Orbit Supertroller.

[CUTLER2579]

I purchased a controller called the "Orbit Supertroller" from Cove Models in Farborough several years ago and very good service has it given.However I dismantled my old layout and disconnected aforesaid controller,now that I want to reconnect it to my new layout I have discovered I do not have the instructions to hand any longer. The wires to the layout go into the first two terminals,but I don't know where to connect the input,which I believe was 12 - 16 volts A.C.

Is there anyone out there who can help me with the information for the correct supply connections Please.

Regards.

[Ben Alder]

Is it a panel or handheld version? I have both on my layout, and can take a look to see what goes where if you let me know.

Richard

[CUTLER2579]

Hello Richard,

thats very kind of you ,its the panel mounted one. I know the output goes to terminals 1&2 but the Input is my problem.

Kind Regards,Derek.

[Ben Alder]

The(16V AC)inputs go into the two terminals at the other end of the terminal strip- the middle two are left empty.

HTH,

Richard

[CUTLER2579]

Hello Richard,

thats very helpful,and as I said before very kind of you.

Thank You very much.

Regards,Derek.

[Moonraking Red]

Many years later.....

I have a stand-alone Supertroller that still seems work well.

 

I am about to wire up a new layout which will incorporate two continuous circuits independently controlled.

 

Looking at the connections on the back, I do not think I can use common return wiring method. I assume the “C” terminal is common to both controllers, and so would cause a short.

 

Can anyone on rmweb confirm this please?

 

 

[Moonraking Red]

In case anyone suggests this is in the wrong forum, I have no idea how to transfer my post to Electrics (non-DCC).

[Frank Sharp]

Moonraking Red,

I have one of these apart at the moment. There is a transformer with two separate windings and two otherwise not connected printed circuit boards. They should therefore run common return without a problem. The terminals marked c are for adding an add on hand controller. I now have two but no wiring diagram, that's why I have the case open. The HCs are quite crude in so far as they handle reversing. There are 12 wires but 8 are paired to  become 4 and that's to handle the two amp output to the reversing switch on the HC, you take power out of the box connections, to the HC reversing switch and back to a new connector and to the track. 

As far as I can see the 4 other wires must go to the AC out and to C C, but as yet I haven't had time to sort out what goes where. Once I've sorted that out I'll put a DPDT relay in the box and a 6 wire connector to a plug and socket on the case, it will be a lot neater. 

The Orbit has a output of two amps, it really needs 16 0.2 wiring not the usual 7 0.2.

 

12th Feb 2022

 

I've now sorted this, so more info which might help someone else. Be wary, I have several of these dual track controllers and they aren't all alike. I have seen a hand controller on Worthpoint that terminates in a DIN connector.

 

On the back of the controller are a set of connectors of the chocolate block screw up type.  Looking at it from the back, starting on the left. First pair are controlled output from the knob at that end. The second pair, black and white are marked CC for the hand controller but read on. Third pair are usually empty. Fourth pair are brown and blue AC from the winding on the transformer that powers the RH end as we look at it from the back. Fifth pair marked CC again black and white are for the hand controller at that end and finally the power out from that end. 

If you have the hand controller that I have, it terminates in wires as I've said above. the paired wires go into the switch on the hand controller, you should be able to work out which come from the power out on the box and which should go back to another connector to feed the track. The black and white wires that come out of the box into the connector connect to the black and white wires going to the hand controller. The brown and  blue are 16 V AC and it doesn't matter which way you connect them to the  hand controller. 

 

If you want a hand controller on each output you will need to go into the box and connect a brown and blue wire for the left hand side. You will need a 1 amp thermal overload. One end of that overload floats, see how it has been done on the existing side. 

 

I've found that I cannot properly turn off the hand control, the motor keeps  running slowly. The circuit  is I think picking up enough voltage by induction to trigger the transistor. The cure is to connect a 1 MEGA OHM resistor between the white and black wires in the hand controller to sink this voltage.

 

I've fitted DPDT relays in the box, driven by another transformer, twin windings 6 volt 3VA total. So all I have on the back now are connectors for the output and two 6 pin sockets into which the hand controllers plug on 6 core 7 0.2 wander leads. As the track power is switched internally by relays I don't have any heavy wire outside the box.

 

Hope this has helped someone

Edited February 12, 2022 by Frank Sharp
new information

[kevinlms]

On 07/01/2022 at 10:58, Frank Sharp said:

Moonraking Red,

I have one of these apart at the moment. There is a transformer with two separate windings and two otherwise not connected printed circuit boards. They should therefore run common return without a problem. The terminals marked c are for adding an add on hand controller. I now have two but no wiring diagram, that's why I have the case open. The HCs are quite crude in so far as they handle reversing. There are 12 wires but 8 are paired to  become 4 and that's to handle the two amp output to the reversing switch on the HC, you take power out of the box connections, to the HC reversing switch and back to a new connector and to the track. 

As far as I can see the 4 other wires must go to the AC out and to C C, but as yet I haven't had time to sort out what goes where. Once I've sorted that out I'll put a DPDT relay in the box and a 6 wire connector to a plug and socket on the case, it will be a lot neater. 

The Orbit has a output of two amps, it really needs 16 0.2 wiring not the usual 7 0.2.

There is an article on connecting up the single version in Railway Modeller for 1992 July. I've never used these controllers, or seen one, but from the diagram.

 

The author has also used the hand held add on, called the HHTROL.

 

For this, the terminal strips on the controller are

1&2 for AC input. A&B for HHTROL terminal strip

3&4 for HHTROL C&D on terminal strip.

5&6 for HHTROL to track E&F on strip.

7&8 for HHTROL to track G&H on HHTROL strip.

 

Author has used an 4 way push button, to apparently make it easier. He has also incorporated Ammeter & Voltmeter into the 4 way switching.

 

Probably a good idea to source this article, if you want the full potential.

 

If you want to use as a simple controller 1&2 for input & 5&6 for the track.

On the dual version, the X's mark the 2 AC inputs, the 2 + & - to the tracks.

The C's are for the Hand held, do not use if you don't have the units.

 

Edit to add

1988 April RM had a review of these controllers.

Edited January 8, 2022 by kevinlms
Wrong Source

[kevinlms]

On 03/04/2021 at 05:21, Moonraking Red said:

Many years later.....

I have a stand-alone Supertroller that still seems work well.

 

I am about to wire up a new layout which will incorporate two continuous circuits independently controlled.

 

Looking at the connections on the back, I do not think I can use common return wiring method. I assume the “C” terminal is common to both controllers, and so would cause a short.

 

Can anyone on rmweb confirm this please?

 

 

Maybe a bit late, but CC is NOT for Common Return, they are for the dedicated Hand Held units.

[Ben Alder]

The MRJ also reviewed this controller when it came out - I'll dig it out at the beginning of the week. I also have the manuals that came with it if anyone wants a copy.