Soldering - I just can't do it. At all. So how?

[sn]

Help me! please! You can solder a couple of wires up to some track in your sleep. Everyone can. Everyone in the whole world except me can . I can do most other things in railway modelling world, but this......

 

The solder ends up on the wrong side of the iron. Sometimes I get balls of solder forming. Sometime the solder wont run.Most time the solder stays resolutly on the noi of the iron ..I could go on!

 

Do I put solder on the wire first? Do I apply the solder between wire and rail. When do I remove the iron?

 

So many questions. So many many frustrations.

 

I'm obviously doing something basic wrong, but what?

[bertiedog]

You must "tin" the iron tip as it heats up, cleaning the tip as you go, with a damped cloth, or a metal mesh cleaner, wire wool will work, as it gets hot the solder will melt and coat the tip.

• The tinned hot iron is applied to the joint, allow the heat to flow, and then add solder. Try never to carry the solder to the joint on the iron. The tip is only the source of the heat to melt the solder, and get it to run.

• If possible get lead/tin solder to tin the iron, even if you then use lead free to do the work.

• Re-tin the iron regularly during the session. and tin and clean before storage.

Try search for other tips, it should work fine.

 

Stephen.

[sn]

Thanks for the replies. Off to the football now. But will try this out later on when I get back on Shrewsbury Road and will report back!

[meple]

I would suggest the following: After ensuring a clean tinned iron Apply solder to the wire then tin the rail. Bring the tined wire and the tinned area of rail together and apply the iron.

[Gene]

Here are links to 3 short vidos that I think you will find helpful...the first one is the one you really want to watch, its about 7 mins...I had major problems soldering and the first video was what turned things around for me and I'm sure it will for you also...the second and third videos are very useful also but the first is the one you really should watch,

I have no connection to these guys besides being a satisfied customer.

Cheers

Gene

 

 

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/videos-a/144.htm?video=hMr2lhW1fUI&title=Soldering%20Basics

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/videos-a/144.htm?video=s2_gPmK_Bz4&title=Soldering%20With%20Acid%20Based%20Flux

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/videos-a/144.htm?video=4knQPo0BR5Q&title=Soldering%20With%20SuperSafe%20Flux

[Brian]

Hi

I have been soldering electrical connections and to a lesser extent solid metal for nearly 50 years.

I was trained on 'How to solder' when I started work as an apprentice and it has never let me down and stood me in good stead all these years.

So here's my text on 'How to Solder' guide. If you follow it and practice and practice on scrap bits of rail and wire etc and you'll become efficient at the job and not be let down by failed joints etc.

 

The basics of soldering are:- A soldering iron of suitable wattage size and tip for the work being undertaken fitted with a clean bit that’s is first class condition, Rosin cored solder and clean connections. Lets make a start…. For everyday soldering a 25 watt iron with a small to medium sized bit is all that’s required. Larger bits sizes and bigger wattage irons have their place, but not for most electrical joints.

 

To make a good quality soldered joint, heat the iron for at least five minutes. Don’t rush, the irons tip must be up to full temperature. Have to hand a damp, soldering iron's tip cleaning sponge pad. If you own a soldering iron stand its likely it came with a sponge. If not, then cut a piece of ordinary non synthetic sponge and use that. Remember to keep the sponge damp.

Once the iron is hot, wipe the tip onto the sponge to remove all previous oxidisation and old solder residue. Assuming the tip is in a good condition and it must be! Apply a little of the rosin cored solder to the tip.

 

On electrical joints never use solid stick type solder nor most paste or liquid types of flux, as these all contain a mild acid which over a long period of time causes high resistance problems within the soldered joint. Solid solders and liquid acid fluxes are normally the reserve of the solid sheet metal soldering jobs – Loco building, plumbing etc.

If you must use flux for electrical joints in addition to what is inbuilt in the rosin cored solder, then ONLY EVER use a special flux designed for electrical soldered joints. It does not contain any harmful acids.

 

For jointing two or more wires together….With the irons tip coated in liquid solder (wetted) and having previously dry assembled the joint - It must be cleaned too, use a fibre glass pencil or scrape the surfaces of both components clean, unless its freshly stripped wire where the sheathing keeps the surface of the wire nice and clean. Place the wetted irons tip directly onto the connection. Wait a few seconds for the heat of the tip to transfer into the wires and then apply a little more rosin corded solder onto the heated joint, not onto the irons tip. You should see the solder start to melt and flow into and around the joint. Once sufficient solder has been applied to coat the whole joint remove both the iron and corded solder. NOW DO NOT TOUCH or MOVE the joint. Wait at least 10 – 15 seconds after removing the heat to allow the joint to cool and the solder to set. What you should end up with is a solid, clean joint. Sometimes the PVC sheath on the wire/s being soldered will shrink back a little. This is a nuisance at times and is due to A) The wires PVC sheathing having a low temperature range or B ) Too much heat applied to the joint for too long a period of time.

 

Finally, before you go onto solder another joint or you have completely finished and before you disconnect the iron, clean the tip again on the damp sponge. You will get a many years of use from a soldering iron if you keep its tip clean!

