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Eastwood Town 9F gets weathered...Stage 3


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The 9f looks fantastic. Really really good, amazing for a first, well, second attempt.

I have used the 'real oil' idea before, and I was also pleased with how it looked. however, you have persuaded me to go out and buy some MIG powders.

I look forward to more of your work, and I'm sure that other would also appreciate it if you posted a step by step how to again. I found this extremely useful

I don't suppose you fancy dirtying up a diesel next?

 

As for the blackboard paint, I think that Wilkinsons sell it. Did you have to thin it much to airbrush it on?

 

Cheers

 

Chris

 

 

It's really borderline Chris. I used it straight from the tin without any problems although I would say, it was the consistency of double cream rather than milk. I think it probably should be thinned slightly and I will probably do that next time round.

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I'd heard about the MX630 but this is the first use of one I've seen so bravo.

The size of it certainly has aroused my interest having a number of wee locos to play with ;)

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That's a interesting question Pete and brings me full circle. When I first played around with powders, I felt they definitely needed sealing, but I tried Dullcote over the top and it took away all the variances in shades. I asked the question on the web and the general concensus was not to seal them. To be honest I would rather seal them completely to avoid any deterioration in the finish, so if you have any ideas how it can be done, I'm all ears.

 

I managed to buy half a dozen cans of the original formula Dullcote before they changed it and have experimented. The strange thing is that I have seen some variance in finish. Sometimes it is pure matt and great and others have dried with a sheen. I think it is temperature variation and have read you should warm the can in warm water before spraying. This gives a much finer spray and then a matt finish.

 

Seems to make sense to me, so maybe I'll give that a try.

 

I'd welcome your ideas/suggestions as your own work is a benchmark I want to get near.

 

That's been my experience too, when I try to seal the powders, I loose the subtle shades. That's using a airbrush too, so it isn't a case of bathing the loco in sealant. I'm worried that a helpful hand at the club will leave finger prints; I've noticed that even with greaseless, dry hands, if I handle models that have had powders applied, and no sealant, my fingertips get weathered...

 

There's probably a fine line there somewhere, some sealing, but not enough to really change the character of the powders...

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That's been my experience too, when I try to seal the powders, I loose the subtle shades.

 

Peter, maybe there's a case for applying those shades with slightly less subtlety… or have you tried that, unsucessfully already?

 

This is an intriguing thread and Gordon, I think you're a brave man to attack your Ivatt and 9F straight off!

I think my old non-running Mainline Standard 3 is soon to become a multi-coloured guinea pig!

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