Hayfields Springside Models rebuilds

[hayfield]

 

Yesterday I  stripped the chassis down taking off the wheels and sprung pickups

 

 

The wheels were given a clean and where necessary screw threads oiled

 

 

Initially the wheels were not running smoothly so the bearings had the paint removed from them a quick ream then fettled until the wheels ran smoothly

 

 

The first crankpin / coupling rod fit, OK ish but I think I can make it much better. The crankpin top hat bearings need filing to size, the coupling  rods need finishing off properly and a couple of new crankpin bolts are required as too short

 

Still very happy to date as in the Manning Wardle rebuild I think I have found where the builder had issues and abandoned/got stuck with the build. I think as I am using sprung pickups the running must be spot on before I fit them

[hayfield]

 

A bit of time fettling the coupling rods and fettling the crankpins resulted in a free running chassis

 

Motor also tested and bearings soldered up

[hayfield]

 

I thought I would do a quick test to check the body is not affecting the chassis free rolling, not a problem. But I did notice that the front lower footplate was not level

 

 

The small center solder joint has failed and the outer glue joints are flexing. Easy fix in making a larger solder joint in-between the frames, then remove the outer glued joints and replace with soldered joints.

 

I now need to check all other joints and repair or replace as necessary.

[hayfield]

Manic few days of modelling, Saturday I narrowly avoided disaster when soldering up the front lower footplate to the main footplate. I put on a larger tip but forgot to reduce the temperature to 300c, as soon as the iron touched the solder on the joint it melted too quickly, I took the iron off as soon as I realized.  once the iron cooled to 300c I filled the dip and now have a much stronger joint, took a little while to smooth the slight bump and only casualties were 3 rivets under the front boiler.

 

I also ordered 3 rolling road trucks

 

https://www.flair-rail.co.uk/shop/

 

This morning was little better as I plan to fit the plunger pickups and motor and gears

 

 

I got off to a good start in taking the chassis apart

 

 

But it took me over an hour to find the brass plungers and springs, over the past week I have been tidying up the workbench little by little. This morning I started to look for them, opening every box I could remember opening, as a couple of trays with spares from the job lot I brought. Been out over midday and carried on looking on my return. In a light bulb moment I looked in the 12ba draw and there they were. I have no box for this loco, lesson learned get one. In the meantime use a tray

 

Next job is to fit them and the motor,

 

[hayfield]

 

Pleased so far with the progress, the plunger pickups were cleaned and fitted to the chassis, then wires attached and as per advice in another thread each one was tested for current connectivity. I must ask Graham what make they are.

 

Wheels were fitted with the motor placed on the center driver as per instructions, again I tested the motor turns the middle wheel

 

I have temporally fitted the coupling rods to do a motor test, all is fine.

 

I am now going to read the chassis instructions mainly to see where to join all the wires together, but check all  has been done

 

I must admit all seems fine

 

 

I could not resist to wire up one pair of plunger pickups and see it running

[doilum]

2 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

Pleased so far with the progress, the plunger pickups were cleaned and fitted to the chassis, then wires attached and as per advice in another thread each one was tested for current connectivity. I must ask Graham what make they are.

 

Wheels were fitted with the motor placed on the center driver as per instructions, again I tested the motor turns the middle wheel

 

I have temporally fitted the coupling rods to do a motor test, all is fine.

 

I am now going to read the chassis instructions mainly to see where to join all the wires together, but check all  has been done

 

I must admit all seems fine

 

 

I could not resist to wire up one pair of plunger pickups and see it running

Thinner wire if you can find some!😎

[hayfield]

doilum

 

Thanks for the advice

 

I am going to Alley Pally at the weekend and its on the shopping list, the black wire is much thinner than the red and more flexible

 

As it is the wires are all too long as I have not decided how to join them, they will be much shorter and neater

[doilum]

Don’t forget the shrink wrap!

[hayfield]

40 minutes ago, doilum said:

Don’t forget the shrink wrap!

 

 

I not only have the shrink wrap* but the de-solder (hot air) station to shrink them

 

* Lidl center isle

 

 

[hayfield]

 

Rolling roads in use, I have found that probably as the center wheel is slightly higher than the outer two, the chassis runs better with two trucks. Using an independent motor mount/gearbox  seems to make for better running/easier meshing, but the motor must be held in place/stopped rotating. Thankfully there is a strong wire across the chassis under the motor. I might try some garden plastic coated wire next

[hayfield]

 

The faint hearted may have said a disaster occurred, the plastic worm decided to have a melt down. As it happens not as much of an issue as perhaps feared. I need to phone Graham at Springside as I need a set of steps for this loco and a couple of parts for the 45xx. I told graham of the issue and he said the kit comes with a metal worm not a plastic one !!! Clearly the previous builder had issues building the chassis and one being the meshing of the gears, and replaced the metal gears with this plastic one. Still if nothing else its pushed me into ordering the parts I required

 

I enjoy building models and especially rescuing something that doesn't work. I think this kit has probably cost me less than £40 for the instructions and missing/broken parts, I brought this kit so well its not an issue having to pay a few £'s more especially when you are improving the model

 

I do hope these builds encourage others to have a go, the loco kit second hand market is very popular but do be careful. Unless the listing or seller states the kit is complete do think carefully about its value. This is the third or fourth incomplete Springside kit I have brought, so have a clear idea of the possible costs. Most importantly if the company is still trading and the owner is happy to supply instructions and parts, the kit is much more valuable than one which is discontinued.

