Hornby TT120 engine shed quality issues

[Daniel Watkin]

Hello,

 

I'm wondering whether someone who has purchased the TT9006 Engine Shed from Hornby could confirm whether this issue affects all models or just mine. I'm considering sending it back for a replacement, but if they're all the same there is no point.

 

On my shed, the right most wall leans inwards quite substantially at the base. I have attached an image to show the problem. The left wall and centre column are perfectly upright and correct. But the right wall is way out, not even close to upright. The base of the wall does not even touch the ground. I'm reluctant to try and bend it back in to shape as I wont be able to return it if it breaks. Has anybody else had this issue?

 

Edited February 15, 2023 by Daniel Watkin

[Phil Parker]

Assuming it's a resin model, you won't be able to bend it. The material will shatter rather than bend.

 

Resin models do very a lot, it's not nearly as precise a process as injection moulding, so you may well have a bad example. However, as someone who has cut plenty of RTP buildings up, I know that being perfectly square is rare, as is a consistent thickness of the walls.

[Daniel Watkin]

Thank you Phil. It is resin so I definitely will not bend it. It's a tricky one, I'm quite happy to ignore small issues. And I'm willing to cut it some slack as the price I paid (£24) is cheaper than a lot of unpainted kits, so comparably this does seem like a bargain.

 

But it is rather noticeable.  It's not an issue you have to look for, it's very obvious just from a glance. It's a shame as I really like the model. 

[Daniel Watkin]

I've done a little more digging. This is an image of the shed taken directly from the Hornby website here. Even in the promo material the leaning wall is present. So the issue must be built directly into the moulds they are using. Which means this must affect them all. A bit of a shame but not the end of the world.

[Phil Parker]

7 minutes ago, Daniel Watkin said:

So the issue must be built directly into the moulds they are using.

 

More likley the result of the resin setting - the original master won't be wonky, it's easier to make it sqaure, but extracting complex buildings from moulds isn't easy. Most are hand-finished, which is one reason they aren't cheap.

 

Personally, if it matters, it's time to kit or even scratchbuild a model.

[Daniel Watkin]

4 minutes ago, Phil Parker said:

 

More likley the result of the resin setting - the original master won't be wonky, it's easier to make it sqaure, but extracting complex buildings from moulds isn't easy. Most are hand-finished, which is one reason they aren't cheap.

 

Personally, if it matters, it's time to kit or even scratchbuild a model.

I'll learn to live with it! It's still a lovely model, I'm sure once I build the layout around it the problems will become unnoticeable.

 

This is actually my first attempt to move away from scratch building. I enjoy building things from nothing. But with my work and other commitments it just take too long. I get a few minutes a week to build. This is my most recent attempt, I started this probably 12+ months ago, the windows and doors (not pictured) went in to place last weekend, still got the chimneys and roof trims to build and install, so that will probably take another few months 😅

 

[Ravenser]

This is a long shot, and may not be workable , but - 

 

If you were able to cut away the front half of the affected wall, and replace it with a scratchbuilt lean-to annex, presumably added later, it might be possible to salvage the building with much less work than scratchbuilding an entire replacement.

 

I've never attempted to saw into a resin building , so I can't comment on the practicalities or risks of doing so . But your photo in situ shows that there is space for a lean-to office to the side. I would be inclined to saw into the window apertures - to minimise the amount of cutting to be done - if attempoting this.

 

You would then only have to remake a replacement for the lower 3/4s of the front edge of the wall, probably using embossed plasticard and any slight mismatch in the finish of the stonework can be explained away as the result of building the annex later

 

Effectively , you are cutting out the affected area and masking it with an add-on

 

As I say I've not attempted anything like this, but if the alternative is to discard the building , then your risk is limited . If the thing sustains unrepairable damage in the attempt, well, you were going to discard it anyway

[Daniel Watkin]

For anyone who may be interested, I have managed to fix the problem. I warmed up the engine shed with an old hair dryer. I needed to put a lot of heat into, but eventually the resin became malleable (I would say it had the consistency of semi dried clay). I then just supported in the wall in the position I wanted it and let it cool. It took a very long time to cool down, the resin held on to the heat surprisingly well, but it got there in the end.

 

I also took the opportunity when the windows were removed to repaint it. From the factory, a single colour was used to paint the whole shed (the green off the roof trim was also used to paint the bricks, it was done quite well, but wasn't to my linking). I added some variation and called it a day. Still going to add some detail around the window and door tops however.

 

[natterjack]

8 hours ago, Daniel Watkin said:

For anyone who may be interested, I have managed to fix the problem. I warmed up the engine shed with an old hair dryer

Sorry not to have seen this thread earlier but heating resin to restore shape is standard practice, for example in scale aircraft modelling. Maximum temperature is around 100 degrees C (boiling water) and often a thinner  item will adopt its correct shape naturally as the stresses are relieved. The problem arises from the resin mix being optimized for fast mould turn round rather than slow cure stability.

[Les1952]

From a prototype perspective buildings do tend to settle with age, so a slightly wonky one could actually be a little more "authentic" than a straight one......

 

Les