Salcombe Harbour

[bgman]

Hi Andy,

I've just spent a good hour and a half reading through and I'm have found your work to be of excellent quality, you should be very proud of what you've achieved to date. I'm looking forward to reading more as your time allows.

 

Kind regards

 

And as always, happy modelling

[Highlandman]

A bit more work done on the harbour masters office. I have started to assemble the building sides and stick on the slate tiles on the seaward side.

 

 

The etched sash windows have been sprayed with some Halfords acid etch primer ready for painting.

 

 

I wanted quite a fancy door and surround on this building so took a look at various types on the web. Then went back to the modelling table with some pictures as a guide and knocked up this representation out of plasticard and strip.

 

 

The next two pictures show the partially assembled building with the door frame resting against the wall. I'll fix this on at a later date.

 

 

 

So, I'm quite pleased, so far, with the results. I will continue to put on the slate siding and then paint the window frames. I will paint the building before I fit the frames. Then it's on to sorting out the bay window.

 

Edit: [sorry, I have just seen the pictures and realised I have done a really c**p job of cleaning of the dust from filing, so excuse the mess. It will look better]

[Highlandman]

I've done a bit more work on the harbour master building by adding some sills to the seaward windows and starting on the corner quoins.

 

The sills are made from 1mm x 4mm strip cut to length and rounded at the corners. The 4mm strip is just wide enough to cover a course of stonework.

 

 

 

The quoins are made from individual sections of 1mm x 4mm or 1mm x 3.2mm strip.

 

I cut away a section of the stonework to get the staggered effect I want and depending on the depth of the stone course I shape pieces of strip to fit it.

 

 

I bevel the edges slightly and then file down the thickness to more closely match the thickness of the stone plasticard. This way you can vary how proud from the wall each quoin sits. The file marks can also give a representation of the marks left by working the stone. Below are some pictures of how each quoin is attached.

 

 

 

I cut the quoins over length and then file then back to meet those already stuck on and filed flush with the wall edge.

 

 

 

Once the glue is dried and the plastic has hardened I can then file the quoins back to meet the other face and then round of the corner slightly. I then run a small triangular file along the joints to give them some relief and tidy up the stonework.

 

 

 

I hope this gives you some idea on how I work and I think it gives a reasonable result. It is time consuming and is better done in small batches.

 

The window frames have had a coat of paint put on them. I didn't have a light enough cream so I used Humbrols 103, which is has a more sand colour, and added some white to lighten it. I didn't want to use bright white windows as brilliant white did not really come in to popular use until the mid 50's and 60's. They still need another coat to finish them. Then I can fix them in after I paint the building.

[jonhall]

 

One thing I would like to be able to do is make good looking window frames from plasticard, ie. not to chunky and clumsy. I have used etches on some of my buildings and whilst they look very fine and easy to mount I can not always afford to go down this route, especially if I have to have them custom made as I did for my station buildings.

 

 

Andy,

 

Terry and I had some reasonable success with laser cutting (engraving) the frames into the surface of 0.5mm clear acrylic - by leaving the protective film on when cutting we think it might be possible to spray paint the whole sheet then peel off the protective film leaving clear 'glass' with a painted frame, that has a little bit of relief. I have a couple of the rejects that I can bring to the club to show you.

 

Jon

[Highlandman]

Andy,

 

Terry and I had some reasonable success with laser cutting (engraving) the frames into the surface of 0.5mm clear acrylic - by leaving the protective film on when cutting we think it might be possible to spray paint the whole sheet then peel off the protective film leaving clear 'glass' with a painted frame, that has a little bit of relief. I have a couple of the rejects that I can bring to the club to show you.

 

Jon

 

That sounds like a good idea. I'd be interested in seeing your results. I know it's possible to cut windows as York Model Making do them but they are so expensive.

[Highlandman]

The harbour master building is slowly taking shape. I have finished all the quoins round the windows and the building corners and I'm quite pleased with the result.

 

I have started on the bay windows in the watch room and have slightly changed the design and the way I am fixing them. I have cut out 19mm wide clear plastic and stuck them on a base fitted to the corner of the building. When this was dry I started to clad the bay in 20 thou plasticard and will form the windows this way. The top and bottom of the bay will have a wooden cladding finish.

 

To support the bay I have made three large wooden brackets that fix to the wall underneath. The pictures show the middle one fitted to the corner.

 

Now I've just got to frame out the windows and complete the tile cladding.

 

 

 

 

 

[Removed a/c]

Just had a read through this thread, some very modelling. Looking forward to seeing the progression.

 

 

Regards

Scott 

[Highlandman]

Today I  have mostly been cladding the bay window and doing the window surrounds.


The bay windows have had some shiplap cladding put on and I have raised the top above the flat roof with a castellated wall. These will be framed with thin strip to finish the edges off. The windows are being built up using 0.5mm thick strip, the eventual size of the opening being about 3ft square. I still need to put on a cill and header strip but it's coming on and I'm pleased with the results as I was dreading doing this bay.

 

 

[Highlandman]

I have finished cladding the harbour master office with hanging tiles and started to paint it. Now it has it's initial coat of paint I'm not sure about the colour of the stonework against the tiles and I am now thinking that the lower stone wall should have a painted finish such as cream, pale blue or very light pink.

The pictures below show the building with the entrance porch and door, though these have not yet been glued on. The bay window is also completed ready for painting. Any comments/ideas would help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ChrisN]

Andy,

Cannot really advise on colour except to say I would not have pink.  Pink came from mixing cow dung with whatever they covered the walls with, so it would not be a colour for a stone finish. 

 

You could always 'Google Street View' Devon and find out what might be used.