 

Soldering wires to the bottom or outside of the rail is the same principle, but here I find pre tinning both the end of the wire and the pre cleaned place on the rail where the wire is to connect to be the best method. Pre clean the rail with the aid of a fibre pencil or other means - file etc. Tin with a little solder, both the place on the rail and the wires end. To Tin, apply a small amount of solder to the clean irons tip, then touch the iron onto the area to be tinned. Solder will flow from the tip onto the area. This should only take approx 1 to 2 seconds. If insufficient solder flows, keep the irons tip in place and feed a little more of the cored solder into the area but normally this isn’t necessary. Remove iron and wipe the tip on the damp sponge. Once every item has been tinned, place the wire end, which if necessary has been pre bent to a small ‘L’ shape, up to the solder on the rail. Apply a little solder to the irons tip and place the iron on top of the wire and lightly press down towards the rail. The hot solder on the irons tip will cause both the wires solder and the rails solder to melt into one. If necessary apply a little more cored solder onto the wire with the iron still in place should there not be enough on the rail to make a solid connection. Carefully remove the iron and ensure the wire maintains in contact with the rail and doesn’t move, waiting for 5 to 10 seconds to allow the soldered joint to cool. The use of a small screwdriver blade or even tweezers to hold the wire in place until the solder solidifies and prevent your fingers burning is an option I often use.

 

The use of crocodile clips or any similar sprung metal clamps fixed onto the rails just either side of the soldering work area are advisable, as these act as ‘mini heat shunts’ and help prevent the rail being overheated away from the soldering area which can, if the heat is allowed to be transmitted along the rail, subsequently causing the plastic sleeper fixings to melt.

 

Don’t forget to wipe the tip on the damp sponge after finishing all the work and before turning off the iron.

 

One thing that I have found for the beginner to soldering, is to obtain a spare scrap piece of track and a piece of wire and practise, practice and practice until you feel comfortable and at easy with soldering.

[Donw]

Some good advice from everyone. Just a few of comments.

The more you do the easier it is, as an apprentice I worked in a main telephone exchange soldering up hundreds of connections every day I was much niftier at it than I am now ( just how often do you wire a layout).

Cleaning the rail is important. Because its harder to do its easy to skimp.

I find it works well if I first apply solder to the rail. Normal tinning is to coat it a thin a possible but in this case a litle extra is better. I then place the wire against the soldered area and apply the iron to the wire as the wire heats up it will heat the solder and then sink into the solder. Jon done. I find this leaves less of a blob.

 

If the wire wants to drop down the hole its in a spot of blue tac can help it stay in place and is easy to remove.

 

Donw

[sn]

Bertie Dog, Dutch Master, Don W, Brian, Gene and Meple (I don't think I've missed anyone!) Many thanks. Having much better success now having studied ALL your advice.

 

 

What a great forum!

 

Thanks again!

[Foulounoux]

Bertie Dog, Dutch Master, Don W, Brian, Gene and Meple (I don't think I've missed anyone!) Many thanks. Having much better success now having studied ALL your advice.

 

 

What a great forum!

 

Thanks again!

 

As a fellow poor solderer thanks also to sn for raising the topic.

 

Colin

[Campaman]

A simple tip which I have picked up (could have been from here) on tinning a new tip is to wrap a length of solder round the tip while the iron is cold before plugging it in, as the iron heats up the solder then melts at just the right time to tin the tip.

 

I also struggled to get going soldering, but having the tip tinned nicely solved most of the problems I was having as without the tip tinned correctly you can not get the heat to transfer and that causes all sorts of problems.

[pauln]

I too could not get soldering right having managed for 40 years without. I fell at the first hurdle since most guides seem to assume you know what "tinning" the soldering iron means (as indeed a couple of the replies here did). Once you've done the key tasks listed here: clean the tip, allow some solder to melt onto the tip and stay there (i.e. you are not aiming to shift this "tinning" to the part to be soldered), get the iron nice and hot and make sure the things you are soldering (e.g. rails) are clean then you will find it an awful lot easier. Obviously practice on some scrap first - bit of wire onto scrap rail maybe. Once you have the confidence that you can do it you'll be away.

 

Good luck.

[Pete the Elaner]

I wonder how many others out there also had issues soldering but were too afraid of sounding silly to ask?

Then were quite pleased when somebody else asked it!

 

Incidentally, solder is 60% tin & tin's chemical symbol is Sn...& sn started this thread!

Well I thought it was quite ironic...

[alcazar]

I was taught to tin both surfaces, then place them together and apply heat. There would be enough solder in the tinning to make the joint 90% of the time, a quick dab was enough for the other 10%

[Crosland]

If you must use flux for electrical joints in addition to what is inbuilt in the rosin cored solder, then ONLY EVER use a special flux designed for electrical soldered joints. It does not contain any harmful acids.

That's only true if the flux is a "no-clean" formulation. Other (designed for electronics) fluxes can cause corrosion and should be washed off.

 

Andrew Crosland

[justin1985]

When I first tried soldering I had exactly the same thing - I just couldn't get the solder to go where it was meant to, or even tin the iron!

 

Then someone gave me some CARRs solder, which worked perfectly straight away! The "bog-standard" lead free solder from Maplins is totally and utterly useless, it just doesn't flow, which means its very hard to tin an iron with it ... and its very difficult to solder without a tinned iron!