Hayfields Springside Models rebuilds

[hayfield]

I acquired this Springside loco in a job lot of other 7mm, 0-16.5 & 4mm part built and incomplete kits

 

 

As you can see some of the parts are in the correct box,

 

 

Other boxes (this one of the better ones) had a right mixture of parts which had to be sorted out, this took me about 2.5 weeks

 

It was made easier after I brought 2 Springside sets of instructions. I find Roger very helpful as in the past I have used his services twice before with two other Springside kits I brought s/h with parts missing.

 

 

After a sort out I put the chassis together and fitted it to the part built body

 

 

Most of the cab parts were eventually found, but as you can see what has been built has been put together very well

 

 

 

Here are other parts and what was surprising I was only missing about half a dozen bits, which were duly ordered

 

 

I think the builder got stuck with the meshing of the gears, I completely unassembled the wheels and gave them, the bearings, axles a good clean, then reassembled them in the chassis. The meshing issues were due to excessive movement between the motor mounting plate and the chassis. As you can see large lumps of solder now hold the plate securely with gears meshed.

 

 

 

I could be wrong but I think the builder had issues with meshing so it was put aside and never attended to.

Edited March 7 by hayfield

[hayfield]

 

Not my work, but some very capable soldering especially as some of the castings are so large

 

 

A few bits of filling are required, then I need to decide what I can safely fit whilst the build progresses

 

I unassembled the chassis back a bit to enable me to start the painting, Masking the motor and worm as well as the unfinished cylinders and slide bar supports. The cylinders are short 1 pair of slide which bars have been ordered.

 

I am about to pain the Chassis black so it will have at least a couple of days to harden

[hayfield]

Its been a busy couple of days, but I have read the instructions a couple of times, but the builder seems to have flitted between the chassis and body

 

The main structure of the body is sound, the speed of build will depend on the few bits I have ordered from Springside, but I will carry on until I cannot go any further, I have done a bit of filling and fitted the funnel

 

 

I have also fitted the bottom of the boiler, the previous builder cut this slot in it ? still the boiler hardly visible so not an issue

 

 

The main frames have been painted as have the coupling rods, I have ordered from Slaters new crankpins.

 

Next up are the plunger pickups, the holders are in place. 2 were still fitted but only 1 was working, I have found the missing plungers and springs. Tomorrow hopefully the pickups will be working

[cctransuk]

2 minutes ago, hayfield said:

Its been a busy couple of days, but I have read the instructions a couple of times, but the builder seems to have flitted between the chassis and body

 

The main structure of the body is sound, the speed of build will depend on the few bits I have ordered from Springside, but I will carry on until I cannot go any further, I have done a bit of filling and fitted the funnel

 

 

I have also fitted the bottom of the boiler, the previous builder cut this slot in it ? still the boiler hardly visible so not an issue

 

 

The main frames have been painted as have the coupling rods, I have ordered from Slaters new crankpins.

 

Next up are the plunger pickups, the holders are in place. 2 were still fitted but only 1 was working, I have found the missing plungers and springs. Tomorrow hopefully the pickups will be working

 

I'd STRONGLY advise not using plunger pick-ups; fit some traditional flange or tread wipers instead.

 

I've yet to come across reliable plunger pick-ups.

 

CJI.

[doilum]

Slaters plunger pick ups are by far the most reliable I have used with over 20 kits / scratch builds so far. Only the American system can beat them for reliability.

The secret is to prepare them properly. The plunger must be free to move without friction. The holes in the frames need to be a perfect fit. Too tight and they restrict the movement of the plunger. Too slack and the plunger will bounce around and jam.

The plunger holes need to be positioned carefully to put the plunger in the perfect place on the flange. This especially important if using cast wheels with rim insulation.

The wiring needs to be a light multi core wire that does not impede the free movement of the plunger. The plungers should be seen to “ dance” to any slight eccentricity in the wheel or play in the axle back to back.

if my response appears a little “strong” I apologise as it isn’t my intention to offend. It is important however that someone new to locomotive construction isn’t put off by one prejudiced opinion.

There are occasions when it is not possible to fit plungers, large gearboxes and internal valve gear spring to mind but otherwise, fitted carefully, they have proved most reliable over a long period of time.

Edited February 29 by doilum

[hayfield]

12 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I'd STRONGLY advise not using plunger pick-ups; fit some traditional flange or tread wipers instead.

 

I've yet to come across reliable plunger pick-ups.

 

CJI.

 

CJI

 

Thanks for your wise council and I do agree with you for 4mm scale locos, but I do have a couple of 7mm scale locos which work perfectly with them. Time will tell o my build

[hayfield]

13 minutes ago, doilum said:

Slaters plunger pick ups are by far the most reliable I have used with over 20 kits / scratch builds so far. Only the American system can beat them for reliability.

