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What height should a base board be?


Coromar
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Hi All,

 

I am about to start building an O gauge layout in my new shed. I am 6ft 2ins tall and hate bending down too much if I can help it. My last layout was in the loft and had to be lower than I really wanted.

 

I am thinking that 3ft 6ins to 4ft high would be fine for me, but I wonder how high other people have their baseboards at.

 

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Best wishes,

 

Paul 

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Mine are at 44 inches, but I'm short. 

 

When I was first thinking about this I did a simple experiment. Bit of wood, say 4 foot by 2 foot ish and some cardboard boxes. I sat boxes on a table with the wood on top, then put an old bit of track and some wagons on it. A few old buildings too. 

 

Then I played a bit. Moved a few wagons . Reached over. Sat on a chair.  Tried different boxes. Squinted at it all. Played a bit more. 

 

That way I ended up with a height that suits me.  Everyone is different, easy to do a mock up and adjust to suit. 

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I have baseboards made from my old bookcase, on old angle iron shelf brackets, around the walls of my cupboard which is 7x3. The door is at one end so a lifting flap completes the double oval and let's me get in. Our remaining dining room chair is in the middle, so I have to sit with the layout on my right shoulder. Perfect for eye level when sitting. Standing, the layout is 3'3" high or belly height! It is placed thus so I can have my loco racks around the walls and plenty of storage under, with a work area central. The cupboard is the only place I can model so have adapted accordingly and it works for me. Are you going to be mainly sitting when operating and what kind of chair will you use? Start with that and a good working height will present itself. Adjustable office chairs are OK but get a GOOD one. A late friend of mine used his old armchair in his shed so his layout was about 30 inches high. Perfect at 50% recline!

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I'm 6' 1" and my O gauge layout main boards are 45" floor to track level at their lowest. I find this fine both in terms of height and reach. I have a 2 step stool with raised handles which I find very handy to extend reach. My North American layout is set in the Rockies and my highest line is nearly 70" above floor level, different access problems arose here - sorted by careful planning - i.e trial and error.

 

We are all different, chose a baseboard height you are comfortable with, factor in reach (everything awkward happens a few inches beyond your maximum reach - don't ask me how I know !!. As we all get older, remember to design in access locations, duckunder heights and positions (if any) etc.

 

Best wishes with your layout.

 

Brit15

 

 

 

 

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As I always seam to end up having to either add or fix something to the underside of the baseboard, I opted for a baseboard height where I could comfortably sit on the floor, and work at the problem.

 

The height will vary person to person!

 

Paul

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8 minutes ago, PaulG said:

As I always seam to end up having to either add or fix something to the underside of the baseboard, I opted for a baseboard height where I could comfortably sit on the floor, and work at the problem.

 

The height will vary person to person!

 

Paul

Sitting on the floor is not as easy (and kneeling is impossible) after a knee replacement. 

Lifting flaps aare easier than duckunders as you get older, but I can still use a mechanics creeper to get through a low duckunder. 

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It depends. The wider your baseboards the lower the layout needs to be in order for you to reach the track. I’m 6’ so I can get away with baseboards 2’ wide and 53” off the floor modelling in 4mm scale. It also depends on your type of operation. If you enjoy shunting higher is better, if you run in circles chair height is nice.

 

Cheers,

 

David

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3 hours ago, Michael Hodgson said:

Sitting on the floor is not as easy (and kneeling is impossible) after a knee replacement. 

 

Verifocal glasses and bad knees put an end to working sitting on the floor under a layout. Make provision, it may be fine now, but in twenty years?

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I'm 5'7".    My layout is 42" from the floor.   I can JUST get under it to work on it.   It is in my garage with a concrete floor.   I have a scoot around chair that has my bottom about an inch off the floor.    I have two bits of layout that are further than I can reach standing there.    I need step stools to reach the back.    Not the best plan, but I am greedy for track, you see.    My chum John has a very nice layout at 42", and he is a bit taller than me.    He seems to like it.    I do enjoy sitting down and admiring my trains at eye level.    My advice is to be able to fit under it, as you will be spending time down there.    And consider how you may prefer to see the sides of the trains rather than the roofs.    Some people would build near the average person's eye level.   Say 62".    But that makes having a deep layout very difficult.    Easy to get at from underneath, though!

