for users of Sprat and Winkle couplers?

[pendlerail]

Hi all, I have just recived a oo gauge starter pack for sprat and winkle couplings but the instructions "helpfully" say to wind the wire around a 1mm x 3mm rod, what does everyone else use for this? why don't they provide such a jig?

[Kenton]

I used to use a home made rod made by soldering 3 lengths of 1mm brass rod together flat to form a 3mm x 1mm former - then like most things of this type I lost it.

 

In haste I then simply used a pied of plasticard and found it just as good. The windings are loose anyway and once cut into links you will be doing exceptionally well not to deform them if not then, then after you join and close up the links - that I found to be far too fiddly.

 

After that I discovered you could buy chain and simply cut off 3 link pre-made sets - much easier to fix and no messing - I think it was supplied by MSE or Mainly Trains

 

In the end looks don't matter too much to my eye at a distance as long as they work

[dymstocklr]

In 7mm I used to use 3 link coupling chains - much easier than messing around bending wire!

Bill

[dymstocklr]

ps they do need to be steel obviously!

Bill

[pendlerail]

Thanks for replys folks, am just experimenting at the moment so will probably try the Plasticard method then by chain if I decide to go ahead with fleetwide conversion, Thank Phil

[Flymo748]

Hi all, I have just recived a oo gauge starter pack for sprat and winkle couplings but the instructions "helpfully" say to wind the wire around a 1mm x 3mm rod, what does everyone else use for this? why don't they provide such a jig?

 

I can't answer your second question, but I can answer the first: I made a jig several years ago to mass-/consistently-produce loops.

 

 

It's made from a piece of gash 1/16 brass. Looking at it, probably some scrapped frames from a Jamieson kit (or some frames from a scrapped Jamieson kit...) or similar. The hole and cut-outs have no purpose!

 

The two "pegs" are broken off 1mm drills, and there is another piece of gash brass inbetween as a packing piece. This is essential to stop the two pegs coming slightly in towards each other as you wind on the iron wire.

 

After I've wound 12-15 loops, I use a fine piercing saw blade inserted in the slot to cut them into individual links. Using the saw rather than the end of snips seems just as quick and distorts the links less.

 

HTH

Flymo

 

Edit: forgot attachment!

[John_Hughes]

S&W also make the loops as an extra (lots in a packet), so you can buy them ready-made! I always do!

[dave_long]

Try a bent up staple suitably painted/stained. If its good enough for Chris Nevard its good enough for me. Cement Quay

[James]

Try a bent up staple suitably painted/stained. If its good enough for Chris Nevard its good enough for me. Cement Quay

 

I use staples too - I've used them for about ten years and they are very reliable as it's a piece of p*ss when it comes to consistency!

 

I don't like the use of three links with S&W couplings as it looks decidedly odd to me to see vehicles moving along with both couplings seemingly hanging loose! This is my own preference anyway - for the same reason I don't always fit vac pipes to wagons as they look odd when not connected in what's meant to be a fully fitted train - sometimes the absence of something means people assume all is fine!

 

There's a bit on my blog about S&W couplings.

 

EDIT: I've just followed the link and I said the same thing then almost word for word!

[Derekl]

I used a short length of the supplied wire hooked with a small loop through the hole in the coupler bar, bent double at the bottom at (hopefully) optimum height, so that the end returns upwards for a few millimetres, the idea being that the additional material at the bottom of the loop would help magnetic attraction.

 

I had intended to paint them black or brown, but it turned out that they were virtually invisible, so didn't bother. They worked.

 

The bar across the buffers is far more visually irritating.

[Kenton]

I had intended to paint them black or brown, but it turned out that they were virtually invisible, so didn't bother. They worked.

The bar across the buffers is far more visually irritating.

metal black them both - not paint, which reduces the magnetic attraction.

[James]

The bar across the buffers is far more visually irritating.

 

If you follow my link you'll see I've used Gibson 0,33 mm wire; blacken this and it very hard to see with the naked eye, especially on diesels with lots of buffer beam pipes!

[pendlerail]

thanks for your answers, I have tried the staple and think this is the way forward, what do you suggest for blackening? not something I have done before.

also the magnets will the couplings push things around corners on the delay? I unfortunatly use setrack trackwork at the moment getting ready to place the magnets now

Thanks again, Phil

[DIW]

......... what do you suggest for blackening? .........

 

I use this product for blackening all sorts of underframe gubbins. Seems to work well.

 

Dave

[Kenton]

If using Setrack (pah!@! excuse me ) the you probably should be using the 3mm S&W - the issue is usually buffer locking on the too tight curves. Certainly don't expect to push on delay through a reverse curve. Avoid any curve for magnet placement.

 

Think the placement of the magnets long and hard - it is very easy to place them in the wrong place or to use too many and find your stock self uncouples all over the place. Try the minimum possible to start with. Use the neodynium magnets - they are small and unobtrusive.

[James]

I use this product for blackening all sorts of underframe gubbins. Seems to work well.

 

Birchwood Casey products would get my recommendation too - they are very good imho.