Stroudley Brake, what colours and transfers

[relaxinghobby]

I've gotten thus far, it is built for 00 scale.

[relaxinghobby]

I'm saving up for some wheels!

How to glaze that lantern lookout?

Would you be able to see the guard sitting up there?

The brake gear was very complicated and would have trapped the wheels, making it difficult to paint so I did a simplified version, as long as it seems busy

enough under there it looks ok.

As it is they can be removed for painting.

[Adam]

Glazing? Well, if you can get the floor out, no problem, clear plastic sheet, measured and cut from the outside and installed from within. I'd use gloss varnish of some description or Johnson's Klear/equivalent. If not, then this could be tricky... cutting sheet to exact size and installing very carefully. in the same manner.

 

Adam

[relaxinghobby]

Hi, the floor is almost solid, a single sheet with just the W irons at one end bent down from it, the W irons at the other end are a separate rocking set.

The sides fold up from the floor making a U shaped channel and the ends are soldered on, the little butterfly shaped space left in the f;oor by the W irons

although it is under the lookout is only tiny, maybe little squares of glazing could be tweezered up into position, between the brakes gear, is twezzered a real word?

 

 

 

This came by email:

 

burgundy said:

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I have built a very similar vehicle from the 5&9 kit for the earlier Craven van. The totem was done from the Woodham Wagon Works lettering (as it includes all the colours)

and I think the rest of the lettering and numbers were from Roxey or HMRS (and Fox do some as well).

This reply form does not alllow me to include a photo but I can send one if it would be of interest.

 

Yes please Burgundy can we see a photo if you can up load one to this thread.

 

[Dave Searle]

Hi,

 

POW Sides also do LBSCR wagon transfers

 

You may find the 4mm models section of my LBSCR website useful. In particular this photo of a Roxey Stroudley brake van built by Jim Hilton.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Regards,

 

Dave

[Kenton]

IIRC isn't the lookout built separately with the roof? - so like similar kits keeping the roof as a sprung clip attached assembly enables easier painting and easy access for addition of glazing.

 

Looks well put together anyhaw

[burgundy]

 

 

Yes please Burgundy can we see a photo if you can up load one to this thread.

 

As requested, the Craven predecessor of the Stroudley van. The kit is by 5&9 models - see http://www.5and9models.co.uk/

 

Weathering in this case was largely achieved by drybrushing the body with a paler shade of grey. This blended in the white of the lettering and highlighted the corners of the outside body frames.

 

Turning to the challenge of glazing the lantern, it sounds as though you have two options.

1. Get the roof off, add the glazing and then re-attach the roof (sounds more like a glueing job than solder) or

2. There used to be some liquid that you could put round the edge of a window and then draw it across as the surface tension increased. I don't remember the name, but there is probably a dried out bottle of it at the back of my cupboard, as I am sure that I used it to glaze the spectacle glasses of a DJH Vulcan. This might work without trying to remove the roof. I suspect that the result would not be absolutely clear - a bit like bottle glass - but if the alternative is to poke a small square of glazing through a small hole in the floor, to glue it to a small aperture in the roof, it might be a bit easier..........

 

Note that my attempt at glazing is less than transparent and, indeed, photos suggest that some of the prototypes were in need of a clean.

 

Whatever you choose - good luck!

 

Eric

[relaxinghobby]

The whole model is a completely soldered up brass box, roof, sides and lookout are as oneto make it stronger. The lookout is made up of very little metal indeed, this is a reduced down kit from a 7mm scale etch so perhaps making the top removable in the chunkier 7mm version may have been possible, but I could not make it work for me in 4mm.

 

 

 

 

 

I may take the pragmatic way out ( lazy?) and not bother to glaze.

 

 

 

 

The photo shows the undercarriage, just more metal to get in the way.

 

[Kenton]

The whole model is a completely soldered up brass box, roof, sides and lookout are as oneto make it stronger. The lookout is made up of very little metal indeed, this is a reduced down kit from a 7mm scale etch so perhaps making the top removable in the chunkier 7mm version may have been possible, but I could not make it work for me in 4mm.

Nope the one I did was definitely 4mm. As with all these kits it is a matter of planning - having the roof detachable is a clear advantage and well worth the extra effort. The birdcage is pretty strong when soldered up (I admit a really fiddly task) but for me the worst part of building this kit - as so often - was the running boards and assortment of wires that are "brake rodding"

 

Another option may be to seal up the outside of the window and fill (while upside down) with that clear resin stuff used for mounting insects etc. Then clean up the outside. It would make it a little top heavy but than can be compensated by adding more lead weight to the floor. But it might also prove to be messy and fatal for the kit if it leaks out.

[burgundy]

 

I may take the pragmatic way out ( lazy?) and not bother to glaze.

 

 

Might this stuff help?

Microscale - Micro Kristal Klear Scale

 

http://www.modelsforsale.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=185857

 

Eric

[relaxinghobby]

Well it's too late now to make the roof and lookout detachable, the kit is all soldered up. in future I'll know better and try to pre plan to allow for finishing and painting, I followed the instructions and was busy solving other problems as I went along. i seem to remember soldering on the beading overlays as 'the big problem' that over shadowed every thing else on this kit for me. Checking the instructions I see the lantern sides came as part of the van sides, encouraging them to be left where they were.

Quite a difficult kit and my 3rd brass etch. I'm pleased that it runs and stays on the track. The under side was certainly fiddly especially with the old style 'braek' gear and foot boards so went for a simplified impressionistic version using bent wire until it looked busy enough down there..

Now I shall cogitate on the glazing, can I tweazer some rectangle of plastic sheet in there or will it be Krystal Klear fluid?

[relaxinghobby]

Sometime since any progress on this project, I had to source some transfers for the lettering, I found the HMRS ones provide the right size lettering.