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Although now dismantled my baseboards were at 54" high and I'm 5'8" tall.

 

To work on the boards I used to stand on a sturdy old coffee table which was about 18" high if I remember correctly.

 

So my suggestion is have it at a height which is comfortable for viewing and then make arrangements to stand on something strong and safe when working on the layout.

 

For instance you can buy the aluminium platforms for about £40 from Screwfix.

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62" means standing on a chair or step ladder to work on.   Mine was 00 gauge  and 60" top level and I could rest my chin on the baseboard top, but I needed to stand on a step ladder to do any work and that brought my head rather close to the light bulb...  However it looked great to view  standing up or sitting on a high stool.      There is no rule which says wiring has to be under a baseboard, not even DCC, it can be hidden under ballast or laid out like point or signal rodding Nor do point motors need to be under the baseboard, especially in 0 gauge

Currently I'm working on a layout at around 3ft /36" with an upper level  around 3ft 6" or 42"   36" is comfortable to work on up to about 30" in from the baseboard edge.  42" a bit of a strain even at the edge nearest the operating well.  I am around 5 ft 11" .      My garden line has a ground level section which is difficult to work on, actually I had to chisel  out an inch or so of concrete across the garden path to  lay it and you can't get to check vertical alignment.     I wouldn't go below about 24" working height, if it can be removed lifted and worked on no probs, but there are some good near floor level layouts on You Tube at  floor level, and then again there's some iffy ones.   There are a few G scale overhead or dado rail height layouts around , a model shop a Grosmont has one and Inverness Market had or has one if you like worms eye views.

So decide what is important to you, if you don't need access under why provide it. If its portable work on it at a comfortable height and then you can mount it high for running/ viewing.

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My layout is at a height that my outstretched arm is 5 or 6 inches above the main baseboard. When I reach over, I knock against chimney pots and signals -- if I have a bulky sweater on, it snags on them.  

I should have made it lower, but I used stock IKEA shelving. My wife is shorter and looks straight at the trains.

 

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You have the disadvantage of being tall.    I assume you want your chums to come around and play trains.    Low enough for them to see the trains.   If you are condemned to 3 links, as opposes to an automatic that does not require that you reach over, even lower.   Me?   I run Dinghams.     They are not as reliable as well fitted kadees, but they demand a LOT less intervention than 3 links.

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It depends, if you inteend exhibiting, remember the littl ones, 30 inches is probably a good compromise. If it's just for yourself, it is as has been said a trade-off between being able to reach the back of the layout and comfort whilst operating, I find 30 inches ideal when working at a desk but then I'm not as tall, say 3ft to 4ft max for yourself.

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Mine are 1200mm.  And it's a perfect height for me at 1.86m tall.

I made a series of little steps of varying heights for shorter people to stand on if needed.   Works well.

Viewing is much better with a higher baseboard.

Ian

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Unless you are planning a large complex layout, there is a good argument for building exhibition style boards. The extra cost of electrical connectors etc is offset by the convenience of taking pairs of boards to another location to work on.  I like to work with them on my " floating island" workbench in the garage/ workshop. This has the additional advantage of being able.to work on both sides easily and to roll them through 90 degrees to attend to points and wiring. 

Plus of course, if life throws you a curve ball, the layout can be relocated easily. As for height: what ever is most comfortable for you.

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22 hours ago, Coromar said:

Hi All,

 

I am about to start building an O gauge layout in my new shed. I am 6ft 2ins tall and hate bending down too much if I can help it. My last layout was in the loft and had to be lower than I really wanted.

 

I am thinking that 3ft 6ins to 4ft high would be fine for me, but I wonder how high other people have their baseboards at.

 

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

Best wishes,

 

Paul 

Hi, I am exactly your height and my baseboards are at 47" high which works perfectly for me, layout is used mostly at Exhibitions, is front operated and is 18inches wide.

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For myself,I made mine about waist hight,was easy to reach over to use 3 link couplings.These are boards that are 2 feet wide.

 

Phil

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