pitbull1845 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Hi, I have sort of decided on a track plan for my new layout, the layout itself is 24' x 2'. And runs along one wall of my workshop. This is the most amount of space I have had for a layout so I am looking forward to cracking on with it. The main part of the layout will have 10 peco points on it and a double slip. Plus those in the fiddle yard. It will be a present day DCC layout consisting of a terminus station, stabling point and a couple of sidings. Whilst staring blankly at the plan (i had it all the track out on the baseboard, not on paper) I thought to myself do I really need point motors? The reason I thought this is for the following. 1.Cost 2. Extra work 3. Its only really going to be operating it, plus a few mates every now and again. There will be no viewing public.. 4. If I operate it from the middle or even better use a long lead I will be able to reach everything. Now I know that ideally point motors would be the best option and to be honest I have some good friends who would help me wire everything up but I suppose I just want to get it up and running and this would be the quickest way. And I'm not that fussed about the hand of god issue. I have seen plenty of layouts that still require a helping hand despite having everything automatic. I would be interested in hearing your views and also wondered how many others have layouts without point motors/wire in tube.. and do you regret not having them.. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I would not like to go back to operating without them - the cost has never been an issue to me as I would rather have the points motorised than splash out on yet another RTR loco or convert to DCC I think with DCC you are going to have more of a problem as it is almost essential that you wire up the frogs on a switch. Of course than can be done wire in tube or direct roding with a switch in-line. So as long as you plan ahead for one day there is actually no need to motorise now. just cut the holes in the baseboard at the center of each tie bar and get it all up and running. Then add the motors when you feel they become important to you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mike Bellamy Posted November 3, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 3, 2009 You could try the Blue Point Turnout Controller. Can be operated with a push rod or by wire in tube. Has an adjustable over centre spring plus all the electrical contacts you need for switching the frog. In a way it's a bit like the 'Tortoise' without the motor. Available from EDM Models http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Track/track.htm#Blue Hope that helps Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Solly Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Having built a layout not quite so long as your proposed 24feet and when built used a mechcanical means of cahnging the points, I would recommend point motors. I rebuilt my train set with point motors and I now sit down at the central control panel and watch the movement not be part of it walking up and down the layout pushing and pulling the point control rods. but then if one does walk up & down to uncouple as a result of shunting or fiddle yard changing, then manually operated points go hand in hand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull1845 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Thanks for the response guys, I shall have a look at the links provided, Ron, I have to agree with you though, I will be walking up and down to uncouple and fiddle.. so it makes sense to change points manually too. I shall have a chat with the chaps on Thursday at our mini club and see what they think. If they are keen I suppose it could be done fairly quickly anyway.. Its certainly given me something to think about. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Current layout using Kadees. I use a bamboo skewer for uncoupling - the other end has a short piece of tube that fits over the "nub" on the tiebar on PECO points - both held together with a length of heat-shrink rubber tube for grip. Reverse the uncoupler - drop it over the nub - throw the turnout. Simple and cost effective. Bought some 3mm cubical magnets yesterday, to experiment with for uncoupling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull1845 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Sounds like a good idea, yet another thing to think about and trial. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Chambers Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Shortliner, I like your idea, simple and straightforward.Do you bother to include any sort of polarity change mechanism? Sorry, Scott, not trying to hijack the thread!! Best wishes, Tim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizmad Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I am currently building a layout using rod in wire on top of the baseboard for the points in the scenic sections, and above baseboard point motors for the storage loops. I have discovered that, having accidentally got adhesive into the rodding and seized it solid, once it is covered with scenery it is just about impossible if you need to replace a point. I just could not get the small right angled end of wire through the hole in the tiebar of the new points because there is not enough play in the wire, so I have ended up having to cut holes for two more point motors, two extra switches etc. I put the rodding above the baseboard in order to save grovelling around underneath it, but in future I would go for point motors every time after this experience. Hope it helps Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull1845 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Hijack away, I don't mind.... As long as there is no ransom.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Chambers Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Ransom? Nah, not between us Darset yokels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted November 4, 2009 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2009 You could try the Blue Point Turnout Controller. Can be operated with a push rod or by wire in tube. Has an adjustable over centre spring plus all the electrical contacts you need for switching the frog. In a way it's a bit like the 'Tortoise' without the motor. Available from EDM Models http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Track/track.htm#Blue Hope that helps Mike They look promising Mike but how do you wire up the points for polarity change using them when you aren't using a point motor ? I've never understood this when using just the points blade for electrical contact . How thick is the wire needed to operate them wire in tube ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Solly Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 This is one method of manual operation & electrical switching http://www.nmra.org....itch_Throw.html I use similar The plastic tube 1/8th takes the wire rod & will be covered as scenery develops. The switch provides electrical contacts. Th e joiner is from terminal strips & allows adjustment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mike Bellamy Posted November 4, 2009 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 4, 2009 They look promising Mike but how do you wire up the points for polarity change using them when you aren't using a point motor ? I've never understood this when using just the points blade for electrical contact . How thick is the wire needed to operate them wire in tube ? A better explanation is available from Bromsgrove Models here http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/pd-252690083.htm?defaultVariants=search0_EQ_Single and they also have a starter set with wire, tube and a mounting plate http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/pd1197115199.htm?categoryId=55 The manufacturers web site is here http://www.newrailmodels.com/BluePoint.htm Hope that helps - although I sell them when I help Paul with his EDM Models trade stand I haven't used them Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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