The secret is to prepare them properly. The plunger must be free to move without friction. The holes in the frames need to be a perfect fit. Too tight and they restrict the movement of the plunger. Too slack and the plunger will bounce around and jam.

The plunger holes need to be positioned carefully to put the plunger in the perfect place on the flange. This especially important if using cast wheels with rim insulation.

The wiring needs to be a light multi core wire that does not impede the free movement of the plunger. The plungers should be seen to “ dance” to any slight eccentricity in the wheel or play in the axle back to back.

if my response appears a little “strong” I apologise as it isn’t my intention to offend. It is important however that someone new to locomotive construction isn’t put off by one prejudiced opinion.

There are occasions when it is not possible to fit plungers, large gearboxes and internal valve gear spring to mind but otherwise, fitted carefully, they have proved most reliable over a long period of time.

 

doilum

 

Thanks for your input and I can find nothing wrong with your posting

 

I have found 3 of the existing plungers and have found a fourth of another make which I have turned down to fit, which mirrors the advice you have given

 

Where can I buy this light multi core wire and what is it called please

[cctransuk]

'Prejudiced opinion' implies negativity not based on experience - my contrary opinion is based on extensive negative experience - albeit in 4mm. scale.

 

CJI.

[doilum]

12 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

doilum

 

Thanks for your input and I can find nothing wrong with your posting

 

I have found 3 of the existing plungers and have found a fourth of another make which I have turned down to fit, which mirrors the advice you have given

 

Where can I buy this light multi core wire and what is it called please

Sadly I don’t know. I just keep boxes of scrap and go fishing for something that meets the requirements. No doubt someone will be able to recommend some commonly found charging cable that will provide what you need.

[doilum]

2 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

'Prejudiced opinion' implies negativity not based on experience - my contrary opinion is based on extensive negative experience - albeit in 4mm. scale.

 

CJI.

I cannot comment on the smaller scales. I moved on when I became dissatisfied with sticking Triang mechanisms into Wills kits. They did work though!

[hayfield]

2 minutes ago, doilum said:

. No doubt someone will be able to recommend some commonly found charging cable that will provide what you need.

 

Now that's a great idea, I have a scrap bag on layout wire which is quite stiff. We usually throw away these softer wire flexes on unwanted/broken appliances. Great call, thanks

[hayfield]

 

This is a case of needing 3 or 4 hands to hold things in place whilst soldering as you need to depress the sprung pickup whilst holding the wire in place and solder at the same time

 

 

All 4 wires attached

 

 

View from the side

 

 

These two boxes hold the parts which I either could not identify to a particular kit* or may belong to other kits or have nothing to do with loco kits. Once the two Springside kits have been built I will I will absorb those parts I wish to keep, and dispose of the others 

 

*  For those not aware I brought a box of various incomplete kits of various scales in an eBay lot

[hayfield]

Since the last post I have test fitted the chassis to the body

 

 

The body fits well and I photo copied the instructions so I have a working set of instructions where I can cross out each section/paragraph, plus scribble notes.

 

However I can now alter my plans as I have received packets from both Springside for the missing parts and new crankpins. Now no excuse for slacking.

 

I must add I have received excellent service from both Springside Models and Slaters Plasticard.

[hayfield]

 

Striped down to wire up, I decided to use Milliput to hold the PCB strips either side of the motor. Then temporarily wire everything up

 

As can be seen wiring done and somehow nothing is shorting out. I now know what needs altering and will be done when I remove the wheels to fit the crankpins

 

 

Thankfully running well on a test piece of track, all be it the wrong way but that is easily resolved. Most importantly it works and all 4 sprung pickups receive power. One issue is the 32mm track gauge, I may opt to 0-MF (31.5mm) but am quite wary of this owing to the lack of side play on kit chassis

Edited March 1 by hayfield

[hayfield]

 

I could not resist putting the body on, it works just about only because its driving on 1 pair of wheels. Now in desperate need for coupling rods

[hayfield]

 

New crank pins fitted, but not cut to length. I think it was a good job I did as the existing crank pin bushes were too thin. Running at medium to fast speed fine, but at very slow speeds a bit jerky. This may be down to pickup wires rubbing on the rear axle, or just needs to be run in

 

I have a feeling as the chassis was part dissembled that there was an issue, certainly with the motor mount not firmly fixed and with at least half a mm slop with the crankpins I doubt if ir was a good runner. Still it now works well except for a very slow crawl 

 

The driver is held in place with double sided tape.

