Can you recommend a decent multimeter?

[Harlequin]

33 minutes ago, n9 said:

Thank you!

 

I would have gone for one of the RS models, but those in my price range (including that last one) seemed to be out of stock. So late last night, with necessity almost certainly outweighing sanity, I ordered one of the AstroAI models which after a lot more googling seemed to be quite favourably reviewed as a decent and not overly expensive option. They also happened to be available in my local Amazon, which is always a huge plus.

 

Somewhat muddying my choice though, the AstroAI 6000 cost 50 smackers where I live when in the UK and US it's closer to 30, yet what I assumed to be the better model, the AstroAI 10000, cost 55. Given that small price difference between the two, I opted for latter even though it's still overpriced where I live and I suspect I might regret its sexier but probably less practical design.

 

Do any of you have experience with AstroAI? I suppose I could still return it if you guys think its awful...

 

Never heard of them. The site has plenty of blurb about the UI and the safety but doesn't give much away about the fundamental capabilities. The manual says that it can only measure true RMS up to 1kHz but the DCC signal can be around 9kHz.

 

[n9]

I just googled "best multimeter" and for better or worse, AstroAI came up quite frequently on review sites as a cheap option with a lot of features, along with the usual suspects like Fluke. I'd never heard of them before either.

 

Likely it's naivety, but I'm testing all my track on DC as I lay it. What won't those tests pick up once I plug in my DCC gear?

[Harlequin]

28 minutes ago, n9 said:

I just googled "best multimeter" and for better or worse, AstroAI came up quite frequently on review sites as a cheap option with a lot of features, along with the usual suspects like Fluke. I'd never heard of them before either.

 

Likely it's naivety, but I'm testing all my track on DC as I lay it. What won't those tests pick up once I plug in my DCC gear?

You don't need anything fancy for track laying or for most model railway testing that you'll do.

 

It's just nice to have a meter that gives a meaningful voltage reading of the DCC signal that you can compare with manufacturers specs if you need to.

 

[kevinlms]

2 hours ago, n9 said:

I just googled "best multimeter" and for better or worse, AstroAI came up quite frequently on review sites as a cheap option with a lot of features, along with the usual suspects like Fluke. I'd never heard of them before either.

 

Likely it's naivety, but I'm testing all my track on DC as I lay it. What won't those tests pick up once I plug in my DCC gear?

Model railway work, doesn't normally challenge any multimeter. Accuracy with DCC voltage measurement shouldn't be a major issue. Someone else pointed out earlier that theirs measure too high, but it is consistant. That I suspect is the important part, if it fluctuates around, then it's useless.

As others also stated, the very cheapest multimeters probably lack a couple of useful features, but do the basics.

[melmerby]

3 hours ago, Harlequin said:

The manual says that it can only measure true RMS up to 1kHz

Most True RMS meters seem to be specified so they can measure 400Hz AC supplies accurately.

These used to be quite common supplies on moving vehicles (Ships, planes, trains.), I don't know whether they still are.

[NBL]

I bought my multimeter about 20 years ago from Aldi or Lidl, cost buttons.  Still going strong on the original battery, gives DC and AC readings and has audible continuity.  Ive used it around the house, car, and model railways.

[Jol Wilkinson]

I have had a UNI-T model UT50C digital multimeter for some years and have been very satisfied with it. I believe that model is no longer available but the UT58D looks to have similar facilities. Not cheap but then decent tools never are.

 

Things I would look for include a diode/continuity tester with buzzer, a display Hold button, a built in stand (props the meter up when needed for better viewing) and a sleep function to save the battery.

 

I also find a decent set of silicon covered (and therefore more flexible) leads, including some with various clip connectors, very useful.

 

 

Edited December 16, 2023 by Jol Wilkinson
typo

[Izzy]

I think there is a wide difference between the requirement for a work tool used regularly/on a daily basis and something for occasional hobby use such as here. Having bought a cheap MM from Maplin way back when and found it does all I need I’d suggest you do the same. The £10-15 jobbies. It might be all you need. If not then you will have a benchmark with which to judge getting a better one.

[MichaelE]

I have an Amprobe that has served me well for a couple of years now. Amprobe is Fluke's slightly less expensive line. It does RMS with frequency measuring so it does what I want it to do.

[Il Grifone]

3 hours ago, NBL said:

I bought my multimeter about 20 years ago from Aldi or Lidl, cost buttons.  Still going strong on the original battery, gives DC and AC readings and has audible continuity.  Ive used it around the house, car, and model railways.

 

I'd change the battery! 20 years is pushing your luck and burst batteries can/will leak corrosive crud all over everything!

Our local Chinese emporium has digital meters at €4* including battery. They are good enough for model railway electrics and not the end of the world if you blow them up! I don't think they have audible continuity testing, but a low voltage buzzer will provide that function (or a lamp bulb will serve).

* I have seen the same thing at €10 at their less honest competitors.

Edited December 16, 2023 by Il Grifone

[n9]

3 hours ago, Izzy said:

I think there is a wide difference between the requirement for a work tool used regularly/on a daily basis and something for occasional hobby use such as here. Having bought a cheap MM from Maplin way back when and found it does all I need I’d suggest you do the same. The £10-15 jobbies. It might be all you need. If not then you will have a benchmark with which to judge getting a better one.

