Alan Gibson wheels - it's not you, it's me!

[Jack P]

Hi all,

 

Before I get too far into this, I just want to make it clear that i'm not knocking Colin @ AGW, or the wheels in any way. 

 

I'm confident that i'm the problem here, but i'm just unable to consistently get my AG driving wheels running true and concentric.

I've tried a number of things. 

 

- Chamfered the back of the wheel/axle hole

- Polished the axle with very fine wet and dry, and chamfered the axle ends

- Pressed the wheel onto the axle with multiple gauges to ensure equal distance between inside faces 

- Using plastic shims on the GW wheel press to ensure the outside wheel faces are supported equally

 

I still can't seem to get the results i'm after. Am I missing something really obvious here? 

 

For a bit of extra context, it seems to be the same, regardless of if i'm converting something RTR to EM, or building from scratch. It could be that i'm also putting the crankpins in on an angle, and that's adding to the issue. 

 

What have people done to make these wheels work consistently?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

[Izzy]

I have only ever mounted these wheels on their axles by hand, and I’ve used them since they first arrived, dressing both the axle ends and the wheel bore, and twisting them as the axle is pushed in. This method ensures the axle follows the wheel bore rather than reaming its way in if both are not exactly at right angles to each other. 
 

Bob

[RexAshton]

One thing to check is that you clear the plastic from the boss on the inside face of the wheel where the crankpin head will sit as the pin can twist when it is tightened, slightly twisting the centre of the wheel.

[Siberian Snooper]

I use a GW (George Watts) wheel press, which also sorts out the quartering. See MRJ adverts.

 

 

 

 

[Bucoops]

31 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

I use a GW (George Watts) wheel press, which also sorts out the quartering. See MRJ adverts.

 

 

 

 

 

So does @Jack P 🙂