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Bachmann A2 transmission access.


Mad McCann
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Recently, I acquired for a good price, a Bachmann A2 sold as a non runner, with the intention of putting it right myself.

Essentially, this one just has a final drive gear that has become loose on the drive axle so probably a straightforward loctite repair. I'm  just asking if anyone has done this repair to an A2 before and how easy the access is. It appears on first inspection that the keeper plate is held on very short pick up wires and I'm just trying to figure out if I can get in without breaking or unsoldering them.

 

Thanks.

 

Davy.

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Chances are that the loose gear has split - not that easy to detect except by very close inspection.

 

If this is the case, and Bachmann cannot supply a replacement, I understand that replacement brass gears for some Bachmann models may be available from Ultrascale.

 

CJI.

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Chances are its a split gear, I've not seen any other reason for the gear to lose grip of an axle. Its a replace the gear job, which if you can source a gear its a disassemble the con rods, eccentric and coupling rods to pull the axle and then pull a wheel off to get at the gear, then you have to reassemble and quarter the whole thing. Otherwise Bachmann spares usually hold a stock of complete wheelsets with rods and gear for most models, which is a bit more simple undo the eccentric and connecting rod and swap the wheelsets out job. Last time I checked they're usually £15-20 for a set of drivers plus delivery.

 

To get the keeper off (bear in mind I don't have an A2, but a lot of Bachmann models are constructed similarly), you may need to take the body off first in order to win a bit of slack on the wiring to feed it down to be able to lift the keeper plate clear.

 

~edit

 

Currently in stock and £17 for black or lined green wheelsets on Bachmann spares.

Edited by Zunnan
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3 hours ago, Mad McCann said:

It appears on first inspection that the keeper plate is held on very short pick up wires and I'm just trying to figure out if I can get in without breaking or unsoldering them.

To expand on this aspect, there's a  knotted/tangled bundle of the pick up wires: either underneath the decoder socket mount neatly packed into a cuboid void in the casting; or a messy bundle above the decoder socket - in either case it is best to detach the decoder socket mount (2 screws) to have free access to the cuboid void which leads to the keeper plate.

 

You may get lucky on the axle gear front. I have one of the first conventional chassis V2's bought s/h as a 'non-runner' which I bought as a 'breaker' for spares; and the fault was that the splines on the gear axle were short and not central, and the axle gear was on a splineless section and just spinning. Shifted it onto the splines, and put a washer one side of the idler gear above it to best centre it with the two gears it had to mesh with. On the basis that it was potentially weak, I then put it into service, and nine years on it's still going.

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5 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

 

You may get lucky on the axle gear front. I have one of the first conventional chassis V2's bought s/h as a 'non-runner' which I bought as a 'breaker' for spares; and the fault was that the splines on the gear axle were short and not central, and the axle gear was on a splineless section and just spinning. Shifted it onto the splines, and put a washer one side of the idler gear above it to best centre it with the two gears it had to mesh with. On the basis that it was potentially weak, I then put it into service, and nine years on it's still going.

Found exactly the same issue with a sound fitted Oxford Rail J27, bought at Warley for £80 ‘sound works but loco dead’ - the fault was that the axle mounted gear wasn’t on the spline. A quick and easy fix. 

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Interesting observations.

I would say that when testing, it would occasionally drive, but then slip. Which suggests more the split gear than one not centred on the spline but I'm going to keep that in mind for future investigations of this type.

 

Thanks again.

 

Davy.

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