[Highlandman]

Realising that June was the last time I posted anything on here, I thought it was about time I put something up. I have been finishing off the harbour masters office and I just need to put on the guttering and some signage to complete it.

 

Here are some pictures around the building.

 

 

 

 

 

The picture below shows the top of the chimney stack and shows that the flaunching still needs painting.

 

 

To complete the underneath off the bay I have scribed the base to look like sheet woodwork and then painted using the Lifecolor wood series paints.

 

[Highlandman]

I have also been playing around with the bridge that is just before the fiddle yard entrance and takes the road over the railway and round the back of the warehouses. Because of its higher level the warehouses have exits on other floors to the road. These are just imagined.

 

I have used several materials to build the bridge. The main structure is made from plywood and then covered in plasticard and Das clay. This I have scribed to match the plasticard. I used these two methods as I wanted to see how difficult it was to use Das clay. Based on the result of this I will probably be using this again on future buildings. The arch underneath is finished with Slaters brick plasticard.

 

 

 

 

[Highlandman]

One of the other things I will eventually have to do is paint the track, Peco Code 75, before I ballast is. After visiting Scaleforum this year and talking to one of the demonstrators I have made an attempt to experiment with different finishes on the track.

 

The one below was sprayed with red oxide primer and then painted with art acrylics and Lifecolor washes. I am trying to aim for well used track where some of the timbers have been aged by the sea and sun.

 

 

 

 

 

Seeing how long it has taken me to get this little bit of track to this state I am dreading doing the whole layout.

[Highlandman]

Forgot to mention that the harbour master front door will have a stone porch fitted when it has been placed on the layout. This is so I can put granite setts up to the door and then mount the porch at the correct height

[ChrisN]

Andy,

Looking really good. Particularly like, well everything but the scribing under the octagon is really clever.

[Highlandman]

I have only just realised that i have been really lax in updating this topic, but this year so far has not been the best for modelling mojo. First I lost my mother in March and have been concentrating on clearing her estate and selling the bungalow in Devon. This should have been relatively straight forward and stress free but our solicitor messed some things up and delayed application for probate. Stress led to illness and to be quite honest I just didn't want to do anything, especially modelling.

 

But, recently, I have been taking a little more interest in the layout and my stock. Only taking it easy and doing things when I feel up to it, I have been weathering some of my goods vans, carriages and a loco.

 

I have just finished a Bachmann 57xx as my first proper attempt and I am fairly pleased with the results. I am just taking little steps at the moment but hope to get more and more involved as time goes on.

 

These are the pictures of the loco and I hope to add some more of the other items I've done. Any comments or suggestions are always welcome.

 

 

 

 

[Unicorn1]

That pannier looks splendid Andy. I like the overall effect very much, my black locos seem to only look more black when I weather them - I really must have a go at getting that grey / ash covered look.

I look forward to seeing some more.

Regards

Les

[Highlandman]

That pannier looks splendid Andy. I like the overall effect very much, my black locos seem to only look more black when I weather them - I really must have a go at getting that grey / ash covered look.

I look forward to seeing some more.

Regards

Les

 

Many thanks for the kind comment. i used Lifecolor acrylics Weathered Black and Brake dust mixed in various hues. All was sprayed on using my Iwata TR2 airbrush. After the paint had dried I added some ash effects with grey weathering powders in front of the smoke box and along the top boiler/tank tops. I then airbrushed a little rust around the water fillers. Not a bright garish colour but a more muted subtle tone just giving a hint of the rust to come. The coupling rod joints and the axles where then painted with some Lifecolor Tensacrom Oil to break up the matt finish from the airbrush.

[john flann]

AndyM, very happy to see you posting again and glad you felt up to doing so.

 

I can't say  locos and stock weathered so heavily appeal to me, however you have made a good job of it-and to that extent I can appreciate it but, I can't say I "like" it.

 

Please accept this as an alternative commendation of your efforts.

 

My kindest regards..

[Highlandman]

AndyM, very happy to see you posting again and glad you felt up to doing so.

 

I can't say  locos and stock weathered so heavily appeal to me, however you have made a good job of it-and to that extent I can appreciate it but, I can't say I "like" it.

 

Please accept this as an alternative commendation of your efforts.

 

My kindest regards..

 

Hi John

 

Many thanks for your comments and I can appreciate that the amount of weathering is not up to everyones taste, but I'm glad you like the amount of work that has gone in to it.

 

I must admit I am a little bit proud of myself for how this first proper attempt has turned out. The reason for the heavy weathering is that Salcombe Harbour is set around the end of steam on the Westwern Region and unfortunately a lot of the smaller, less important loco's were not always turned out as immaculately as we would have liked. The weathering on this model was copied from a couple of pictures in Andy J. Small's book Weathered Steam Locomotives - A Modellers Guide to Prototype Weathering.

 

I have been looking at your topics and your area of Dorset seems to be coming along nicely.

 

All the best

 

Andy

[Highlandman]

I have just spent a few more hours at the spraybooth over the last two days with my 2251 class loco. I found a picture on the WarwickshireRailways.com website and thought I would try and replicate the state of the loco. How difficult could that be????

 

Well I've finished and i'll let you be the judges. I think there are some thing i could have done betterbut, overall, I am happy with the result. A care-worn, end of life, loco often seen at the end of steam on the Western Region

 

This is the original picture.

 

 

And here is my attempt.

 

 

 

 

 

[Miss Prism]

Excellent end of life look.

[Andrew P]

A very nice bit of Weathering Andy.

[NHY 581]

Nice work, Andy. Weathering evolves and I find that I am learning all the time. Real coal adds to the contrast as do subtle bits of colour such as spare lamps and fire irons etc.

 

 

Splendid stuff.

 

Rob

[NHY 581]

Any news, Andy?

 

Rob.