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Chassis and motors in 7mm Newbie questions!


woko
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Rob

 

I think its a wise choice for your first chassis and perhaps keep away from compensated wheels for the first build. The old rule of keep it simple

 

What would be interesting is designing and printing the associated parts below the footplate, Brake gear, sand gear etc

 

I think once you have experience of chassis building perhaps you can then improve the design with either 3D printing, or etching, or even a mixture of both

 

Your £d body is a real thing of beauty   

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On 03/04/2023 at 17:20, hayfield said:

Rob

 

I think its a wise choice for your first chassis and perhaps keep away from compensated wheels for the first build. The old rule of keep it simple

 

What would be interesting is designing and printing the associated parts below the footplate, Brake gear, sand gear etc

 

I think once you have experience of chassis building perhaps you can then improve the design with either 3D printing, or etching, or even a mixture of both

 

Your £d body is a real thing of beauty   

 

Thanks John your advice has been very helpful and much appreciated sir hope you had a cracking Easter

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On 04/04/2023 at 08:51, Bucoops said:

Just a heads-up - I understand the prices on the Premier Components site are out of date.

 

Yes i did wonder they looked pretty reasonable have they hiked up a lot then?

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18 minutes ago, woko said:

 

Yes i did wonder they looked pretty reasonable have they hiked up a lot then?

 

Not entirely sure. The only example i have is A4 jointed rods are £21 on the website but £30 if you ordered now.

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I guess at sometimes the cost of raw materials are constantly on the move, I know from Phil (C&L) every time he orders new stock the price rises and its a fine balance trying to keep profitable 

 

18 months ago we refurbished our bathroom, rather than using tiles we used wall panels. My daughter is refurbishing her new house these panels have more than doubled** in price, but interestingly the basic cost of solar panels is much the same, but you cannot get discounts in bulk buying schemes. 

 

** a quick internet search has shown savings can be had shopping around (up to 40%) I think she is looking into it further

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With regard to the chassis and pony truck please be aware that there are two different types depending on the particular N7 variant. Early ones had a radial truck, later ones had a pony truck with smaller dia wheels. This was done to help them around tighter curves, an issue not confined it seems to our model railways.  In both cases the loco frames narrowed behind the rear drivers to assist with this aspect. I have found with my models in both 4mm & 2mm this needed to be quite a bit to get them around quite normal radius curves. I haven’t done one in 7mm but I would guess this will be the same going on my past experiences in that scale.

 

Bob

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I haven't the exact dimensions for the N7 to hand, but recall that the N1&2 had a very long coupled wheelbase. Better to avoid dead scale width on the main frames and be prepared to experiment with a little side play on two axles. The Premier frames will be fine, at worst.you might have to slim the outer part of the axle bushes with a file.

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The early N7s had a 3'9" trailing wheel and later ones 3'6" - changed at the same time as the truck change. Both 10 spoke.

 

The driving wheels changed too - when from the crankpin being inline with a spoke to between spokes. Diameter and spoke count remained the same though.

 

Coupled wheelbase 16'3" for both variants I think. Plus 6'9" to the trailing wheel.

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