Agree with the difference in requirements, but going cheap was what got me here, with mine lasting a year before dying yesterday. I think it's just pot luck with the cheap ones, and sometimes they're worth a pop.

[Torper]

My Hilka analogue meter (currently £8 or so from Amazon) has lasted me for several years and still does everything that I need it to, which admittedly isn't much, being largely confined to continuity and sorting out shorts.  I really couldn't care what the DCC voltage on my small layout is and I understand that you're not going to get an accurate reading of that anyway unless you spend a lot of money on a specialist MM.  I did once buy a digital multimeter that appeared to have many more functions, but it was so complicated that I never got to grips with it and replaced it with the Hilka.

Edited December 16, 2023 by Torper

[spamcan61]

10 hours ago, Torper said:

 I really couldn't care what the DCC voltage on my small layout is and I understand that you're not going to get an accurate reading of that anyway unless you spend a lot of money on a specialist MM. 

As mentioned in a recent similar thread, I use a cheap, as in under 30 quid, oscilloscope for measuring DC or DCC controller output, gives you a much better idea of what's going on. Not something I need to do regularly but handy now and again. I've just upgraded to one of these as it has a built in battery so very portable.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285367662920?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4aHBSGodTHK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CUw97j2zRRy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Edited December 17, 2023 by spamcan61

[Il Grifone]

I think I'll get one of those when I'm next in Airstrip One the UK (January if all goes well). I ordered a cheap 'scope* kit from China before they decided to scrap the zero VAT import allowance. (It was noted that the UK copied this EU imposition despite Breks Brexit.) I have still to put it together (I don't think my eyesight will stand it anymore though - micro circuitry!) I initially kicked mysel for noticing after I'd placed the order that it was available already assembled for only a few pounds more, but soon realised that it wouldn't have been a few pounds more as over the limit and liable to VAT & import duty plus an exorbitant fee for the collection of same.

 

* It's not a lot of help for model railways (unless one indulges in DCC (I don't - I have too many locos to even think of equiping them all) and probably not then, but it would be for my other hobby of Hi-Fi. It might have saved me from the disastrous failure of my Kenwood amplifier which killed a speaker - I never was too keen on direct coupled output stages!

[spamcan61]

My main use for the baby 'scope on DC is checking out the PWM frequency of my random selection of controllers, given that coreless motors and low frequency PWM don't mix well. For less than the price of a new wagon it's a handy if hardly essential tool.

[Barclay]

On 16/12/2023 at 17:33, Il Grifone said:

 

I'd change the battery! 20 years is pushing your luck and burst batteries can/will leak corrosive crud all over everything!

Our local Chinese emporium has digital meters at €4* including battery. They are good enough for model railway electrics and not the end of the world if you blow them up! I don't think they have audible continuity testing, but a low voltage buzzer will provide that function (or a lamp bulb will serve).

* I have seen the same thing at €10 at their less honest competitors.

Years of life left in that! - I have a Casio scientific calculator that I had in 1981 when I started 'O' Level maths, and it's still running on the original AA batteries. Totally agree though that under normal conditions a burst battery can destroy your appliance.

 

As to meters - I have an inexpensive Maplins analogue version that does the job nicely. I do feel that a meter with a pointer is more suitable for our needs than a digital one because it is so easy to spot the quiver of the needle if your new chassis has a slight tight spot.

Edited December 19, 2023 by Barclay

[friscopete]

I  got an analog  Sneider IMT243113  from Amazon .it was fairly cheap and works fine .Better quality than the yellow cheapies

[melmerby]

8 minutes ago, friscopete said:

I  got an analog  Sneider IMT243113  from Amazon .it was fairly cheap and works fine .Better quality than the yellow cheapies

A cheap analog meter is unlikely to be as good as a cheap digital meter as the manufacturing costs are higher.

You can make a cheap digital meter for the cost of just the analog movement.

 

[DLT]

On 15/12/2023 at 21:35, sncf231e said:

An AVOMETER, what else:

Regards

Fred

Ahh, the old faithful Avo.  Had one permanently on my bench when for years.  Sadly none too portable though, not going to bung one in the box for an exhibition.

Always used an anologue meter for modelling purposes, guess its time to move on.

Beware of some of the cheapest models, I've had experience of very poor test wires, that break inside.  Or have things improved?

[DLT]

Do you NEED a full spec meter?  If you are crawling around under and over a layout testing or checking, a Circuit Tester like this might be easier to handle.

Actually I'm not sure if it tests no voltage continuity

Edited December 19, 2023 by DLT

[Il Grifone]

According to one review, it doesn't do continuity.

I'll stick with my €4 meters that do. (I bought another one as I can never find the things!)

[BachelorBoy]

A decent multimeter? 

 

Have you had some bad experiences with indecent multimeters?

 

 

 

[friscopete]

On 19/12/2023 at 09:57, melmerby said:

A cheap analog meter is unlikely to be as good as a cheap digital meter as the manufacturing costs are higher.

You can make a cheap digital meter for the cost of just the analog movement.

 

yeah but it works better and the display hasnt fallen to bits with weird alian symbols so for me it works QED