How do you use Mefix transfers?

[cypherman]

Hi all,

I have ordered a set of LMS Mefix transfers. What I want to know is what is the best way to use them. Plus can you use or need to use Decalfix to get them to sit right on uneven surfaces.

[roythebus1]

Do you mean Methfix transfer?

[Metr0Land]

I find Micro Sol and Micro Set work fine

[cctransuk]

4 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

I have ordered a set of LMS Mefix transfers. What I want to know is what is the best way to use them. Plus can you use or need to use Decalfix to get them to sit right on uneven surfaces.

 

The instructions suggest a 50:50 mix of water and methylated spirits in order to release the transfer - never found the need for a decal stting solution.

 

CJI.

[cypherman]

5 hours ago, roythebus1 said:

Do you mean Methfix transfer?

Hi Roy, Sorry yes I did meant Methfix.

[BR60103]

Would another alcohol work?  I have Isopropyl in my workshop.

 

[CKPR]

Use a 1:3 meths to water solution for the initial positioning and soaking of  the transfer and then soak off the remaining thin backing paper with plain water. There's no need for any decal softening or setting solutions, but when the transfer has dried and hardened off, a coat of "Kleer" will give a really nice paInted on look and protect the transfer (albeit that properly applied Methfix transfers are pretty well permanent in the first place).

Edited September 2, 2023 by CKPR

[roythebus1]

I must admit it's years since I've used Methfix transfers!. If it says use meths, then use meths, it's what they're designed for. Donate the rest to local wino!

 

[DayReturn]

Peter Chatham’s Methfix range are (were) silk screen printed onto a shellac coated paper, and then finished with another layer of shellac, I believe.   There’s no carrier film, when you press them into place, the meths will have softened the shellac varnish which will glue the design to the model surface.  PC’s Pressfix transfers are the same only with a water soluble coating instead of Shellac.

 

So, with no transfer / decal / décalcomanie carrier film, there’s nothing to soften, it’s actually pre-dried paint with some sticky varnish to weld it to the surface.

 

Yes apply a suitable protective varnish over it to avoid scrapes and wear.  Note for the same reason, once released from the backing paper, every letter in the design is a separate entity and will obey Newton’s laws of motion independently of the remaining letters (and possibly some other unknown dynamic principles as well), so use the initial tacky surface to get the letters in the right place before their dose of meths!

 

Also make sure your protective varnish isn’t going to spoil the lettering, by applying an unwanted sample to a surface and testing with your chosen varnish and any thinners you might use.  However the only genuine scrap on the sheet is probably just the tiny print registration crosses in the corners.  PC himself didn’t make any suggestions for suitable protective varnish, and there are lots of solvents and things we use now that were not around 40-50 years ago.  However I’ve not suffered any solvent-induced disasters with Methfix or Pressfix, whereas I often have with waterslide transfers.

Edited September 6, 2023 by DayReturn

[cctransuk]

11 hours ago, DayReturn said:

Peter Chatham’s Methfix range are (were) silk screen printed onto a shellac coated paper, and then finished with another layer of shellac, I believe.   There’s no carrier film, when you press them into place, the meths will have softened the shellac varnish which will glue the design to the model surface.  PC’s Pressfix transfers are the same only with a water soluble coating instead of Shellac.

 

So, with no transfer / decal / décalcomanie carrier film, there’s nothing to soften, it’s actually pre-dried paint with some sticky varnish to weld it to the surface.

 

Yes apply a suitable protective varnish over it to avoid scrapes and wear.  Note for the same reason, once released from the backing paper, every letter in the design is a separate entity and will obey Newton’s laws of motion independently of the remaining letters (and possibly some other unknown dynamic principles as well), so use the initial tacky surface to get the letters in the right place before their dose of meths!

 

Also make sure your protective varnish isn’t going to spoil the lettering, by applying an unwanted sample to a surface and testing with your chosen varnish and any thinners you might use.  However the only genuine scrap on the sheet is probably just the tiny print registration crosses in the corners.  PC himself didn’t make any suggestions for suitable protective varnish, and there are lots of solvents and things we use now that were not around 40-50 years ago.  However I’ve not suffered any solvent-induced disasters with Methfix or Pressfix, whereas I often have with waterslide transfers.

 

I always understood that Pressfix have a pressure-sensitive adhesive, not shellac.

 

That is why care has to be taken not to press on the transfer until it is definitely in the correct location.

 

It is also why they loose their adhesive qualities in storage - unlike Methfix.

 

CJI.

