqAjcsKeKTT7BTi2lmPBmWU-Qxx5bHRRwsHa2dZJnKtfPx7VIca

 

You can pan rotate and look around using the three mouse buttons and zoom in and out using the mouse wheel. Feel free to let me know of any problems - some of the details are educated guesswork.

 

Subject to corrections and minor fixes I think this is ready to try adapting into a 3D printable model.

 

[Harlequin]

This morning I've been all around the model fattening things up and filling things in to make it printable at 4mm scale. I also found some very useful tools for checking models before they are printed and a new version of the STL export filter that copes with mirrored components properly - very imporant because a lot of the components are flipped and duplicated versions of each other so that changing one changes them all.

 

While the 3D printer is humming away at a first attempt here are some other bogies for comparison...

 

An old white metal casting of the Dean 8ft6 bogie (K's?). The is the one I'm really trying to replace:

 

The Hornby/Tri-ang version of the Dean 10ft bogie, as found under the clerestory stock:

 

And a Shapeways print:

[chuffinghell]

Apologies if you’ve already answered this but what software are you using?

 

Chris

[Harlequin]

42 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

Apologies if you’ve already answered this but what software are you using?

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

I'm using Sketchup Pro. It's probably not as sophisticated as your package but it's so beautifully natural to use.

 

[Harlequin]

Here's the first print in gory detail, then:

 

 

 

 

All sorts of problems!

The slicing software added big flat deltas between the diagonal braces. It's a bug and I couldn't get rid of it.

The supports have become disconnected in various places and so parts of the model are distorted - I think I made them too fine.

Some of the supports merged with parts of the the model. I'm going to have add all supports by hand, not use the automatic thing at all.

And I think I'l have to make the structure stronger for it to be a working bogie.

 

But the detail is good - better than the bogies above. The cross girders really are connected to the bogie only by the suspension rods. 

 

In the end I'll probably print the cross girders and the scroll irons as separate parts. And maybe it's too much to expect the brake rigging to be part of the print - although the printer made a valiant effort.

 

[chuffinghell]

Not bad for a first print though, I’ve usually thrown five away before I get anything half decent

 

I usually either have too many supports and break something while removing them or too few supports and end up with epic fails

 

I’m beginning to think 3D printing is more of a mystical art than a science

[stevel]

I have managed to find time to finish the design work and printed the first couple of prototypes.

the most prototypical version was too flexible, so I added in bracing where it won't be seen.

Printed on the Anycubic mono SE, with Siraya tech navy grey, with Blu for added cracking resistance.

[Harlequin]

Hi Steve,

You got some nice clean prints there!

Can I ask what slicing software you are using? (Because Chitubox is creating slices for me where there is nothing in the model.)

And what did your support structure look like?

 

[drduncan]

5 hours ago, Harlequin said:

Hi Steve,

You got some nice clean prints there!

Can I ask what slicing software you are using? (Because Chitubox is creating slices for me where there is nothing in the model.)

And what did your support structure look like?

 

There is a bug in the latest release of Chutibox- its on the support community reporting site and has been for months, but no fix yet. I got round it be going back to v1.9.2.

 

Duncan

[drduncan]

16 hours ago, stevel said:

I have managed to find time to finish the design work and printed the first couple of prototypes.

the most prototypical version was too flexible, so I added in bracing where it won't be seen.

Printed on the Anycubic mono SE, with Siraya tech navy grey, with Blu for added cracking resistance.

That is seriously impressive! What settings were you using for your blend of Siraya resins and what proportion of fast navy grey to Blu did you use? Also what print angle?

 

Duncan

[chuffinghell]

6 hours ago, Harlequin said:

Hi Steve,

You got some nice clean prints there!

Can I ask what slicing software you are using? (Because Chitubox is creating slices for me where there is nothing in the model.)

And what did your support structure look like?

 

Agree, I would also be interested in the support structure.

[stevel]

I am using Lychee slicer, the free version, I use light supports without a raft, as the raft always adds warping to the model.

the resin mix is 25% of the Blu, but once I run out of Blu I will switch to Tenacious. Siraya resins do need to be 25C or warmer, otherwise the first part of the model is distorted. Support pics give an idea of layout.

[stevel]

this is what they are designed for, now I get to try out my new Anycubic mono X. wish me luck.

[MrWolf]

Now that is going to be interesting to see.

[richbrummitt]

15 hours ago, stevel said:

I am using Lychee slicer, the free version, I use light supports without a raft, as the raft always adds warping to the model.

the resin mix is 25% of the Blu, but once I run out of Blu I will switch to Tenacious. Siraya resins do need to be 25C or warmer, otherwise the first part of the model is distorted. Support pics give an idea of layout.