[doilum]

Worth checking that the 12 ba crankpins are absolutely straight and square in the wheel. A tiny misalignment on one wheel will spoil the slow running.

( I belong to the 10 ba conversion camp)

[hayfield]

11 minutes ago, doilum said:

Worth checking that the 12 ba crankpins are absolutely straight and square in the wheel. A tiny misalignment on one wheel will spoil the slow running.

( I belong to the 10 ba conversion camp)

 

Thanks for the tip(s)

[hayfield]

 

I modifies the wiring and used a reamer to remove paint from the coupling and connecting rods, All ran well so I finished the cylinders and slide bars testing as I went. The chassis is now a nice runner. Rear crank pins still need cutting back

 

 

Whilst waiting for glue to set I burnished the body, then fitted the chassis to check it all runs well, which it does

 

The chassis needs brake gear and drain cocks adding

 

Next up the body which is mainly detailing and the cab front. Though I have only 1 step and forgot to add it to the list of missing bits. I will wait till I have finished detailing incase I have missed something else. Plus I need an 0 gauge rolling road

[hayfield]

  A start was made with the chassis detailing

 

  As you can see the brake gear has been fitted, painting will follow soon

 

  The second side has been done

 

 

I have made a start on the final detailing, 3+ weeks on and I still found some more parts which I failed to identify. I am about half way fitting the final body parts, but to make painting easier some parts will be fitted after painting

 

I have found the instructions difficult to both follow. Firstly identifying some parts difficult, though if I had brought the kit new it would have been easier, plus the parts were mixed up with 4 other loco parts, finally the way the diagrams have been drawn also were a bit sketchy. Whilst the instructions refer to diagram numbers, the addition of part numbers rather than names would have helped. That said the quality of parts are outstanding

 

 I do not like the gaps between the cylinder side and ends. So before painting I will fill them

 

I thin Squadron filler with liquid poly and leave it to dry for a day, which ensures the filler goes into the gaps fully and stays in the joint whilst the excess is sanded off. So far I have now only found I forgot to order 1 set of steps. I noticed the gap in the bottom of the smoke box whilst posting, its filled now

 

When all the parts which can be fitted before painting are glued in place, I will prime the body then wait for the air to both warm up and dry, as I will airbrush the main body colour in the shed

 

Whilst not a master piece I am very pleased with the loco and full credit to Springside for a super not so little kit

[hayfield]

  

 

I think with the exception of the left hand cab step everything I want in place is now in place

 

 

Ready for a coat of primer and the un painted chassis parts can have a coat of dirty black

 

 

These parts will be painted and fitted once the loco body has been painted 

[hayfield]

This morning O fitted buffers to the loco, prior to painting

 

 

I have now painted the chassis whilst priming the body

 

 

Not too certain about the finish of the cylinder front and backs and I thing the LNER blue is a bight lighter than I imagined so will revert to plan A using Prussian blue

 

 

Body primed

 

 

Very tempted to paint the backhead, but as the firebox top and sides will be blue I must wait

 

 

I might even be tempted to paint the wheels blue, glad I chose to use buffers.

 

Now a wait until the shed warms up so I can airbrush the body

[hayfield]

The next project is another eBay buy, part built but incomplete and no motor and gears. However as they are now £447 new, I had a big enough leeway to cover most eventualities 

 

 

I brought this loco about 2 years ago, I had a spare motor and gears, and it looked well built. I got it well within my maximum bid and it was from a very reputable seller who I have used quite a few times

 

 

I had what I thought were the expensive parts and after the previous experience buying bits from Grahame at Springside I had a good idea of what it might cost me to obtain what I needed

 

   One thing I like is the Springside cabs, is they are well detailed, the especially the very detailed backheads, just needs a Modelu driver & fireman 

 

  These were the parts with the loco

 

I knew how many parts came which came with the 48xx and whilst not knowing how many I needed until the instructions came,  I brought a set of instructions, made a list of what was missing and ordered them

 

  Missing parts required and supplied by Springside

 

 

 

On the face of it the chassis looked OK

 

   View of the underside

 

But its not until you get the model and strip it down you get an idea of any issues, still the Springside Manning Wardle was the test bench for my building skills and I will just do the same in stripping it down, clean and service the parts as I rebuild it.

 

I may well order a set coupling and connecting rods from Premier, but I want to see how free rolling the chassis is first, plus look at how much clearance between the crankpins and the back of the crosshead

[doilum]

Might be worth checking the wheelbases. Premier are spot on. Was the original kit?

[hayfield]

1 hour ago, doilum said:

Might be worth checking the wheelbases. Premier are spot on. Was the original kit?

 

Doilum

 

Thanks for the heads up, at the moment keeping with the Springside parts