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My first official build log


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Hi all

After being massively inspired by @Booking Hall fantastic build of Brierley Canal Road I decided that it would be a good idea to start a build log, hoping for help, inspiration, suggestions, advice and also to motivate me to stick with the build and make progress.

I worked out a suitable track plan to share along four box files, trying to avoid a straight copy or Brierley (but there are only so many options to fit in a box file).

I have decided to use Peco Streamline Electrofrog points after reading multiple negative comments about using set track on a box file.

The Peco streamline points are longer than set track and so are a tight fit in the box files but i think its manageable.

 

I am an experienced modeller but am new to railways, just a long time lurker on here, so am learning the ropes.

Please see below images of my track plan plus a few pictures of where I am up to.

Thanks

Dave

 

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Hi David, good to see you posting here.  My suggestion would be to check that the two short curved sidings are long enough for a wagon to clear the point by enough for passing trains to get through.  With any micro-layout, space will always be tight, so choosing an industry / loading point for those sidings that can be served by short wagons could be key to success.

 

Keeping points off baseboard joins makes sense, but results in the kickback siding being awkward to access - as the headshunt for getting wagons in and out ends up shorter than the actual siding (because of the limitations of the box sizes).

 

One alternative I’d look at if this was for me would be something like this (I hope you don’t mind I borrowed your photo for this - hope that’s OK):

 

467A6DEE-51F8-4C2B-A311-1015B95F115F.jpeg.805d9165394d9845ddd84b836e51797e.jpeg

 

I’d think about joining up the lower short siding to make a loop that can be shunted from either end.  I’ve then suggested four wagon destinations (blue boxes), in addition to the upper short curved siding top right.

 

While there isn’t a kickback or switchback siding any more, it’s possible to put another industry at the far end, so shunting can still get complicated.  Just some thoughts - hope that’s alright.

 

As an aside, I just wondered if this had replaced the bigger room-sized layout idea from a couple of years back, or if it’s as well, or while that progresses?  Just curious, that’s all, Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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@Keith Addenbrooke Thanks for your reply, it makes interesting reading.

 

Of course I don't mind you using the image or for giving your thoughts, this is what I was hoping for.

 

I like your idea for joining up the short siding to make a loop, the only downside is that it means all my box to box joints are two lanes rather than varying it up and having only one lane in at least one joint, but I guess this isn't so important, especially as it gives me a runaround loop.

 

Anymore suggestion or ideas please pass them on😁

 

With regards to my railway room designs a couple of years ago, it soon became apparent that I was massively trying to run before I could walk, and an entire room layout is something to aim for long term.

Projects like these box files and a slightly larger one I have planned should enable me to learnt the hobby first.

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Plan looks great! I'd also agree that a runaround loop is a good feature to have. I regretted not initially putting one in on Distillery Yard and it was a pain to retrofit. Would it be feasible to have 2 modules of 2 boxfiles permanently connected rather than 4 individual ones? Would eliminate a lot of wear and tear on the boxfile track joints. That would also solve your worries about having all 2 lane boxfile joints.

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1 hour ago, davidparker172 said:

@luke the train spotter thanks for the reply.

it appears that lack of knowledge on the subject has come to haunt me and yes a runaround is a better idea.

i never even thought of two permanent joined boxes…. Good shout!

it would still be easy to store etc but also enable less need to faff with track joiners 

I think it might help with the robustness of the layout. Incidentally a friend of mine is doing exactly that and documenting the build on YouTube which may be of interest. 

 

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A small update after the recommendations I received (thanks guys).

 

Firstly, I have decided to to the build in 2 sections, each of 2 boxes fixed together.  This means I only have one join to worry about when in use and also means I can space out my streamline points a little rather than squeezing them between the box walls, and also means that the joint between the two sets of boxes is done using track ends not point ends.

 

Secondly, I have now revised the layout over all plan to include a run around loop. 

 

I intend on building the first two boxes first as a standalone build, knowing that in future I will move on to the second two boxes.

 

Any comments or suggestions would be gratefully received

 

image7.jpeg.d8a5ee446ef8a79bd93c5ae4b588bb44.jpeg

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When I joined my boxes 1&2 together I used thin plywood to reinforce, simply glued on with PVA. It’s worked well. I realise these pics have disappeared from my build thread so here they are. First picture is the base, second the back and top. 
 

E38611EB-5B1A-47F4-9FF4-2F0CA8194BEE.jpeg.2d28acf1d6db2fa3fbe7f995f3e73af2.jpeg

 

2D7AD988-A40E-4C7C-9D43-C1EC9C3797CC.jpeg.981aac640a08fc552439581d1990f451.jpeg

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Hi all

a question relating to points for this box file please.

