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Bachmann/Spectrum The Rocket, how to get in!


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  • RMweb Gold

I have one of these interesting rail cars in my hands and need to service the motor etc. beggered if I can work out how to get in

 

3E3A3D4A-A903-4A89-B1B7-BA5BDD275E63.jpeg.39a8d2f597333827e85d8139f704847a.jpeg

 

There’s two screws underneath but taking them out seems to make no difference. Hopefully someone knows the answer 🙏🏻

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  • RMweb Gold

I have certainly taken one apart a couple of decades ago when it was new - I added DCC. As I'm in the UK I can't check mine, sadly, for another fortnight. Simply unclipping the bodyshell sometimes is enough, though. The chassis is very front-heavy, I remember that!

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  • RMweb Gold
54 minutes ago, RedgateModels said:

I have one of these interesting rail cars in my hands and need to service the motor etc. beggered if I can work out how to get in

 

3E3A3D4A-A903-4A89-B1B7-BA5BDD275E63.jpeg.39a8d2f597333827e85d8139f704847a.jpeg

 

There’s two screws underneath but taking them out seems to make no difference. Hopefully someone knows the answer 🙏🏻


it’s a Doodlebug if you’re searching for guides 😉 Ah lots of clips it seems according to this,

 

https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/142429.aspx

 

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@PaulRhB looks to have found the answer - I was searching using the Spectrum product code (#81408) and not having much luck.  I think the key is to treat the body removal more like a passenger car than a locomotive - 4 clips each side seems right to me.

 

I was looking at some Bachmann On30 cars at a club meet this afternoon and assembly was based on the principle of things just clipping together.  I must admit I do put my heart in my mouth the first time I unclip the body of a new purchase though.

 

I did find online instructions for an N scale version which backs up @Oldddudders comment on the HO chassis being front heavy: the motor was entirely in the baggage compartment (fair enough) but there was no sign of any weight at the rear.

 

Be good to see some photos when you get inside for reference if that’s OK.  Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, RedgateModels said:

Next issue is there’s clearly split gears in the drive bogie, now, how to get that apart ………


https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HODoodlebug_Chassis.pdf


I’d guess from that the bottom retaining plate is attached by the clips either side of the bogie block so the end of a screwdriver should let you ease them off one at a time. 

Edited by PaulRhB
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11 minutes ago, RedgateModels said:

Oh dear 😔

 

DSC_0009.JPG.559938880f3ccb4d46e1178ab5af1d61.JPG


Unfortunately common on this era of Spectrum models, I had to replace the gears on the shay and a couple of large scale items. Then the US consolidation got mazak rot along with the QJ’s! 

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Not an insurmountable problem though, here are some I drew and printed for the Bachmann 44/70/Underground Ernie chassis. They are a standard grey resin and haven't seemed to have worn, although they'd be better in an ABS-like resin.

PXL_20220708_104539103.jpg

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Shape ways do them too, but it's a bit immaterial as the owner does not want to spend any more on it. It's destined to be a siding filler.

 

the postage costs from Shapeways really kills things for small items like these

Edited by RedgateModels
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I have a similar problem with an Athearn Blue Box GP9 (in my case it is axle muffs that have split, not individual gears).  It's been suggested I try a baking soda and superglue mix that should fix them.

There's a thread in the other US & Can Sub-Forum (work in progress) with the details and a video tutorial (not by me).

It's still in my "to do" pile, but if the alternative is a static exhibit I wonder if the owner might let you have a go?  Just a thought, Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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The Bachmann N gauge tram models experience the split gear problems on a regular basis - even the later Peter Witt models - and I've lost a couple to that problem.

The G scale ones also had a tendency for the gears to split, though I did actually manage to repair one of mine using superglue so it still works, after a fashion....

Not had that problem with any of the N locos as yet.

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