Highlandman Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Thanks for your quest LE. For a freelance model such as 'TACKERS' I have based window position roughly on other warehouses I have seen and worked in. You can see from the picture that the ground floor ceiling height is set at 17ft to allow for larger items and work pieces that a chandler might work on. The ground floor window sills are about 3.5 to 4ft from ground level. The two subsequent floors are only 10ft high with windows about 3ft above the floor. The lower floor height can hold machine shops, storage racking, in fact anything that you might find in a chandlers that does not have an excessive height to it. I am also of the opinion that if it looks right it is right, so don't mess with it. Obviously if i am working to a plan then I stick to the heights shown on that, as in the build of my station building earlier on in the thread which is based on the the one that used to stand at Kingsbridge.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Sorry forgot mention you can find some info on my station building here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lightengine Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Sorry forgot mention you can find some info on my station building here Thanks very much. It's a great build and something similar to what I wanted to attempt as my first build. I can see that I need to get a ruler. I am a great fan of Emmanuel Nouallier's work and have read and seen quite a lot about his productions. There are also some very clever modellers on the US websites. Some that are equal to Emmanuel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Some of you might be wondering about the autocoach I started a little while ago. Well it's still going on but has been on the backburner while I concentrated on the buildings. Tonight I managed to get a bit of paint on the coach chassis and interior. Below are the results of tonight efforts. The paint job on the interior could have been better if the sides could have been seperated from the floor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 One question I do have is about the windows. I have in stock SE Finecasts windows set for the autocoach but I have since found out that Shawplan have released autocoach windows in their Laserglaze range. Does anyone have experience of these windows and would they give a better finish than the Finecast ones? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold nickwood Posted April 30, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 30, 2015 One question I do have is about the windows. I have in stock SE Finecasts windows set for the autocoach but I have since found out that Shawplan have released autocoach windows in their Laserglaze range. Does anyone have experience of these windows and would they give a better finish than the Finecast ones? Hi Andy When I detailed my Autocoach I wasn't very active on RMweb and didn't start a thread on it although I did document it on Model Rail Group. I started with the intention of using SEF but ended up using Laserglaze which to me look far superior. A little fettling was required with some panes as I recall and they were fixed with Klear. The other advantage with laserglaze is that you can put the old glazing back in behind which greatly strengthens the body. Before and after shots below. Hope this helps Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Many thanks for that info Nick. It looks like it will have to be Laserglaze then. ExpoEM is coming soon so a trip to Bracknell is on the cards to get some windows. I might get some for the B-set as well so that Ivan I can make a start on that as well. [Edited to change stupid iPhone predictive text error] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold nickwood Posted April 30, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 30, 2015 Andy Do me a favour please. While you are talking to Shawplan at ExpoEM ask him what plans he has for doing the glazing for the Lima / Hornby diesel railcar. I've been asking him on and off for about 4 years and he always says it is coming soon but it never does. If he thinks there is more interest then it may eventually happen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Andy Do me a favour please. While you are talking to Shawplan at ExpoEM ask him what plans he has for doing the glazing for the Lima / Hornby diesel railcar. I've been asking him on and off for about 4 years and he always says it is coming soon but it never does. If he thinks there is more interest then it may eventually happen. I'll make a note of it in the diary/iPhone and see what he says. That's presuming he's going to be there. I should really check on the EMGS site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 I'll make a note of it in the diary/iPhone and see what he says. That's presuming he's going to be there. I should really check on the EMGS site. Yep!! Just checked the Shawplan site, as traders are not listed on the EMGS site and he is due there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Andy I've had a little play with the Silhouette cutter - on the file you sent me the 'Tackers' wasn't centred above the 'Chandlers' so I've had a quick play around with that. I suspect the chandlers and est18xx are a bit small as they didn't cut well at all, but other factors could be me cutting too deep, too fast or onto a cutting mat (in fact just plain plasticard) into which the lettering has already been cut (from a previous attempt), however I had a workable section of masking tape for the Tackers bit. To remove the cut tape from the sheet I had to add an over strip of Tamiya masking tape to try and keep the letters together, and transferred it all across onto the only thing I had to hand with a bit of texture - one of the laser cut Hamworthy ends. I've used a Tamiya brilliant white stippled on almost dry with an offcut of foam packing - I suspect it needs to be a pale grey for best effect seems like it might work? Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Andy I've had a little play with the Silhouette cutter - on the file you sent me the 'Tackers' wasn't centred above the 'Chandlers' so I've had a quick play around with that. I suspect the chandlers and est18xx are a bit small as they didn't cut well at all, but other factors could be me cutting too deep, too fast or onto a cutting mat (in fact just plain plasticard) into which the lettering has already been cut (from a previous attempt), however I had a workable section of masking tape for the Tackers bit. To remove the cut tape from the sheet I had to add an over strip of Tamiya masking tape to try and keep the letters together, and transferred it all across onto the only thing I had to hand with a bit of texture - one of the laser cut Hamworthy ends. I've used a Tamiya brilliant white stippled on almost dry with an offcut of foam packing - I suspect it needs to be a pale grey for best effect tackers001.jpg seems like it might work? Jon That looks quite promising Jon. As you say a pale grey or pale cream to compliment the wood might do. 'TACKERS' looks about the right size. Maybe I should make Chandlers bigger and leave off the Est.18xx . Many thanks for help and the use of your Silhouette. Hopefully see you Sunday. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Meanwhile I have a question for those reading this topic. Hopefully you can answer this without me starting another topic elsewhere. I have just finished spraying the chassis for my autocoach and I am quite pleased with the results having sprayed at about 20psi or so. How do you know true pressure you are working at? If I set the pressure to 20psi then operate the airbrush the pressure needle appears to drop to about 16-15psi. Do I set the pressure with the airbrush running in which case the needle then rises to beyond 20psi when you turn the airbrush off. Any ideas at all? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold nickwood Posted May 1, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2015 Andy The most important setting is the working pressure i.e. that which the compressor will maintain when the airbrush is in use use. The ideal pressure will depend on what type of paint are you spraying. The setting you have is ideal for acrylics but would be better at a working pressure of 25psi for enamels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 The warehouse saga continues but is so near to completion. The above pictures show the chandlers in an almost complete state. I have put the ridge tiles on and these were painted using one of the Vallejo colours. It looks right but can do with some weathering to tone it down a bit. The guttering and downpipes are now on and the annex roof is finished. There is just a bit of touching up on the roof tiles needed and that difficult sign on the gates needs to be put on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 The next job to start is the Harbour Master / Custom House that will block the view to the exit for a future fiddle yard extension. This building is going to sit flush with the harbour wall and have a side entrance to steps so that the officials can access a small launch. The harbour stonework will be incorporated in to the building up to the halfway point and then render from there. I have started to mark out the plasticard but have not cut it out until I can get the large first floor bay looking right. You can see the long oblang marking on the corner that will eventually become the bay window giving the harbour master a good all round view of the harbour. The two doors have been cut out and made up. One is all plasticard the other uses one of Geoff Taylor's fine etches. Below is the start of my attempt to make the bay window. 6 individual frames made up and thay will be joined a a 40deg angle to form the round. Unlike the main building windows, which are sash windows, I think these will be casement windows that can open outwards. The top of the bay will be structurally very sturdy so that can be walked on. Access will be through a trap to flagstaff and small cannon. And here is a very rough sketch of how I think the building will look. The bay is the difficult part for me and I will see if I can complete it with my current modelling skills. Otherwise a re-think might be neccessary. NOT TO SCALE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 I think the bay window just might work. I have opted for sash windows in keeping with the rest of the building and have made six units up. These have now been assembled into the bay unit, minus the glazing and vertical glazing strip, which I will had later. Looking at the pictures and the item on my desk I am pleasantly surprised at the result. The strange little object you can see in a couple of the pictures is a small jig made up from plasticard to a 40 degree angle. This is so I can place a small file at the bottom and, resting the window frame against the jig, file a 40 degree angle onto one side of the window frame. This enable the frames to butt up nice and close as I fix them round the bay. I'll try and get this to nearly finished state and then get started on the main building, checking the fit of the bay as I go along. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 The walls have been cut out and the doors and windows opened out. I have lined the backof each wall with 20thou black card which will eventually give a three ply finish when I put on the stonework. Hopefully in the picture you can see the doors and some of the windows I will be using for this build. Apologies for the quality of the picture as it was taken on my phone because the camera I usually use was not available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60012 Commonwealth of Australia Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Hi Andy, Just finished reading through this thread. Looks absolutely amazing! Keep up the good work! Regards, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 A bit more work done tonight on the harbour master/custom house building. I have clad the lower half of the building in stone that matches the quayside, above this it will be rendered or slate clad. On the quayside face of the building I have inset the brick lintels above the door and windows. On the main entrance front I have cut out the space for the lintels and have also started to inset quoins on the edges of the windows and door. The quoins are individually cut to fit the space as each course of stone is slightly different. When shaping the quoins I bevel each edge slightly to give them a bit of relief. After they are fixed and dried I cut them back to the window edge and slightly round the corner into the reveal. Time consuming but I think it looks rather effective. The picture below give you an idea of what the window will look like with the frame fitted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted May 14, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 14, 2015 You should be proud of this. It is really looking the part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Andy Do me a favour please. While you are talking to Shawplan at ExpoEM ask him what plans he has for doing the glazing for the Lima / Hornby diesel railcar. I've been asking him on and off for about 4 years and he always says it is coming soon but it never does. If he thinks there is more interest then it may eventually happen. I have sent Nick a PM this afternoon while at the show today. When I spoke to Brian earlier today he told me I was about the eighth customer today to ask about the glazing for the diesel railcar and that Shawplan hope to have something ready for Scaleforum later this year. I now believe Brian realises that there is some demand for this model and will try his best to get them ready for September . I will keep my fingers crossed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 You should be proud of this. It is really looking the part. Many thanks for those kind words Chris. The warehouse is only my second attempt at scratchbuilding structures in any scale and I am quite pleased with how it has turned out. I am always open to new suggestions and methods of construction as each has its own merits and uses. I am being a little bit more ambitious for my next build, the harbour master / custom house, in that I wanted a fair sized bay window on the corner with stone base and slate hung walls on two sides. Each time I build something I learn a bit more and make a few more mistakes along the way. This probably explains why it takes me so long, sometimes, to update this Salcombe Harbour topic. One thing I would like to be able to do is make good looking window frames from plasticard, ie. not to chunky and clumsy. I have used etches on some of my buildings and whilst they look very fine and easy to mount I can not always afford to go down this route, especially if I have to have them custom made as I did for my station buildings. I have yet to try scribing stonework on any of my models, be it direct on to plasticard or onto some other surface such as Das clay or some form of filler. Maybe that's a technique for me to try at a later date so that I can broaden the finishes available for my buildings. I really do admire the skills of the Geoff Taylor's, the Dave and Shirley Rowe's and the Geoff Kent's of this world, not forgetting some of the amazing architectural modellers on this forum. They really are an inspiration Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted May 17, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 17, 2015 Andy, You are doing at least two things right, having a go and trying new techniques. You obviously have the skill and with time it can only improve. I started to scratchbuild because I began to do the interiors of buildings and realised if you can do the inside walls then why not the outside? As has been said before elsewhere we do modelling to enjoy it not to entertain a public, although hopefully threads do entertain, and inform but also you get a lot back as well. I am also impressed with the Harbour Masters house. Have you seen a prototype like that, or did you imagine it? If there is not a prototype there should be as it is such an obviously practical design. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlandman Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Andy, I am also impressed with the Harbour Masters house. Have you seen a prototype like that, or did you imagine it? If there is not a prototype there should be as it is such an obviously practical design. Hi Chris, I've looked through my books and can not find a building like it. I think i've taken the best bits of several buildings and imagineered the rest. It just made sense to me that the harbour master / customs office would need a good view of the harbour and by using a wrap around bay window with six foot tall windows for visibility, this need would be met. The intention is to model some form of optics in the window with access to the roof above from inside. Why not make things easy for myself, NOT!!! Watch this space. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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