 

Southeastern Finecast is another good supplier of parts and instructions. And only base your bid on what you can see.

 

I tend to base my bid on "if its not worth building, how much can I get for the parts "  Have an exit strategy. Don't get carried away

 

On a positive note Jazz of this parish has been extremely helpful in giving me advice on both fitting Slaters crankpins and the fitting of their wheels. its a great hobby we enjoy being in with many very willing to help others. Thanks again Jazz most kind of you  

[doilum]

HAt the risk of stirring up a marmite topic, those of us who have tried 10 ba crankpins probably wouldn’t go back to using the standard Slaters 12ba .

This requires an investment in a set of 10 ba taps and a pinvice capable of holding the Slaters crankpins bush. The taps do not need to be the best quality, mine were around £10 from the bay of E. Of course quality will always pay for itself in the long term. In short, the wheels are re tapped for the larger size and the bush is threaded to become the “nut”. A slim 10 ba washer may be required between the wheel and coupling rod and the bush will be filed to the correct length. The overall final appearance is much improved and valuable clearance gained on locomotives with outside cylinders.

Edited March 13 by doilum

[hayfield]

 

As I need some 12ba washers and 6ba cheese head bolts and nuts to finish this part of the chassis build, I am just tidying up loose ends. In this shot garden wire holds the motor in place, much better than the elastic bands. Runs smooth both ways.

 

 

There was a gouge out of the boiler, which was easier to feel than see. I thin down Grey Squadron filler with Liquid Poly and leave overnight to set hard, this makes a better bond to the main parts

 

 

Sanded down, but still a bit low in 1 place to the feel

 

 

A second application now drying

 

 

Another job to remove then replace the lower rear cab wall as the lower edge could be seen in the doorway. Something which was annoying me.

 

I also think I will attach a flywheel for a bit of delayed action

 

 

First coat of Prussian blue on the cylinders for the Manning Wardle, I think the loco will look better in this shade of darker blue

 

Now as I await parts I will read the body instructions and plans to understand what goes together in each stage and perhaps group the parts into build stages,

 

I am also waiting for a missing part which holds the G bracket of the motion, giving it far more strength 

[hayfield]

Tonight's fettling

 

 

The bottom part of the cabs rear wall stuck in place, each cab side are in 2 parts, the joint was soldered from the inside and gap on the outside filled

 

 

Tidied up the blemish on the boiled, now smooth to the touch. The smokebox casting is a bit speckled, so am giving it a light sand to smooth

 

The gap between the cab rear wall and cab floor has been filled with Milliput, now waiting for it to harden to enable me to smooth it. All done whilst watching West Ham

 

 

[LaScala]

Looks awfully familiar!  I also bought a part built (ie messed up) kit and had enough slack to buy missing bits.

 

I have same problem with droopy front footplate.

 

I also had problems with eccentric wheels so replaced with Slaters.

 

Certainly no issue with slipping with that huge chunk of white metal.

 

I do recall that I spent a long time trying to get the safety valve bonnet to sit vertically.

 

The Springside kits have been passed by with mixed media offerings and even RTR for many years, but still make good models IMHO

 

 

Edited March 15 by LaScala
Additional memory

[hayfield]

9 hours ago, LaScala said:

Looks awfully familiar!  I also bought a part built (ie messed up) kit and had enough slack to buy missing bits.

 

I have same problem with droopy front footplate.

 

I also had problems with eccentric wheels so replaced with Slaters.

 

Certainly no issue with slipping with that huge chunk of white metal.

 

I do recall that I spent a long time trying to get the safety valve bonnet to sit vertically.