Thank you for your informed reply to previous posters. I’m curious to know more about your warping and distortion comments: I’ve almost always printed with a raft and had convinced myself that the distortion occurred when removing the print from the build plate prior to curing, to the extent that I’ve previously completed some prints by curing whilst still on the build plate. Recently I have seen an increase in distortion in my first layers of part that I have been unable to eliminate with stronger supports.
 

 

Note the sag/bend in the louvres towards the corners. I’m wondering if this is to do with the cold and am interested to know your thoughts. Is your warp/distortion similar? 
 

[drduncan]

19 hours ago, stevel said:

this is what they are designed for, now I get to try out my new Anycubic mono X. wish me luck.

Almost snap!....

 

Its a E19 or E 20 (not sure which) convertible brake tri-composite, but mine needs Dean 6'4" bogies which I have drawn up as both standard gauge and broad gauge. But I don't have a printer big enough to do it (yet). I lust after an M3 max which would also allow Dreadnought and Concertina coaches....

 

Duncan

[stevel]

14 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

Thank you for your informed reply to previous posters. I’m curious to know more about your warping and distortion comments: I’ve almost always printed with a raft and had convinced myself that the distortion occurred when removing the print from the build plate prior to curing, to the extent that I’ve previously completed some prints by curing whilst still on the build plate. Recently I have seen an increase in distortion in my first layers of part that I have been unable to eliminate with stronger supports.
 

 

Note the sag/bend in the louvres towards the corners. I’m wondering if this is to do with the cold and am interested to know your thoughts. Is your warp/distortion similar? 
 

when I first started printing, that the raft would warp, well before the print dried after cleaning. So switched to printing without the raft, which had 2 benefits, 1: less warping and 2: easier to get off the build plate. But I still got some warping so did some research online and temperature was something which came up, quite often. I purchased a small 6 watt reptile heater, and placed it under the printer with the cardboard box over top to contain the heat, which helped, but did not eliminate it. I had tried heating the resin before printing but it was not practical. When I switched to Siraya Tech and started l turning on the printer a couple of hours before printing, was when I got the best results.

 Image 1 is Anycubic resin preheated and poured in then printed. Notice that once the printer warmed up the print is very clean, the Siraya resin is less likely to do this at the same temperatures.

 Image 2 is Siraya Tech mix with all the heating etc.

[stevel]

10 hours ago, drduncan said:

Almost snap!....

 

Its a E19 or E 20 (not sure which) convertible brake tri-composite, but mine needs Dean 6'4" bogies which I have drawn up as both standard gauge and broad gauge. But I don't have a printer big enough to do it (yet). I lust after an M3 max which would also allow Dreadnought and Concertina coaches....

 

Duncan

Very nice, I also have the E39 Falmouth coupe ready the go, but this one I have done the chassis separately, so we will see which one works best.

Fortunately the dreadnoughts didn't head down the Falmouth branch.

Edited January 5, 2023 by stevel
add a picture

[Western Star]

On 03/01/2023 at 00:29, stevel said:

Printed on the Anycubic mono SE, with Siraya tech navy grey, with Blu for added cracking resistance.

What is "Blu"?  How does it improve the printed product?

 

thank you, Graham

[stevel]

10 hours ago, Western Star said:

What is "Blu"?  How does it improve the printed product?

 

thank you, Graham

Blu is what they call a tough resin, it helps keep some flexibility and makes the final product less brittle, Tenacious is probably the better one to mix, so I will switch once the Blu has been used up.

[drduncan]

@stevel Do you have your own 3d printing thread as I'd love to see more of your work. The S6 Tadpole - have you articulated the 6w chassis or is it rigid? I'm working on a load of BG fish 6w wish wagons and I've put a 3d printed cleminson style chassis under them but getting enough sideways movement is a bit of a problem.  

 

Duncan

[stevel]

5 hours ago, drduncan said:

@stevel Do you have your own 3d printing thread as I'd love to see more of your work. The S6 Tadpole - have you articulated the 6w chassis or is it rigid? I'm working on a load of BG fish 6w wish wagons and I've put a 3d printed cleminson style chassis under them but getting enough sideways movement is a bit of a problem.  

 

Duncan

I should probably start my own thread, with the S6 I have been experimenting with a floating centre axle, but have issues with geting enough sideways movement, it works for a radius of 4'6" !. I have thought of just using the cleminson, but I have quite a few 6 wheel coaches in the works, so it wood be nice to figure it out.

[drduncan]

Have you looked at the Dart/MJT 6w set up? I like them because you can assemble them without solder! It would mean adjusting your prints to be without W irons (but I've successfully printed U29/20/28 6w composites with the j hangers and springs only to use etched W irons behind.

D