I want to use Peco electrofrog points operated manually on the track by hand with no point motors obviously.

i would also like to the option to use dc or dcc (with correct controllers) depending on what loco I use.

Could anyone advise me on which of the “usual” mods to an electrofrog point I need to do…. Or none???

i will be relying on the moving rail to transfer the power.

I still get baffled with the point wiring😆

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5 hours ago, davidparker172 said:

Hi all

a question relating to points for this box file please.

I want to use Peco electrofrog points operated manually on the track by hand with no point motors obviously.

i would also like to the option to use dc or dcc (with correct controllers) depending on what loco I use.

Could anyone advise me on which of the “usual” mods to an electrofrog point I need to do…. Or none???

i will be relying on the moving rail to transfer the power.

I still get baffled with the point wiring😆

Someone asked me the same question on the micro nook thread on page 2 if that would be a useful reference. Using the rail to transfer the power is a viable option but it's reliability will decrease over time as the track naturally just gets dirtier. I guess the most important 'mod' to be aware of is to make sure you use insulating fish plates on the frog. 

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Small update

I decided that when joining the boxfiles together, I didn't want to reply on glue only so after some research i found some items called binding screws, so decided to give them a go.

 

A few holes drilled including a sunken bit so the fixture doesn't stand proud of the box wall and i was in business.

 

image12.jpeg.8b24efe0c2c7eb389e7ab63abd3c7f31.jpeg

image13.jpeg.0f92a144ccccf0072bdd016c604ba608.jpegimage14.jpeg.70287483bd53e066a844188db6280e25.jpeg

 

Also, I have added small magnets (suggested by @Booking Hall) to hold the fold down fronts when in storage.

 

Then i added 5mm foam board at the base of each box file so that I can sink any cables inside this below track level.

I had to check with the largest loco I have for this build and luckily i have 8mm to spare so far.....

 

image9.jpeg.716143f1f7c0a7f9bd7dbf497b5774b2.jpegimage10.jpeg.b08c4fce6dfc390226c8e7c945763031.jpegimage11.jpeg.e6ad52af3cfe2dbc43e30863fb52c780.jpeg

 

Now the research starts as to exactly what I am going to do in each box file.

 

As always, any comments/critique/suggestions are welcome

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On 01/02/2023 at 17:29, davidparker172 said:

Hi all

a question relating to points for this box file please.

I want to use Peco electrofrog points operated manually on the track by hand with no point motors obviously.

i would also like to the option to use dc or dcc (with correct controllers) depending on what loco I use.

Could anyone advise me on which of the “usual” mods to an electrofrog point I need to do…. Or none???

i will be relying on the moving rail to transfer the power.

I still get baffled with the point wiring😆

The one I do, even on any insulfrog points, is add the little [ shaped clips that Hornby sell. I put them between the outer rails and the nearest inner rail. It therefore adds connectivity over and above the blade tips making the point a quasi live frog item. As another poster has mentioned the critical modification/fitting needed for a live frog point (or those with the [ clip modification) is isolating the V frog rails immediately after the point.

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Hi all

 

Its about time for an update.  Things have been going slowly due to life getting in the way but i have been beavering away at any given opportunity so here are some pics in order of the work i have managed so far.

 

I have made it all up as i went along so its not a particular type pf real bridge, not a "real" size, just something that looks right and enables me to learn some new skills.  I have used Scalescenes printed sheets for the bricks and stone work and a Wills bridge kit for the steelwork.

 

Part of the enjoyment is working how you are going to do something, but also make sure its removeable so can close the box fie for transport.

 

I am planning on having a standard boxfile to carry some of the separate parts in, which can be taken with the layout.

 

As always, comments and critique are all welcome

 

IMG_5744.JPEG.822e247bc3b754ff0e45098104d6a5c3.JPEGIMG_5769.JPEG.68905088d0bbd5690a704003bd346b8d.JPEGIMG_5842.JPEG.01856fac89c16d2af8cd2569e9a61bb3.JPEGIMG_5873.JPEG.c33e69cdecb4128011d8a7b8664eb7ff.JPEGIMG_6020.JPEG.0f74dca734048b9e9f5239d77f23e508.JPEGIMG_6018.JPEG.3d1f529c558892e7b16a804d68985f42.JPEGIMG_6021.JPEG.090c79fb974b2c98a253f440ca2ed592.JPEG

 

 

 

Edited by davidparker172
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