[Izzy]

Although I have mostly used methfix transfers down the years I have never actually applied them to the models with it but after to ensure they stick down properly. The reason is I found great difficulty getting the lettering/numbers all lined up correctly, so I used water, treating them as if they are water slide type. This means they stay firm and in one piece, they don’t go soft, which enables you to move them around using plenty of water, wait until it evaporates when all is correct, and then just wash the meths over them at that stage. I’ve also never varnished them either, but then I also never varnish models, just apply weathering by whatever method I choose. 
 

Bob

[DayReturn]

2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I always understood that Pressfix have a pressure-sensitive adhesive, not shellac.

 

That is why care has to be taken not to press on the transfer until it is definitely in the correct location.

 

It is also why they loose their adhesive qualities in storage - unlike Methfix.

 

CJI.

Yes I’m sure you are right.  I did say, ‘PC’s Pressfix transfers are the same only with a water soluble coating instead of Shellac.’ and the instructions refer to it as gum.  And when it *is* in the correct location, press firmly.  I don’t recall any problems repositioning it before the water bath, the gum is not hypersensitive.  

[Andy Hayter]

The only negative I have had with Methfix is that the meths will interact with some paints.  In my case it changed the colour of a Tamiya grey.  Not a complete disaster - I washed the rest of the wagon in meths and the colour became unified again - and was still a shade of grey.  

 

This is solved by applying varnish before you apply the transfers.  

[DayReturn]

On 02/09/2023 at 02:59, BR60103 said:

Would another alcohol work?

 

I suspect that depends on where you apply it.  According to Wikipedia, it “is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad-tasting, foul-smelling, or nauseating to discourage its recreational consumption.”  As a non-imbiber, I am uncertain if the wiki description applies to the lavender coloured concoction only, or to the aura around the immobile inhabitants of my local high street late on Friday night.  But I’d suggest that applying it to my train set is a recreational way of consuming it.

[cctransuk]

7 hours ago, DayReturn said:

... the gum is not hypersensitive.  

 

When first introduced, it was - the 'grab' was phenomenal!

 

The late, lamented Woodhead Transfers also used a pressure-sensitive adhesive which was, if anything, even more sensitive to the slightest pressure.

 

(It was the demise of Woodhead that precipitated the conception of Cambridge Custom Transfers).

 

John Isherwood.

[stewartingram]

Ah, Woodhead Transfers, they were fantastic. I only wish someone had taken the product forward.

Edited September 7, 2023 by stewartingram

[cctransuk]

11 hours ago, stewartingram said:

Ah, Woodhead Transfers, they were fantastic. I only wish someone had taken the product forward.

 

I did the next best thing - I produced a range of transfer sheets that expanded on what Woodhead offered.

 

CJI.

[Enterprisingwestern]

19 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

I did the next best thing - I produced a range of transfer sheets that expanded on what Woodhead offered.

 

CJI.

 

Being devils advocate John, and not denigrating your superb products, for some of us you expanded in the wrong direction!!

 

Mike.

[cctransuk]

1 minute ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Being devils advocate John, and not denigrating your superb products, for some of us you expanded in the wrong direction!!

 

Mike.

 

If you refer to my personal dimensions - you're correct!

 

If you refer to range content / era, I produce what I know about - which is, I think, always best!

 

CJI.

[Compound2632]

 

 

[Torper]

On 02/09/2023 at 09:29, CKPR said:

Use a 1:3 meths to water solution for the initial positioning and soaking of  the transfer and then soak off the remaining thin backing paper with plain water. There's no need for any decal softening or setting solutions, but when the transfer has dried and hardened off, a coat of "Kleer" will give a really nice paInted on look and protect the transfer (albeit that properly applied Methfix transfers are pretty well permanent in the first place).

 

Absolutely right.  I've just used some HMRS Methfix transfers for the first time, and followed the instructions to the letter, which is what CKPR seems to have done.  I am very impresed with the result - no carrier film at all, probably the best "painted on!" finish I've seen, and it wasn't even on a gloss surface.  They do require patience, though - at least 10 minutes between applying the transfer and finally removing the backing film.

[Enterprisingwestern]

8 hours ago, Torper said:

 

Absolutely right.  I've just used some HMRS Methfix transfers for the first time, and followed the instructions to the letter, which is what CKPR seems to have done.  I am very impresed with the result - no carrier film at all, probably the best "painted on!" finish I've seen, and it wasn't even on a gloss surface.  They do require patience, though - at least 10 minutes between applying the transfer and finally removing the backing film.

 

 I tried them but the crystal meths I was using worked better on me than the transfer!

 

Mike.