N gauge - Dapol easi shunts, are they worth it?

[Leicester Thumper]

I'm preliminarily looking into coupling solutions for my micro ish layout (link in description) so that I can draw up costings etc so that I can budget the later stages of my build. 

 

In an effort to avoid the "hand of god" (or in my case hand of doom as I have a tendency to knock stock over), I thought I'd look into ways of making shunting hands off, so to speak. 

 

I notice that Dapol have the easi shunt system which seems to be very similar to the microtrains style couplings. I have some questions about them to help me in my endeavours.

 

With the easi shunts,  they offer long and short arm couplings. As my layout is a straight end to end, I take it I wouldn't need long arm couplings? my assumption here is that the length has more to do with the curvature of the track? 

 

easi shunts are magnet operated, and my layout will have confined operations. Permanent magnets might cause me an issue. Would it be possible to use simple electro magnets instead to uncouple stock? I would assume it is, but I thought I would ask.

 

are there any other coupling systems that are just as easy to use? Or is  this the best bet?

 

Anyone who uses the easi shunts, how have you got on with them? 

 

Some observations have been added in blue.

 

Many thanks

[woodenhead]

I use them on my layout which is a terminus station.

 

First attempt I went with small neodymium magnets but found it hard to get a good reliable set up going, but when I simply inserted the Dapol magnets between the tracks they've worked perfectly.  Train arrives, loco rear over magnets, little Kadee dance and the loco is released, new loco on the other end or a shunter and a more effective coupling arrangement than expecting one bit of plastic to ride over the other.

 

In terms of shank I've gone with medium arms, your layout might be dead straight but you'll need to consider the size of your points, the shorter they are the smaller the radius and some stock might not like a short to short coupling if you are using sharp radius point.  Trial and error is the way forward.

[Chris M]

I just use electro magnets and staples.

 

 

https://youtu.be/RWfwPZoblzE?si=oKsEKx5DRzAHVU_X

Edited September 25, 2023 by Chris M

[AndyB]

I've used the Peco NR 103 lift arms.

But instead of large rectangular and unsightly magnets placed between the tracks I used small (~2mm) Neodymium magnets buried under the ballast.

A tuft of grass, or other small feature can be used to show where they are. 

It's a bit fiddly setting up but worth a go. 

And not expensive either.

Andy

[Steven B]

You may find you need different lengths as the location of the NEM pocket isn't always where it should be on the model. 

 

They should work with electromagnets. Another options I've seen used is a permanent magnet being moved with a servo - either lowering it or moving to one side of the track. 

 

For alternatives, look for B&B or DG. Both involve some etched brass origami and are a bit harder to fit than just swapping one NEM coupling for another. They are less obtrusive than the Dapol easy shunt (or standard Rapido).

 

 

SB.

[Leicester Thumper]

On 25/09/2023 at 00:55, woodenhead said:

In terms of shank I've gone with medium arms, your layout might be dead straight but you'll need to consider the size of your points, the shorter they are the smaller the radius and some stock might not like a short to short coupling if you are using sharp radius point.  Trial and error is the way forward.

 

That's a point I forgot to consider. Thanks for pointing that out. 

 

On 25/09/2023 at 08:35, Chris M said:

I just use electro magnets and staples.

 

 

https://youtu.be/RWfwPZoblzE?si=oKsEKx5DRzAHVU_X

 

I will have a look when I can afford some time to watch. Thank you

 

On 25/09/2023 at 12:55, AndyB said:

I've used the Peco NR 103 lift arms.

But instead of large rectangular and unsightly magnets placed between the tracks I used small (~2mm) Neodymium magnets buried under the ballast.

A tuft of grass, or other small feature can be used to show where they are. 

It's a bit fiddly setting up but worth a go. 

And not expensive either.

Andy

 

The only downside I see with that, is on the product page itself, it stipulates it cannot be used with sprung couplings? I know that whilst NEM rapido style aren't technically sprung, surely the resistance could be such that it would prevent the arm from functioning? 

 

On 25/09/2023 at 13:18, Steven B said:

They should work with electromagnets. Another options I've seen used is a permanent magnet being moved with a servo - either lowering it or moving to one side of the track. 

 

SB.

 

Funny you said this.... I had a thought that I could have a couple of strategically placed magnet bars mounted in rails underneath the board,  with some thick wire as a handle so I could just c slide the bar to where the stock needed uncoupling..... hmmmm.

[Andy_C]

On 26/09/2023 at 22:55, Leicester Thumper said:

The only downside I see with that, is on the product page itself, it stipulates it cannot be used with sprung couplings?

I just found this out with Revolution Trains tank wagons. Too droopy, and catch point bits. My Dapol wagons fare better. Still experimenting with 2mm magnets v the Dapol ones - which aren’t cheap. 

[woodenhead]

The droopiness impact depends I think where the metal is pointing, too central and more likely to catch or cause a short, the more to the left the less it impacts.

 

I gave up on other magnets and accepted the Dapol ones do the job and I'd rather have reliability over fidelity, although I recognise people with more patience than me have done a better job of placing their little magnets and have them work flawlessly.

[Andy_C]

Has anyone tried cutting the Dapol magnets in 1/2 so they are 17mm long, instead of 34mm?

[rogerdee]

I tried cutting them not a great success, they do work sometimes but not reliable.

 I found it takes a lot of time and patience to get them to work correctly every time and the weight of the wagons or coaches is a factor too. You need enough weight to keep the wagon still while the locomotive uncoupled.