There is an illiteracy marking that I have not found as a transfer, so I have had to draw my own, gel pens seemed quite a good idea as the ink in

them is more like paint and covers well, but it ran and smudged when I used acrylic varnish to paint over them and protect them.

 

The bit of card board was a second try using a variety of different pen types and testing Humbrol enamel varnish on them to see if they ran or smudged with that.

 

I have ended up using coloured biros to draw the colours directly onto the side of the van, starting with a white dot of acrylic paint.

 

TEST SAMPLES ON A BIT OF SHINY CARDBOARD PACKET

 

TRANSFERS AND MARKINGS, POOR RESOLUTION PHOTO FROM ANTIQUE CAMERA PHONE, YOU CAN STILL SEE WHERE THE GEL PEN INK

RAN AND BLED INTO THE ACRYLIC ( WATER BASED ) VARNISH.

 

Proper digital camera should be back in service soon when it's new battery arrives.

[relaxinghobby]

Thanks to Burgundy about the Woodham Wagon Works supplying the eliteracy marks in their transfer sheets. I've had another go at drawing them on by hand.

I'll post pictures when my new camera battery arrives.

 

The next problem I have been putting off is glazing that birdcage, I have some Krystal Clear glazing fluid waiting.

That will be my first try.

[relaxinghobby]

 

I'm stuck with this one, can't get past the glazing, trying to fit clear plastic sheet through a little hole in the bottom has not worked. I tried Krystal Glaze, it would not take in the lookout, just would not form a film, it has worked in the door windows though. You can see the dribbles around the lookout birdcage frame.

[relaxinghobby]

 

I've found this old Slater's kit of a NE brake in the back of a draw, it suffers from the same problem as the LBSCR brake, it has no glazing either.

[PenrithBeacon]

 

I've found this old Slater's kit of a NE brake in the back of a draw, it suffers from the same problem as the LBSCR brake, it has no glazing either.

Aircraft modellers quite often make a sub-assembly from clear plastic and then paint on the bits in between the clear sections. Perhaps this approach might work here.

 

Regards

[Kenton]

I think this is a classic case of having thought through a detachable roof during building.

 

If the roof is designed as removable and can be clipped back on it makes both painting and glazing so much easier.

[burgundy]

In the absence of any other suggestions, can I suggest another attempt with the Krystal Klear? Rather than trying to glaze the lanterns first time, how about cutting out some apertures of about the same size in a sheet of plasticard and practising on them to see whether there is a technique that will allow you to draw the film across an opening of that size. When/if you find something that works, then have a go at the vans.

Good luck

Eric

[relaxinghobby]

Ahh, the advantage of hindsight, Next time I'll know, on this learning curve or learning gradient to put it in railway terms I need a banking engine.

 

It's going to have to be Crystalklear or nothing, there is no way to get any other glazing into these models as they are both built up into solid boxes, I must perceivier .

[Oldddudders]

Ahh, the advantage of hindsight, Next time I'll know, on this learning curve or learning gradient to put it in railway terms I need a banking engine.

 

It's going to have to be Crystalklear or nothing, there is no way to get any other glazing into these models as they are both built up into solid boxes, I must perceivier .

I'm clearly being thick here. You appear to have an open 4-sided box? Can you not at least glaze 3 sides by sliding the glazing in from the edge? The 4th side might be more difficult, but might be achieved by glazing all but one window, then using Kristal Kleer to cover that? Use aeroplane glue e.g. Canopy Bond to avoid leaving an opaque film on the glazing?

[relaxinghobby]

OK all this modelling peer pressure made me go back and try again with the glazing, 3rd time lucky?

 

This time using the crystal klear as a glue that does not spoil or craze the clear plastic, which is some sort of packaging

plastic about 10 thou' thick.

 

One side of the birdcage at a time and leaving it for a day for the glue to dry out. Since the plastic is thin it can be trimmed to shape

with scissors, a sticky label or low tack tap was stuck to the plastic to make it easier to see to work on with the scissors.

 

Every thing has to be done through a small hole in the floor. I don't think the roof could be make to be detachable, there is too little material around the

birdcage lookout, it has too be soldered up for strength. There was no help in the instructions, this is a 4mm kit reduced in size from the 7mm version.

In the larger one perhaps there is enough room to manipulate the glazing material easily?

 

 

Now just the last side is left to do.

That brake gear is a simplified version of the one in the instructions, if I had followed them it would have been wire spagetti down there blocking access completely.

[relaxinghobby]

Hooray, it's finished at last all windows glazed. It only took 2 years from opening the kit packet. So for 20 quid I got 2 years entertainment!

 

Taken with close-up setting on digital camera switched on.

Taken with point and shot P setting switched on.

 

The buffer height on the Hornby Terrier looks wrong?

[bertiedog]

Nice shots, and yes the buffers are a bit out on Hornby due to the couplings. The footplate is about correct height, but the shanks of the buffers are too high, the C/L should be lower down, also they are a bit short in length. It not much out in length, but you can see from the brake the true level for the buffers

Without checking a drawing I would also suspect that the whole body is riding too high, common on Hornby, again the couplings issues drive this problem which most designs from them have. The usually accepted figure was 3mm too high.

The photograph (2010) shows the buffers line up with stock and other shots confirm the whole body is raised against the reference point of the axle centres It is fairly minor within scale adherence on RTR from Hornby, and is just one of the design rules applied by Hornby in the past, they are better now.

Stephen.

[relaxinghobby]

Didn't the Terrier start out as a Dapol product? Do the original Dapol Terriers suffer from a high body and buffers problem?

[bertiedog]

It is identical as far as I know, the design may not have been Hornby's own, but the original designer copied their buffer height to allow RTR operation using a Hornby style coupling etc.