Simond Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 I'm disappointed, Giles, I thought you'd have used 36BA nuts on real studs to put the covers on... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 18, 2019 Author Share Posted April 18, 2019 sorry Simon, did you not see the threads on the studs? 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peach james Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 4 hours ago, Giles said: Thank you Gents.... i'm very fortunate in the tools I've acquired over time! I must say this has taken some persistence. I finally managed to work out how to do it 'properly' from an stl 3D model, but it broke yet another tool within the first second, so I guess doing it the long way is better.... I also had problems doing this job in Nickel Silver, and for some reason that was breaking cutters left right and centre. So I have gone back to brass with a 0.8mm cutter going slowly. This is the first 'production' one, and it took 50 minutes cutting time, but came out really nicely. CNC cylinder end cover by giles favell, on Flickr If you can deal with the Canadian foul language, look up AvE on Youtube. He's playing with a Hass mill in full size, and also breaking the occasional thing. (not so much for you Giles, but for the rest of your followers...I think you have probably passed most of the little hints he's been dropping via experience) You know how you get experience right? By doing things the wrong way... Another person I am aware of doing small scale work is Richard Trounce in Toronto, he is slowly working on finishing a UP Big Boy in 3.5" gauge. Mostly it's the details that he is puttering with. (also CNC in small scale work). RET posts on Chaski home machinist & Live Steam boards, and he may be of more use for you. He's using a Shereline Mill, with their CNC pack on it. James 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 18, 2019 Share Posted April 18, 2019 Whichever you use you need free machining. Anything with higher copper content will snag and snap tools. There is a special oil used in taping brass, which is also good for small machining jobs. (Sorry can't remember it's name). It's very much like coloured water but does evaporate off leaving it dry. Cranking work. Wish I had the computer skill to do this. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 19, 2019 Author Share Posted April 19, 2019 For those that enjoy this sort of thing, may I recommend Kevin's blog - of 'Up The Line' He has produced the most delightful Foden in 7mm, and has fitted radio control. Really nice! https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blogs/blog/1344-up-the-line-1918/ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 In situ. A cruel shot that shows the cylinder on the chassis. The body isn't fixed down yet... 2019-04-20_06-50-25 by giles favell, on Flickr Valve chest cover. Same procedure - all with no broken cutters! 2019-04-19_01-08-57 by giles favell, on Flickr 6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 The side tank is now completed, and here is the little motor running under radio control (with the very small bevel gears!). distance between the frames is about 9.5mm. 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Finished except couplings and a driver, which I will sort when i need the loco. As an exercise and learning experience it went well, with the Stepcraft proving itself quite remarkable. 2019-05-04_09-53-33 by giles favell, on Flickr 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 Another toy. 8 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulleid101 Posted May 13, 2019 Share Posted May 13, 2019 Fabulous work,brilliant modelling !! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 Thank you.. I'm now having an experiment with another idea, a little different, but it's a bit of a tall order, mechanically. Before I go too far I want to prove the techniques as it were.... These gears (and the rest that mesh to them) are drawn up on CAD and laser cut, and the gearbox plates are cut out on my Stepcraft. 2019-05-14_06-18-04 by giles favell, on Flickr 2019-05-14_06-21-05 by giles favell, on Flickr 4 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gz3xzf Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Giles Your craftsmanship and knowledge never cease to amaze me. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 16, 2019 Author Share Posted May 16, 2019 Very kind! This is what I'm trying for. I can see my way through most of it, but there's a lot of complications to get over. 2019-05-15_07-23-30 by giles favell, on Flickr 8 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Ooh, interesting! good stuff, Giles best simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 17, 2019 Author Share Posted May 17, 2019 Progress.... I'm not convinces it will steer well having slippery white-metal tyre instead of rubber - but there's not much I can do about that! 5 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
51235 Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 Wow Giles - simply wow Would something as simple as black insulation tape help with the "tyres" ?? Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 17, 2019 Share Posted May 17, 2019 (edited) Or paint black latex onto the wheels? or rubber bands of “just the right size”? you do only have one rear wheel driving? atb simon Edited May 17, 2019 by Simond 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherplanet Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Thats very nice Giles, I am jealous. A traction engine has been on my to do list for ages, but I havent got around to it. It has a nice speed to it. To Simond's suggestions: Plasti Dip silicone paint works well to add grip. But is difficult to get a smooth coating. My current project I have been making rubber tyres from square section drive bands, sold for repairing cassette players and dvd drives. I cut them down and glued to shorten them, although it has proved tricky to get a good joint, once acheived it seems to be stable. I used specialist rubber cyanacrylate. I havent got the truck running yet, so I cant vouch for the durability. Maybe larger Xsection belts or rubber sheet could serve your larger scale requirements. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Did the prototype steer well? Probably not loose chains, slack bearings and cast wheels. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Certainly it is possible to make o-rings to any desired size, as the rubber extrusions are available, and there is a glue to suit. Never done it personally, but it would certainly support the approach OtherPlanet is taking. watching with interest Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Great article in the latest MRJ Giles. Way over my head and also way beyond me. I am in awe...! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted May 18, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 18, 2019 1 hour ago, Simond said: Certainly it is possible to make o-rings to any desired size, as the rubber extrusions are available, and there is a glue to suit. Never done it personally, but it would certainly support the approach OtherPlanet is taking. watching with interest Simon I get to use lots of sizes of o-ring for work. A friend found me a great supplier in Chichester who will sell online. So I would not bother to make them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Me neither, but my point was that one can, so making a traction engine tyre should also be possible. atb Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRS91 Posted May 18, 2019 Share Posted May 18, 2019 Looking good Giles, you going to use a steering servo to turn the bar that controls the steering chains to mimic the full scale ones? You may be able to get square profile O rings like the ones used for pneumatic cylinders to use as scale vulcanised tyres ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 Thank you Gents.... First lesson is that proper rubber tyres are an absolute necessity. I therefore bought a 300 x 300 square of 1mm neoprene on Amazon for about 3 quid, from which I could cut strips of whatever width. I had to machine down all the wheels by 2mm over the diameter, and then superglue the neoprene on - all of which went well..... Servo is fitted. Work has in fact started on the cylinder and crank-shaft 4 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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