 

The Springside kits have been passed by with mixed media offerings and even RTR for many years, but still make good models IMHO

 

 

 

Firstly can I say these are super detailed kits with high quality castings. They do differ from 4mm whitemetal kits in the way they are assembled where the main part do not necessarily have joining tabs, and I guess owing to the size of the castings may have to be made in several pieces. Also probably because I have been taking over part built kits not until recently twigged how the instructions work, as you have several A3 pages of schematic diagrams and a few A4 written instructions

 

I brought these two kits 2 years apart, one builder being excellent at soldering, the other very good at assembling using glue. Both builders seemingly struggled with with the chassis. The messed up kit (14xx) which was the first kit I brought had an excellent chassis, but a body build which had to be seen to be believed. I doubt the chassis was built by the same person as the body

 

In my opinion the front footplate must be soldered, all wheels are Slaters. All in all enjoyable kits to build

 

Thanks again for your insight in the build process

[hayfield]

 

I had been looking for the 3 parts which make up 112 (steam brake cylinder and support). then realized it had been built and had the piston rod broken off, as was the crank on part 105 ( brake shaft )

 

 

The first job was to drill out the old piston rod and replace it

 

 

The piston rod made from brass rod and some whitemetal scrap was cut to size for the brake crank

 

 

The parts fitted, the length and size may be incorrect, but under normal circumstances will not be in view

 

 

Painted dirty dull black which is drying matt

 

Another job ticked off

[hayfield]

 

A good visit to Alley Pally yesterday and I was able to obtain all the main items I required. A really good show, with some excellent layouts, plenty of different interests covered, and it was very busy so hopefully financially worth doing. Two disappointments very few traders selling parts and tools, lack of specialist traders. Good to see lots of demonstration stands but I went in that area at lunchtime.  It was nice to get a free BRN mag but the show guide lacked the usual layout descriptions, but as usual both free parking and courtesy bus from carparks. 

 

A big thanks to BRM and I guess the model railway club for an excellent show which was well run and more importantly is well worth going to

 

 

 

Whilst I brought a few more bits these are for the kits in question. Thanks to Squires, H&A Models and those on stand 42 (electrical components where I got some thin and flexible wire for the plunger pickups 10m for £1.50

 

Also you can see a 12ba spinner. Another good find was an 1833 Mishama, unused for £10, I declined the gears and gearbox despite being a name I recognized it had a plastic worm.

[hayfield]

Two of my Springside locos are box-less and as I had a sheet of lightweight 1/8th ply and a bit of 9mm ply. I took them to the workshop and cut them to the required size

 

  Simple but joints were decided on

 

  9 mm bottom had sides and ends pinned and glued to it

 

  The plan was to have the top and top of the front side hinged

 

   Not either been on Amazon or gone to B&Q yet for light weight piano hinges and clip

 

  Clip catch(s) needed on the front

 

All seems OK the inside vertical joints will get some quadrant beading for greater strength. I forgot the exact length measurement and could have been 1/2 to 1" shorter for the 45xx

 

I decided to settle on 4.5" width and depth. I will put foam padding in and go from there, but the width could go down to 3.5" . I have looked at Pannier and 14xx which need a box 9.5" long box 4.5" height is fine, width 4" or 3.5" The sizes for width and depth were based on Springside cardboard kit boxes

Edited March 20 by hayfield

[hayfield]

I have had a bit of a brake on loco building the past two weeks for various reasons, today I have received an email from Springside that my order for the outstanding parts are/will be on their way to me

 

Secondly after meeting a friend demonstrating a layout at Alley Pally I have agreed to print some Templot EM gauge plug track turnouts and chairs using a plan he drew up using Templot.  This threw up a slight redesign to make it plug track compliant (printable) The easier part is printing the track bases, once I have edited the plan and printed the bases, I then have to learn how to set up the chair files then learn how to print them in resin

 

Martin Wynn challenged me to test out plug track in 7mm scale whilst learning/confirming how to do the alterations needed to the EM gauge track plan. 

 

  Given the size of the print bed the turnout needs to be printed in 3 sections.

 

The start of the FDM printing ( base of the turnout)

 

  Nearing the end of the first print

 

 Two of the 3 sections waiting to be spliced together

 

Plug track is in development and is exceptionally good, primarily being developed in 4mm scale, though useable in most scales in various formats. developments are in TT, 2mm and S scale that we know of .  For instance in 2mm scale its all resin printed, larger scales use either FDM printed or laser cut bases and resin printed chairs. Turnouts only fully covered at the moment whilst obtuse chairs are designed, but there are a few work arounds in some cases for diamonds and slips, for those unwilling to wait.

 

The FDM turnout base will cost about £2 to print In 4 mm scale the chairs cost about the same as a turnout base, so perhaps £2 per turnout in 7mm scale, plus 2 and a bit meters of rail. Also I can print off reusable filing jigs to the exact size and or angle required for the Vee and switch rails,

 

Other than finishing off the turnout base I will not be printing chairs for at least 2 weeks

[hayfield]

The missing castings for both locos arrived a couple of weeks ago, the gears for the Manning Wardle arrived earlier this week. We have had family staying plus I have now been asked to do some track 3D printing and assist someone plan their layout in Templot, so my mind has been elsewhere

 

 

First off the missing step has been built and fitted, after this photo I primed the area, so now I need to get the airbrush working

 

Alsi I have replaced both the worm and gear wheel, since the motor mount was set up for the other gear set I now need to mesh these new gears